Exactly what I'm planning to do with the roof. I'll try and get it buffed and polished. Good to have it in a garage. Saves a lot of things. All internal joints have to be changed - here as well it's the time constraint on what I can do to it when there is time left.

I have to keep it in running condition so I can use it as it is also my trailer tower. Just came back from a short trip 80 miles at 95F. No A/C but temps not too high.
My GF complained about the heat in the passengers foot room so I have to fix that bypass valve I'm planning for years now.

Let's keep going on the Blazers. Good work on your tranny. Hope it will work out.

 

I've gotten a couple more hours of work in the last few days. Slow going since I'm trying to be very careful and check everything multiple times.

Got the Input Drum rebuilt with the new bonded steel pistons, and new forward, overrun, and 3-4 clutches. Took about 6 attempts to get the Input & Revers Input drums back in the case. Kept getting hung up on the last little bit, but finally got it seated.

Installed my new 2-4 band, and the servo to check. Ended up not having enough clearance with the longer Servo Pin. . . drum wouldn't turn. So put the new 2 groove pin back in, then reinstalled. Looking good now. It's crazy how much less travel there is in the servo with the new parts.

Hopefully this afternoon I'll get the pump and valve body reinstalled. . .then it's about ready to go back in.

Just need to get up under the car and pull the 4x4 vacuum lines so I can replace while the transmission is out.

Also I guess this is the first time I've bought Dexron VI. . . man is it pungent. Got Valveoline Max Life, and poured a little(in the garage) to soak the clutches and band. Stunk up the whole house almost instantly. While the smell of ATF brings back memories of working at my family shop, I'll be happy when my house doesn't smell like it anymore.

 

Progress is still slow, but getting there. Had to stop today to go to early dinner for fathers day. No pics either sorry. . .not much to show really.

Worked pretty much all weekend and got the rest of the trans put back together. Got it back in the car yesterday with two bolts to hold it overnight.

I still need to get the transfer case back in and then make sure all the connections are good. Had a bunch of trouble fighting the cooler lines, got one installed but ended up kinking the other. So have some extra work there, that I've created for myself.

Ended up leaving the vacuum lines for the transfer case for now. Just trying to get it back together. Also started to do the rear main seal and it didn't seem to be leaking, and I couldn't get it to come out easily so I left that alone as well. The small leak looks like it's coming from the pan, or oil cooler adapter.

Doubt I'll get anything else done today once we get home, but hopefully just a couple more hours work to finish. . . . then on to more suspension and A/C work.

 

If I properly remember there is a purge procedure for the trans cooler lines. Else you have no oil flow through the radiator.

PM if you need the info.

 

I've always just blown compressed air through the lines to clear them out. Certainly not as good as the solvent flush machine, but works pretty well.

Just going to repair, or repalce the the line I damaged. I also have a new Hayden Cooler to install, so not really too worried about the trans oil cooler in the radiator.

It's so damn hot here that I need to make sure I do everything possible to keep my temps down, so I don't have to do this again any time soon.

 

Getting So close. . Got the transfer case bolted back in last night along with rear driveshaft, and a few other little things. Including a new rear seal, ended up trashing the new trans/transfer case gasket while installing, so hopefully I don't end up having a leak there.

Really just need to install my new oil cooler, and fix the one line. After that just need to top off fluids and get the cross member reinstalled. Shouldn't take too much longer.

Hoping to get all of that done later on this afternoon so I can go for a test drive.

 

I actually like the OEM setup with the trans cooler in the radiator case. So the fan cools everything down. But that is with the trailer package (radiator trans and engine oil heat exchanger in the radiator).

An additional radiator in series could be another way of cooling the tranny even more.

Nice work thou. Get it on the road again!

 

Thats what my stock set up is. . Actually got it mostly back together yesterday with the stock cooler. Wanted to test drive so didn't bother with the new cooler yet, or with putting the front drive shaft back in. I may take that in to the shop for new u-joints.

Took it for a test drive and lo and behold. . 2nd gear. . Came back on topped off the fluid then went out again. Got it up to about 65mph, had all gears and lock up, although I had a couple moment were it shifted weird. Fastest I've had it. . .boy is the steering scary at higher speed. Guess I better get on with my steering work as well.

After a couple miles it seemed like I lost 3rd and 4th, fluid was a bit low when I checked after getting back home. Didn't have any more ATF so I didn't mess with it any more after that.

Was getting some smoke from the exhaust so I think I didn't get one of the cooler lines tight enough. Also wondering if the servo snap ring popped out a bit or something.

Will try to figure out what's going on now later on today. Hoping it's something simple / external since I don't have time to take the trans out again before leaving town next weekend.

 

Well my success was short lived. . .Been messing some more today and confirmed I have no 3rd or 4th gear now. In D and OD it just revs and doesn't move. Will moved forward in Manual 1st and 2nd. I know the band's engaging and actually getting 2nd. Also reverse works fine.

Not sure what my issue is, I topped it off with Fluid again to make sure it wasn't a low fluid issue. The only think I can think of is that the filter seal was loose in the case. I did end up putting gasket sealer around it and let it dry for a while before I put fluid in. Although if the filter fell out it shouldn't move at all.

My code 28 (pressure switch) has gone away, but I'm now getting a code 43 for the knock sensor. Not showing any other codes.

I'm pretty sure I had my 3-4 clutch clearance set up pretty well. . . And I did have all gears for the first couple miles of driving after rebuild. As mentioned above I did air check all 3 clutch packs in the input drum before I put it back together, and all worked properly.

Going to keep looking for solutions, but looking like it's going to have to come back out. So prob won't be able to take on our trip next week, meaning will have to pile everything into my little Audi.

Not happy, but not as pissed of as I would have expected. Pretty much what I expected to happen. Seems like nothing I ever do works as it should.

 

I've been mistaken. Just needs a special proc with the remote oil cooler when "flushing" the core on the radiator. Should work by just filling up to spec.

Just to make sure we are talking:

1994 BLAZER 4.3L V6 with HYDRAMATIC 4L60-E ?
4 WD with electric switch?

How do you read the DTC's

PM me if need be - I've got the manual