Awesome, Stinger wire is decent wire and there's nothing wrong with a local hookup. Good going.


Deka and XS Power are both battery brands and both models that I used are AGM batteries. AGM batteries are favorable for car audio use due to the high reserve capacity like a deep cycle. They also have a lower internal resistance than a standard flooded cell lead acid battery which allows for faster and higher bursts of current output and chrage cycles.

I've never heard anyone refer to the wattage output of an alternator before, it's not really relevant. For arguments sake though 12V*250A=3000W, just so it's out there. As for the size, the HO alternator is a "large case" alternator, just the same as an AD244. Those are used in other GM trucks and are rated and capable of more current output than the CS130 alternators that come with our trucks. The good news is they bolt up and plug in exactly the same and only require a belt that's 1" longer to make it around the slightly raised pully.


Here's a picture of my stock 105A CS130 case alternator next to the new Singer AD244 case 250A High Output alternator that I replaced it with.

 

Alright thanks ill look into gettin a agm battery if a guy was gonna only buy 1 for his engine bay what would u recommend?

Also amps is what i mean lol fail, so use to watts cause of sound system audio sorry. How much did the aftermarket alt cost you?

 

I'm sorry I didn't answer this sooner, the relevance of the questions totally eluded me.

The XS Power batteries are expensive as are most others that are advertised for car audio use. The Deka Intimidator series are a little more budget friendly and Sears had their Die-Hard Platinum batteries (which are just rebadged Dekas) on sale here recently and may still be on sale. The best recommendation is to buy the biggest one that will fit in the battery location and in your budget. Then do the Big 3 and get a volt meter. Wire the voltmeter directly to the terminals of the amp and monitor your voltage drop. If it's bad enough you may need a high output alternator but there's plenty of other things to check and verify before recommending a high dollar item like that. I think I paid $350 for the Singer that I've got. He has different sizes available and one like a 200A will obviously be cheaper than my 250A or the 350A that's also available.

 

Alright thanks for in the info ill look into a better battery already have a capacitor so with a battery i should be good. and i already have a volt meter in my dash cluster

 

You may as well sell the capacitor to a friend. They do absolutely nothing to help in a car audio application. If the conditions are right they'll actually make things worse.

Also the factory volt meter gauge in the dash isn't enough. The reason a voltmeter should be directly attached to the amp power terminals is because you want to see what the voltage is doing right at that point. Different ground points, the fact it's a high current drain point make it possible to have voltage drop there hat can't be seen as quickly on the gauge in the dash. If you're planning on running anywhere near the ragged edge it's a small price to pay to keep from burning up an amp or blowing a sub.

 

I no some ppl are against capacitors but i definitely can tell the difference when its drained or not hooked up it just gives u continuous power, now with your application it wouldn't help cause your extra battery is essentially a huge capacitor, but with my system on stock battery and alternator all i got is the capacitor.

 

Really, unless you have other issues, it's your mind playing tricks on you. If there is any measurable difference then you have problems with some power or ground connection problems. There's an excellent thread that is stickied at the top of this section that explains in fantastic detail how and why capacitors do not work for this application. There's plenty more available around the internet as well.

Also, a capacitor is definitely not a "continuous" power source, it's not a power source at all. All a cap can do is store a small charge of electricity. It has to be constantly charged by the same electrical system that runs everything else in your vehicle.

 

A Cap will power ur amp along with the battery so if theres a sudden draw of power it will draw from the cap and battery. Trust me they work now as form long term power output they wont help but help to keep a continuous power supply.

FYI some people are very biased im not saying caps are super batterys or anything but they help in certain applications like my low powered 1000wrms stock battery stock alternator application.

 

Alton is right here. That is all caps are (in every electrical situation) just something that stores a small charge.
They really do not work. Your mind is playing tricks on you, sorry to say

 

im not gonna argue with u guys obviously u watched that biased amperage "test" out on youtube that clearly wasnt accurate.