I try not to ask for help if I can avoid it but I can't seem to fix this problem. I've been fightin this ordeal for about three monthes and can't seem to trace the problem.

I recently got rid of my old headunit and got a new one. The old one was having problems with the cd rollers and I was just ready for a new one. Also I started getting alt. noise and the noise of the cd lazer moving and something like the cd disk spinning. I figured it was the headunit and replaced it.

It's been about two weeks and the f*****g noises are back. No music comin' through the subs. Just a whine that raises and lowers with the rpms of the engine. The noise of the cd lazer moving. And a steady noise almost like the motor that spins the cd. I have;
Replaced the headunit, redid the sub amps ground wire and location, did the big 3 upgrade.
Nothing has quelched this problem. It went away when I switched decks but like a ex girlfriend it has reared it's ugly head just when I thought i was safe.

How would one go about ending this madness? I have heard to not ground the headunit through the wiring harness and ground it like the amp. The inside of the dash near the radio seems like mostly plastic. Where could I ground it? Some say to ground it to the radio itself or to the case it fits into. With a ring terminal on the wire, how could I connect it to the headunit case or the din sleeve? I've been into car audio since I was seven and been activily installing since I was 16 and have never had a problem like this.

Oh btw, I have had alternator whine in other vehicles where the power and ground was ran down the same side of the vehicle. In the blazer they are on seperate sides so Ive ruled that out. Also the noise just started out of the blue about 2-3 monthes ago and the wiring in this truck has been in since 07. I appriciate taking the time to read this and thanks for any help that can be offered.

Regards,
Joshua. (lmfao! )

 

Am I the only one? lol I'm gonna try to ground the RCA cables this weekend. Or maybe replace the cables. I'm hoping that it's not the RCA hookups on the amp. I can't afford another 1500-3000 watt amp. Well I could but I'd have to dip into my paint/bodywork fund agian.

 

Have you tried different RCAs? they may have gone bad. Are the RCAs run near any power wires? If so, try seperating them.

 

Remove your battery connections. Clean them extremely well. Reinstall and make sure they're tight. Ask me how I know.

 

No the RCAs are ran on the drivers side and the power is ran down the passengers side. Learned that lesson with my first car. It almost has to be something with the RCAs because it's only my subs that are doing it. My door speakers are crystal clear and no noise at all. I'm gonna hook up my mp3 player with a chord that has a headphone jack on one end and RCA connections on the other and see what happens.

Good suggestion on the battery terminals. But when I did the big 3 over the weekend I cleaned them very well. Although I might check where I grounded the two ground wires and make sure they are staying tight and make sure the mounting surface is as clean as I can get it. I'll be sure to post my results tomarrow. Thanks for the replies. I always like to get the input of others, incase I might have over looked something or not checked the right things.

 

Well it's not looking good. I used my RCA/headphone wire and plugged my iPhone directly to the amp. Got nothing but a slight hum/feedback noise. Gain is all the way down, same settings when hooked up to the cd player. Plus the normal suttle "thud" when I turn the cd player off, was a noticably louder thump with the iPhone hooked up.

I'm eating now, tacos rule! lol. But when I get done I'm gonna hook my moms California profile amp up in my truck and see what happens. If it plays great and I have to get a new amp, Ima cry... Ha ha. I'll post what happens. I'd hate to think I'm gonna have to dip into my paint stash agian... I just now got it paid back from a sidemarker light not working/re greasing the entire front suspension from my local shop.

 

have you checked to make sure you have a good ground? that the wiring from the amp to sub is connected well, that the end of the power/ground wires are clean and not messed up (can't think of the word i want to say), simple stuff that even installers around me overlook when it happens

 

Well I think I have came to a conclusion.
Besides what I had done in the last post, I;
ran a set of rcas from my stereo to another amp in another car. And the music from my stereo came through that amp which is powered by another car. Then I completly unhooked the other amp and wired it in my truck, And the sound was perfect.

So unless I'm getting freak shorts or something through my amp, my amp is fried. Which I only had $150 in. It was I think 8-10 years old, and it's hard to tell the punishment it was put through before I got it. Also it made a slight high pitched noise that would fluxuate with the bass hits. I hate the thought of putting out for a new amp, but oh well

It's still odd that my old cd player made this noise, then when I replaced the cd player it
went away for two weeks then came back. But it has to be the amp, other wise the other amp wouldn't have worked first try when my other amp wouldn't. But thanks for the help. I'm gonna go watch some car audio vids, look up new amps and cry. lol


UPDATE: I think I found my new amp. (Probley gonna get flammed for this from the audio guys...) But oh well, I've always been a anti bandwagon kind of person.
To match the two Lanzar MAXPRO 15 inch subs I'm currently running, (That took that RF punch 1000.1bd at one ohm and didn't break a sweat) I found the Lanzar Optidrive OPTI2000D, refurbished with a 2 year warrenty for $301.93 on Overstock.com. Refurbished offsite, with shipping. 0.5 ohm stable and seem like great amps, talked to a few people that ran them in daily drivers and liked them. Plus they are strappable so if I go to 4 of these 15's next year or just two better 15's, I can get the powah .

Gonna get that and on Knukonceptz.com I can get a 0/1 gauge amp kit with power, ground, and terminal ends. Plus another 10 foot of 0/1 gauge to redo my big three and another 6 ring terminals shipped for $94.48. So new more powerful amp with 2 year warrenty and redo amp wiring and big three wiring with 0/1 gauge wiring for $396.41 shipped to my door.

This isn't as bad as I thought it was gonna be (knock on wood) and I can get that $$$ from my paint fund and pay it back in time to still save enough spending money to go on the cruise in August. (Already paid for the trip and ticket, just need spending $$$ ) First time out of the country and I'm amped!