2000 Blazer New Project
#71
Got a driverside hub on KSL Classifieds for $30. Brand new out of the box. While putting it in I noticed the half axle had a split boot. Went to shake it to see if it was still holding together and it fell apart in my hand. Made it to Autozone with 1 min to spare before closing and got a new axle. Thew them all together last night. I still need to go to the wrecking yard and find the 70 and 90 am relays from a Taurus for the electric fan, the I can start that project. Almost forgot The 6 year old battery died and had to get another. And lets not forget what I came to walking out of work yesterday.
I went to start the Blazer and it kept turning over, no start. Opened the door to pop the hood and heard splashing. Apparently when I dropped the tank last I didnt get the stupid snap fuel line on all the way and it popped off. This time I used pliers till I heard a click. It was a bad/good day for the blazer. Bad that everything went wrong, good that it now has more new warrantied parts on it.
I went to start the Blazer and it kept turning over, no start. Opened the door to pop the hood and heard splashing. Apparently when I dropped the tank last I didnt get the stupid snap fuel line on all the way and it popped off. This time I used pliers till I heard a click. It was a bad/good day for the blazer. Bad that everything went wrong, good that it now has more new warrantied parts on it.
#73
Transmission went into safe mode. Turns out the solenoid from 1-2 and 2-3 both were bad. I don't touch auto trannies so I had my friend at Complete Automotive & Transmission Specialist | Where Customer Service Matters Go through it. He swapped the solenoids, cleaned the valve body, and I had him throw the bigger tranny pan with a drain plug on there. Then, the ecm was bad, causing the tranny to stay in safe mode, manual shift would work but not auto. Swapped that, reprogrammed the ecm and it was good all except for a slight misfire.
#74
Onto the misfire... Changed out the plugs, cap and rotor, and soon wires. Did a compression test, 130 lbs. all is well there. It first threw a cylinder 3 not cylinder 5 po303 and po 305. I feared I still had the old crap injectors.... after taking off the intake, yup and MAN were they dirty. Ripped out the old ones, and cleaned up the upper and lower intake. Anyway here are some pics of the start of my spi to mpi conversion. Soon as the part arrives I will install it and take some pics. Here is the one I got Anyone recommend something to get in and clean the deeper parts of the intake and the valves?
SUPER Dirty INTAKE
Cleaner
Cleaned
SUPER Dirty INTAKE
Cleaner
Cleaned
Last edited by musclemasterflex; 11-13-2012 at 11:03 AM.
#75
Maybe I could jam a drier brush down in there...
#76
At this point you might be smart to pull the intake and replace the gaskets. Your half way there, so put some Felpro ones on there before it can start leaking coolant all over the place.
#77
Thanks for the post Truk, I ended up doing the lower as well, turns out the previous owner already did it, oh well, I was able to deep clean the intake and tidy up the heads as well. On another note, does anyone know the size of the nuts that retain the fuel lines, I accidentally threw mine away with the old spider.
#78
So I finished getting it all together. Started up a little rough, but smoothed out. Drained the oil, DEFINITELY got coolant in the motor. Added new oil, ran for 5 min, drained again, still has a little water. Gunna add some uv dye to the coolant to make sure there isnt a leak...
#79
#80
So I couldn't find dexmerc compatible uv dye and went another route. With the oil drained and plug out I used a Coolant Pressure Tester ($75 to rent, refunded when returned) from Autozone Heating and Cooling | Loan-A-ToolŽ Program | In Our Stores | AutoZone.com to pressurize the system. YAY! No leaks! Filled it with oil and a new filter again ran it for 5 min and let it sit, undid the plug for a second, no water! (water sinks to the bottom of your pan so it comes out first after you let it settle) It now runs WAY better!