Beginning to research best parts to use to refurbish suspension and engine beginning the spring of 2021.

Rear main seal leaking and trying to decide the best way to repair? Pull the transmission or pull the engine?

The drivetrain has about 128,000 miles.

Thinking of buying more heavy duty suspension parts. Lots to choose from and looking for any previous experience.

For the engine, wondering if a rebuild or crate engine is more practical? Leave stock or what to upgrade?

Next will be to have the front seats upholstered, paint and wheels.

Planning to keep my blazer and would

Time to invest in keeping it healthy!
like to see what can be done to extend its like for a budget of about $8,000.

 

Thats a nice looking blazer. Nice and clean.

Crate engines aren't that expensive if your looking long term... I did a rebuild on an engine with 250k km on it, and the price of parts was almost half the price of a crate engine(wouldve saved for a crate engine if I had storage space and time). Then there's the labor added if your not doingit, or time if you are(time is money lol).

Since you got a zr2, you got a good start. If your not going aggressive and like the height of it already, then i would suggest just getting upgraded versions on the stock shocks, and see how much a new set of leaf springs are(updated/add-a-leaf).

If your looking for lift kits, theres alot of builds on here with kits installed, easy enough to do as well. I did my 2.5 lift on my 4 door over a weekend in my driveway...

 

Thinking crate is the way to go and appreciate the tips for the suspension!
Thank you!

 

09/24/2023: Ordered parts after comparing prices. Expect to begin the rebuild in a couple of weeks!

Part: Upper LEFT Control Arm
Supplier: MEVOTECH
P/N: CMS20354
Qty: 1

Part: Upper RIGHT Control Arm
Supplier: MEVOTECH
P/N: CMS20355
Qty: 1

Part: Eccentric Cam Bolts - 4WD, Plus or Minus 1-1/8 Degrees (For Upper Control Arms)
Supplier: AC DELCO
P/N: 45K18022
Qty: 4

Part: Lower LEFT Control Arm
Supplier: MOOG
P/N: RK622213
Qty: 1
NOTE: Sway bar bracket correctly located in line with lower shock bracket.

Part: Lower RIGHT Control Arm
Supplier: MOOG
P/N: RK622212
Qty: 1
NOTE: Sway bar bracket correctly located in line with lower shock bracket.

Part: Front Lower Suspension Control Arm Bumper Stop
Supplier: Dorman
P/N: 31064
Qty: 2

Part: Metrix Premium GDX 2 PCS Front Sway Bar Link (2 per order)
Supplier: Metrix
P/N: K700526
Qty: 1

Part: Brake & Wheel Hub: Wheel Bearing & Hub
Supplier: MOOG
P/N: 513124
Qty: 2

Part: Right Front CV Axle with High Rider Package (ZR2)
Supplier: GSP
P/N: NCV10206
Qty: 1

Part: Left Front CV Axle with High Rider Package (ZR2)
Supplier: GSP
P/N: NCV10207
Qty: 1

Part: Idler Arm
Supplier: AC DELCO
P/N: 45C1043
Qty: 1

Part: Pitman Arm
Supplier: AC DELCO
P/N: 45C0039
Qty: 1

Part: Steering Damper - 4WD with OE Steering Damper Magnum
Supplier: MONROE
P/N: SC2937
Qty: 1

Part: Inner Tie Rod End
Supplier: MEVOTECH
P/N: MRS3584
Qty: 2

Part: Outer Tie Rod End
Supplier: MEVOTECH
P/N: MES3462
Qty: 2

Part: Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve 4.72” Length; with 11/16” x 18 threads
Supplier: MOOG
P/N: ES2004S
Qty: 2

Part: Torsion Bar Mount
Supplier: AC DELCO
P/N: 45G31008
Qty: 2

Part: Steering Coupler Disk Kit (rag joint) for 3/4” 26 Spline Input Shaft with 2-3/4” OD Steering Coupling Assembly
Supplier: LARES
P/N: LARES 205
Qty: 1
NOTE: Steering shaft with U-joint option:

• Flaming River, P/N: FR1746DD
• Helix Suspension, P/N: HEXUJ1ZA2H2
• Hooker Blackheart Steering Shaft,

P/N: 71223021HKR

Part: Front Shock Absorber 4WD B6 Monotube
Supplier: BILSTEIN
P/N: 24014120
Qty: 2

Part: Rear Shock and Coil Spring Assembly (LS Model, Xtreme)
Supplier: MONROE
P/N: 58523
Qty: 1
NOTE: First used BILSTEIN but installed coil overs March 19, 2015 to correct sagging.

Thought I would take care of a couple of oil leaks as well.

Part: Valve Cover Gaskets with Valve Cover Grommets
Supplier: FEL-PRO
P/N: VS50464R
Qty: 1

Part: Oil Cooler Line - Inlet and outlet to remote oil filter.
Supplier: GSP
P/N: NCV10207
Qty: 1

 

Very nice looking Blazer there. I'm curious to see how your rebuild goes! Good luck.

 

Progress so far:

STEERING:
Replaced the original steering coupler with the LARES 205 steering coupler.

Removed steering linkage and built up the new left and right tie rod ends.

Could not find a new 5 hole center link, P/N 26038989 so refurbished original.

TORSION BARS:
Left Hand: P/N: 15956509
Right Hand: P/N 15956510
Diameter: 30.69
Torque: 1883

Removed the left and right torsion bars. Bought the torsion bar unloading tool from Amazon. Measured the number of threads on each adjustment bolt, spray painted the threads and also made a reference line from a flat on the torsion bar to the control arm.

I sent a huge thank you to the mechanic who worked on my Blazer when I first purchased it in 2004, Don Acker!

I remember after the first time he worked on it telling me that he packed each end of the torsion bars where they mounted into the control arm and support beam with wheel bearing grease and that I’d thank him one day.

Well, it’s almost 20 years later and today’s the day! After being installed all this time both torsion bars came out way better than expected! Each end looks almost brand new!

I’m definitely applying never seize to the flats on each end of the torsion bars when reinstalling and then packing the ends again with wheel grease!

Thank you Don Acker of Victory Auto in West Haven, CT. You’re the man!

 

Progress update:
PITMAN ARM
AC DELCO P/N: 45COO39
EXTRACTOR TOOL
Evercraft P/N: 776-9067
(2-1/2” opening)

Removed and replaced Pitman Arm. Overnight penetrating oil soak with Extraction Tool loaded up on the Pitman Arm. Realized that I was stressing the Extraction Tool to its limit so had to go to plan B. As suggested on UTube, I cut the back of the Pitman arm. I did this with the GB installed but it’s 3 mount bolts removed to move it slightly and install the Extraction Tool and access the attachment nut and washer. Tight space and used a Dremel with grinding wheel from the front with a 2x4 block under the GB.
Cut increments at a time periodically checking the depth of the cut and proximity to GB housing and splined shaft. When the cut was as far as I dare go I gave the opening a few raps with a cold chisel and 3 lb hammer. Heard that distinctive crack of the metal and the Pitman Arm was free! Installed the new one with never seize on the splines and red lock tight on the threads for the nut. Torqued to 185 ft lbs. applied red lock tight to the three mount bolts for the GB and torqued to 56 ft lbs.
Now I can install the rest of the steering!

Dremel with grinding wheel worked pretty good in a tight space.

Heard that distinctive crack in the metal when it released! You can see the hair line crack between the splines.

Measured the pitman arm across the splined end to make sure the extraction tool was wide enough to fit.

There are many makers of extraction tools but this one worked okay. Just have to realize when it’s close to giving it’s all to not break it and go to plan B.

New pitman arm aligned where the old one was removed. Now to install the rest of the steering linkage!

 

Completed the steering and suspension on the left side. Rebuilding the right side next and reinstalling the left and right torsion bars.