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Building sub boxes - help

  #1  
Old 01-05-2014, 10:58 PM
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Default Building sub boxes - help

OK so my dad is going to make the boxes for me, but I have a couple questions first.

The instructions with the subs say for vented/ported enclosures - 1.6 ft3 for "tight bass", and 2.0 ft3 for the "best SPL"... What does this mean? Which should I make? I have limited room and 1.6 sounds better than 2.0 does for the space I have. I would think tight bass over loud muddy bass is what this means.

Also, it gives me port specs, but is it ok if the ports are on a diff side than the sub is? Like can the ports point to the rear or side while the subs aimed forward?

Which way should the subs point? Picture a tractor trailer unit with a sleeper. There is going to be one single 12 box up on EACH sleeper shelf. So the boxes will be in the upper rear corners in the bunk near the roof, which way should the subs fire? I was thinking inward facing subs with forward firing ports... Any better ideas?

My amp is a 1600.2 two channel amp. How should I wire it? I was thinking L&R at 2ohms each (DVC subs)... This should give me 400W per channel at a 2ohm load. Another option is a 1ohm load bridged, this would give me 1600W @ 1ohm... The subs are rated 400W RMS and 800W max.

Im giving the old man the measurements for the enclosures tomorrow and hes gonna make me a design this week.
 
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:00 PM
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You'll hear the Home Hardware truck coming into town!
 
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:43 PM
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1.6 seems a little small, but it depends on the subs. If that's the minimum they recommend then you can use that. Usually the volume is net, so after you take away the space used by the sub and ports. The direction the port and sub face won't make a whole lot of difference in your case. In certain vehicles the way each face can make a big difference in spl. If at all possible try and keep the sub as far from the port as you can. In a pinch this might help you as well.

Wiring the amp to the subs will depend on what impedance the subs are. I know you said DVC, but dual 4, 2, (sounds like dual 4's)? Also if the amp is 1 ohm stable safely or not. This also will help.
 
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:49 PM
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it would be really helpful to know the make and model of the subwoofers as well as the amp. If its not a quality amp 1ohm bridged could kill it or atleast send it into protect.
 
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:08 AM
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:02 PM
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1, that amp is not 1ohm stable, 2 your lucky to be pulling 400w rms out of that amp, BOSS is far from quality. 3. the hifonics are ok (but better then walmart crap). so to run them at 1ohm your going to need a better amp.
Q1-1200D Amplifier
that's a quality amp that is 1ohm stable. because its what I have and im running it at a 1ohm load. never gets warm.
 
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Old 01-06-2014, 05:31 PM
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I would run the subs at 2ohm per channel.
 
  #8  
Old 01-14-2014, 08:12 PM
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Yeah then Ill put em at 2 ohms I suppose. BOSS stuff will be good enough for me. This aint some competition system, its just boom for my work truck. The Hiphonics subs should be fine, they are made by Maxxsonics - the same company that makes MBQuart speakers - which are very high quality.

Got the box specs. Gonna go with sealed boxes, 1.25 ft3 each. Measurements are 14" high, 16.25" wide and whatever legnth (12" approx) to make the volume right. Dad figured it all out and gave me a spec sheet to make the cuts on the 3/4MDF that I got a sheet of. We are gonna make the boxes in a couple weeks when I dont have my kids on the weekend. Dads a carpenter (retired) so it will be much better than if I try and do it myself... So the boxes wont even take up half of my rear shelves and will leave me with tons of room to put my suitcase and food baskets up on the shelves still, which is what I was hoping for. Bunk shelf space is at a premium in an International 9900ix The gap between the shelf, and the upper console is exactly 14 inches plus a ***** hair, so 14" is the max height of the box. 16.25" is the width of the dropped inside of the shelf, and its about a meter long. The subs are going to go on the front side, which is the side the amp in the photo is on. The new amp will go on the back of the passenger side box, so its out of sight, out of mind for the mechanics to complain about. I will drape some blankets over the boxes, and nobody but me needs to know they are in there. They used to bitch that I had subs in my old truck cause I left it cranked when I shut the truck off so it would startle them when they went to service the truck. LOL

Best part about putting a stereo in a big rig - I have FOUR batteries, each with 1600CCA deep cycle. So there is no shortage of power no matter what amps I use.

There is a shelf like this on each side, those are 10s in the picture.

Yes I know thats am RF Punch 800 amp, and yes I know it probably kick the patootey out of my BOSS amp, but I gave it to a kid I know to power his 12s in trade for some RC car parts.


And this is the truck that its all going in... Well, not this one, this is #300 that that Winnipeg Motor Express driver wrote off a while back, now I have #329 which is exactly the same.
 
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Last edited by ohsofly; 01-14-2014 at 08:21 PM.
  #9  
Old 01-17-2014, 12:07 PM
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I bought 2 of the HiFonics HFX12D4 and let me tell you they hit hard! I have them wired to 1 ohm to a Sony Xplod ZZR3301 amp that has 300 @4 ohm 660 at 2 ohm and 1200 at 1 ohm. I dont know which would be better to run both subs together in a parallel run or separately each subs to its own channel? But the way I have them run in parallel + to + on one sub to + to + on the other sub to the amp then - to - to - to - to the amp or putting each sub to its own channel?

2 subs for $50 that hit hard GR8 buy!!

Oh I also have them in a ported box tuned to 32 htz and 6 ft3.

Hope this helps.
 
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