So I haven't updated in a while. Since I have gotten the crank position sensor and the distributor replaced, the oil pressure was reading really low, so I figured I would start with the oil pressure sensor. I bought the special socket and had a heck of a time getting it out anyway. What had happened was that i had it on crooked and I broke the sensor, all that was left was the end of it where it screwed in. So I pulled the distributor out and got a 1 1/16" wrench to get it off.



Once I did that replacing the sensor was simple. However putting the distributor back in was not. I marked the location of the rotor and the location of the rotor when I pulled it out. However, it would not go back in the right place. What happened was that the oil pump shaft somehow got shifted. So I got long Flathead screwdriver and
moved it where it needed to be.

needs to be about 45 degrees counter clockwise

 

Getting the screwdriver on the shaft isn't as easy as I though. i couldn't tell when I was on it because it is on the back of the engine and the screwdriver was in my way. I had to use my camera to see where I was. Once I got it on there it turned very easy, and the distributor when right back in.

 

About a month ago my e fans were staying on all the time and killing my battery. So I pulled the controller box out and found that it was full of water and ice. Here is what I found inside

This was all garbage



The fuse holders only hold up to a 30 amp fuse, which I didn't notice until they partially melted and didn't blow the 40s that I had put in there.




The relays and holders didn't fair any better

 

Wow, glad you caught it before something bad happened

 

me too! So basically i rewired it with new fuse holders, 30 amp fuses, new relays and wiring. I didn't use fuse holders this time. After I put it all back together I sealed it with silicone. The wiring is the same as before.

 

So, when I first got my blazer it had a K&N filter in it and it kept throwing a code for a bad MAF sensor. So I got rid of the K&N and replaced it with a stock filter and cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. I was still having issues which I attributed to the leaky and falling apart stock air box that was never replaced after an accident. So I got a CAI and cleaned it again. Now I haven't gotten the code since but it still just didn't run right since I've had it, especially when it is cold. So I got this MAF Sensor.






I know it looks a lot cheaper than the stock metal one, but it works great. My engine runs better than it ever has.

 

So, I have developed a rod knock so I am replacing my engine. I already orded a used engine with 114k on it. It needs intake gaskets. Should I get new intake bolts with the gasket kit?

 

I replaced my intake manifold gasket back in November. When I was researching the process, a lot of people online said to replace the bolts. I don't remember the Haynes manual saying either way. But, some logical advice I got from a mechanic: the bolts you take out have been torqued and stretched to fit, replacing with new ones may or may not create a leak.

I ended up not replacing the bolts, instead taking a gamble on the old ones, and so far I have had no problems.

Good luck.

 

I heard the same thing, but I figured since they are cheap they may be worth replacing. Thanks for the heads up.

 

I was thinking that since the engine is out that it might be worth it to replace the motor mounts. I checked a bunch of parts stores and websites but I can only find a bunch of brands that I have never heard of. Anchor seems to be a popular brand to sell but from what I am reading they aren't very good. Can anyone recommend a good brand and where to get them?