Amp to door speakers help
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: C-Town
Posts: 82

Okay... Here's my question...
I want to put a 4 channel amp to my door speakers... but from what I understand there is a way to wire it up so you don't have to run the speaker wire to each door speaker.
Is there a way I can send the speaker wire up to the head unit and splice them into the wires for each speaker back there?
If you could explain to me in simple terms, considering I am a noob at this stuff, or send me a link to a site that could help me out that would be ****.
THANK YOU.
I want to put a 4 channel amp to my door speakers... but from what I understand there is a way to wire it up so you don't have to run the speaker wire to each door speaker.
Is there a way I can send the speaker wire up to the head unit and splice them into the wires for each speaker back there?
If you could explain to me in simple terms, considering I am a noob at this stuff, or send me a link to a site that could help me out that would be ****.
THANK YOU.
#2
search +stereo+wiring+diagram
#3
Beginning Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 30

You can but I think you'll lose some signal quality by splicing behind the stereo and having additional run of wires to the amp. I did the opposite to put an aftermarket stero on a monte carlo which has a factory amp in the trunk, I just cut the amp harness and spliced the inputs directly to the output wires. Just think the lengths of the wires are gonna be twice as long doing like this and splice connectors are added resistance so you may not get the maximum level of audio clarity or power. If your blazer doesn't have a factory amp then you can tap right into the wire harness behind the stereo (assuming you have a RCA output to the amp and ARE NOT amplifying FROM the speaker wires AND the speaker wires ARE NOT hooked to the stereo and the amp at the same time with a hi lo converter because then you'll probably fry some electronics)
Last edited by reapher; 11-13-2010 at 07:12 PM.
#4
I've seen it called speedwire, 9 con wire, 9 conductor wire. Not sure what the actual term is
It has 9 wires wrapped inside one outer sheath. One is used for the remote lead and the other 8 work for the 4 pairs for the door speakers. It makes it super easy to run 8-9 wires from an amp in the back up to the HU. I cut the wires on the harness into the HU and attached connectors to everything so if I ever have the amp out, I can just plug the wires back into the harness coming out of the HU
I know Stinger and JL both make it. I bought some from a seller on ebay that was selling for $1per foot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-9-Conductor-1...item2c585b3b2a
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-XB-BLU9...item27b642291d
It has 9 wires wrapped inside one outer sheath. One is used for the remote lead and the other 8 work for the 4 pairs for the door speakers. It makes it super easy to run 8-9 wires from an amp in the back up to the HU. I cut the wires on the harness into the HU and attached connectors to everything so if I ever have the amp out, I can just plug the wires back into the harness coming out of the HU
I know Stinger and JL both make it. I bought some from a seller on ebay that was selling for $1per foot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-9-Conductor-1...item2c585b3b2a
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-XB-BLU9...item27b642291d
#5
Beginning Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 30

I've seen it called speedwire, 9 con wire, 9 conductor wire. Not sure what the actual term is
It has 9 wires wrapped inside one outer sheath. One is used for the remote lead and the other 8 work for the 4 pairs for the door speakers. It makes it super easy to run 8-9 wires from an amp in the back up to the HU. I cut the wires on the harness into the HU and attached connectors to everything so if I ever have the amp out, I can just plug the wires back into the harness coming out of the HU
I know Stinger and JL both make it. I bought some from a seller on ebay that was selling for $1per foot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-9-Conductor-1...item2c585b3b2a
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-XB-BLU9...item27b642291d
It has 9 wires wrapped inside one outer sheath. One is used for the remote lead and the other 8 work for the 4 pairs for the door speakers. It makes it super easy to run 8-9 wires from an amp in the back up to the HU. I cut the wires on the harness into the HU and attached connectors to everything so if I ever have the amp out, I can just plug the wires back into the harness coming out of the HU
I know Stinger and JL both make it. I bought some from a seller on ebay that was selling for $1per foot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-9-Conductor-1...item2c585b3b2a
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-XB-BLU9...item27b642291d
I'd be afraid to use that because you'd have to cut the whole outer sheath off of most of the 20', at least at the point where you have to go in opposite directions to get to either door or front/rear, risk of puncturing the insulation on an inner wire and shorting something
#6
I'd be afraid to use that because you'd have to cut the whole outer sheath off of most of the 20', at least at the point where you have to go in opposite directions to get to either door or front/rear, risk of puncturing the insulation on an inner wire and shorting something 
If you're running straight from the amp to the speakers (which would be the ideal method) then you're correct, it is the wrong cable to use.
In the OP, I think Flip was asking for an easier way to run them. Since all four speakers have wiring that meets up at the HU, you can take advantage of that with the 9con wire. It allows you to run a bundle of wires from the amp back up to the central location where the door speaker wires meet.
It may have excess wiring and extra connections that can increase resistance but it's very simple to use and saves you from having to run wiring through all the doors.
#7
I've seen it called speedwire, 9 con wire, 9 conductor wire. Not sure what the actual term is
It has 9 wires wrapped inside one outer sheath. One is used for the remote lead and the other 8 work for the 4 pairs for the door speakers. It makes it super easy to run 8-9 wires from an amp in the back up to the HU. I cut the wires on the harness into the HU and attached connectors to everything so if I ever have the amp out, I can just plug the wires back into the harness coming out of the HU
I know Stinger and JL both make it. I bought some from a seller on ebay that was selling for $1per foot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-9-Conductor-1...item2c585b3b2a
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-XB-BLU9...item27b642291d
It has 9 wires wrapped inside one outer sheath. One is used for the remote lead and the other 8 work for the 4 pairs for the door speakers. It makes it super easy to run 8-9 wires from an amp in the back up to the HU. I cut the wires on the harness into the HU and attached connectors to everything so if I ever have the amp out, I can just plug the wires back into the harness coming out of the HU
I know Stinger and JL both make it. I bought some from a seller on ebay that was selling for $1per foot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-9-Conductor-1...item2c585b3b2a
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-XB-BLU9...item27b642291d
My dad has this installed in his dodge ram, much cleaner install. I wish I knew where to find it when i installed the 4 channel in the colorado, would have made my life a lot easier!!!
I'd be afraid to use that because you'd have to cut the whole outer sheath off of most of the 20', at least at the point where you have to go in opposite directions to get to either door or front/rear, risk of puncturing the insulation on an inner wire and shorting something 
Yes if he is running top quality components, fresh wiring will make a difference, but for the average consumer who buys basic off the shelf speakers and a low powered amp, you won't really notice much of a difference.. IMO
Last edited by 69chevelle; 11-13-2010 at 08:29 PM.
#8
Beginning Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 30

In the OP, I think Flip was asking for an easier way to run them. Since all four speakers have wiring that meets up at the HU, you can take advantage of that with the 9con wire. It allows you to run a bundle of wires from the amp back up to the central location where the door speaker wires meet.
I'm still not too sure why you would need to cut most of the insulation off when you only need to have the wires seperate at the amp and behind the deck? and why you would have to run it to each door when you are connecting it to the oem speaker wires behind the deck? enlighten me... just teasen, read the first post, he was asking how to do it without having run wires individually
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