How to install PAC steering wheel controls
#1
How to install PAC steering wheel controls
Hello,
I today installed the PAC SWI-X universal wheel interface that allows me to use my steering wheel controls with my aftermarket JVC stereo.
Follow along... I took a few pictures...
I took a lot of how to remove the dash, but that was covered really nice in the thread below.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/article-submissions-discussions-47/98-05-s-series-radio-removal-how-discussion-11286/
I wont take away from that well done thread. We will pick up from there...
This is the meat and potatoes of the system. Thankfully, we have one of the easiest installs that they have. No resistors needed. In fact, the two looped wires remain, the red, black and green stay too. the rest you may cut short. You wont be using these. Bear in mind that this applies for my Blazer, which is a 2001 LT. The instructions included are very well written, so you will have no issue.
This is what you will see when the radio is gone. Don't worry, its not as bad as it looks.
This is the main radio plug. I decided to wire into this on instead of that half that goes to the radio. In the even I ever change the radio, there wont be any more work to do. I am holding the blue wire, which was located on PIN 14 on the plug. This wire could be one of three colors...Mine was blue. This wire will be snipped. Be sure to leave room to splice!
All snipped and ready to go!
The next wire that I hooked up was the switched power. It threw me for a little loop because I was expecting red. Not on my harness, it was green. I simply splice the red into it. At the same time, I also spliced into the ground. It was what I expected...Black.
Plug it in and lay it there in the console, like I did, and turn your key on, but don't start. The LED's should come on for a few seconds.
I decided to mount my IR LED in the center console. I tried fishing the thing up through the console, then decided to simply remove it.
There are four 10mm nuts that hold the console in. Mine were only hand tight. All I did was simply slide the console and ran the wire. Piece of cake!
Here it is all mounted. I chose to make it off center a bit because I drive and lean on the armrest, and sometimes my hand rests in the center. I figured I would not be blocking anything there.
I installed the unit in the ashtray. I don't smoke, so I figured it would be easy to get to in there, and once you remove the tray part, it fits right in.
Here is the test...Hit the volume up button on the steering wheel, and as you can see, the radio is responding. Success!
Of course, the unit does need programmed, but that took all of 5 minutes, and that was because I re-read things 3 times. All the functions work great! Do NOT try to program it with the engine running! Just accessory only. It will jack up your volume otherwise because of alternator interference. Once programmed, no issues with that.
By the way, as long as the unit is all plugged it, it seems to retain the programming. However, if you remove the white plug from it, you will lose the programming. I can't explain that, I just know it does...
all in all, I am please with the results, and it was much easier to do than I figured...Plus, it only cost me 30 bucks on E-Bay.
Shawn
I today installed the PAC SWI-X universal wheel interface that allows me to use my steering wheel controls with my aftermarket JVC stereo.
Follow along... I took a few pictures...
I took a lot of how to remove the dash, but that was covered really nice in the thread below.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/article-submissions-discussions-47/98-05-s-series-radio-removal-how-discussion-11286/
I wont take away from that well done thread. We will pick up from there...
This is the meat and potatoes of the system. Thankfully, we have one of the easiest installs that they have. No resistors needed. In fact, the two looped wires remain, the red, black and green stay too. the rest you may cut short. You wont be using these. Bear in mind that this applies for my Blazer, which is a 2001 LT. The instructions included are very well written, so you will have no issue.
This is what you will see when the radio is gone. Don't worry, its not as bad as it looks.
This is the main radio plug. I decided to wire into this on instead of that half that goes to the radio. In the even I ever change the radio, there wont be any more work to do. I am holding the blue wire, which was located on PIN 14 on the plug. This wire could be one of three colors...Mine was blue. This wire will be snipped. Be sure to leave room to splice!
All snipped and ready to go!
The next wire that I hooked up was the switched power. It threw me for a little loop because I was expecting red. Not on my harness, it was green. I simply splice the red into it. At the same time, I also spliced into the ground. It was what I expected...Black.
Plug it in and lay it there in the console, like I did, and turn your key on, but don't start. The LED's should come on for a few seconds.
I decided to mount my IR LED in the center console. I tried fishing the thing up through the console, then decided to simply remove it.
There are four 10mm nuts that hold the console in. Mine were only hand tight. All I did was simply slide the console and ran the wire. Piece of cake!
Here it is all mounted. I chose to make it off center a bit because I drive and lean on the armrest, and sometimes my hand rests in the center. I figured I would not be blocking anything there.
I installed the unit in the ashtray. I don't smoke, so I figured it would be easy to get to in there, and once you remove the tray part, it fits right in.
Here is the test...Hit the volume up button on the steering wheel, and as you can see, the radio is responding. Success!
Of course, the unit does need programmed, but that took all of 5 minutes, and that was because I re-read things 3 times. All the functions work great! Do NOT try to program it with the engine running! Just accessory only. It will jack up your volume otherwise because of alternator interference. Once programmed, no issues with that.
By the way, as long as the unit is all plugged it, it seems to retain the programming. However, if you remove the white plug from it, you will lose the programming. I can't explain that, I just know it does...
all in all, I am please with the results, and it was much easier to do than I figured...Plus, it only cost me 30 bucks on E-Bay.
Shawn
Last edited by 01BlackBlazer; 05-15-2010 at 09:20 PM.
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