'94 Jimmy Push-button to Manual 4x4 Swap
#11
I believe you have to rig the t-case shifter after you get everything in. I'll do a little research for you and let you know. I have some factory manuals on an 84 and a 94. I remember rigging the shifter on my 84 Jimmy but wiuld hate to tell you how since it;s been quite a while. Looking good though.
#12
Well, here's my update for now. I got the case in, and after about 30 minutes of swearing I man-handled it in there on my back. Not easy to do with out some type of transmission jack. But it's up there and that's all that counts. So before I did that I tapped the two holes in the side of the trans for the shifter bracket, and also cut my hole in the floor. I'm going to be getting my shifter set up along with replacing the cat since it was bad. It just happened to be much easier to cut out the cat with the transfer case removed.
#13
Sorry I didn't get back with you sooner on the rigging. Went to hospital for "day surgery" and they just forgot to tell me how many days. The 94 Service Manual tells you how to adjust the transfer case linkage. Same as in 84. They didn't even change the picture. You need to have the console and boot up to access the linkage. Then:
1) Loosen the pivot bolt
2) Place shift lever in 4HI position
3) Install a suitable bolt at the shift lever on the transfer case . This will lock the transfer case in the 4HI position.
4) Insert a 8mm gage pin (or 5/16 drill bit) through the hole in the shift lever into the upper corner of the switch detent bracket. This aligns the switch asembly in the 4HI position. Tighten shift lever pivot bolt to 75 lbs. ft. and switch detent bracket to 30 lbs. ft.
5) Remove lock bolt installed in Step 3 and put the boot and console back together.
If you need a picture from the book PM me. After re-reading the procedure some of it doesn't make sense unless you have some visual help.
1) Loosen the pivot bolt
2) Place shift lever in 4HI position
3) Install a suitable bolt at the shift lever on the transfer case . This will lock the transfer case in the 4HI position.
4) Insert a 8mm gage pin (or 5/16 drill bit) through the hole in the shift lever into the upper corner of the switch detent bracket. This aligns the switch asembly in the 4HI position. Tighten shift lever pivot bolt to 75 lbs. ft. and switch detent bracket to 30 lbs. ft.
5) Remove lock bolt installed in Step 3 and put the boot and console back together.
If you need a picture from the book PM me. After re-reading the procedure some of it doesn't make sense unless you have some visual help.
#14
After you finish this frankencase, will your front shaft still be spinning at the same speed as the rear shaft in 2hi? I'm trying to figure a way to resolve my problem with this. Your case is looking pretty sweet though.
#15
#16
Just a little update, I've finished the install. I need to set up my posi-lock cable for the front axle. I think i'm gonna set up a custom shift linkage for the transfer case using heim joints so it'll be a little adjustable. But the case does shift and works just fine, and the lights work as well showing the shifting. It looks factory. When It's all complete I'll put up some pictures
#17
I'd like to see it. Glad you got it working. How much was the posi lok?
#18
On your shifter display, there is a flat cord that has 5 wires in it, and it connects the display to the position sensor on the lever. There is another cord that contains 4 wires, and goes somewhere behind the dash, do you know where?
#19
same
so on mine i did the manual swap to for the t case. but ive noticed i have no place to bolt the t case shifter now. and ive got the 2000 motor and transmission in it. any ideas on what to do there??
#20
Hey there ChevyWT. I'm planning to do this conversion on my '94 S10 Pickup soon. I have a NP231, shifter, console and extras from my wife's '91 Blazer we recently had to scrap. I also have the front axle Posi-Lok kit from www.4x4posi-lok.com. I am getting a NP233 from the scrap yard because my truck is a daily driver and I want to have my "NP232" built before swap day so it takes less time to complete. I am also going one step farther and saving up for a rear differential locker. Powertrax NoSlip from www.rocky-road.com/noslip.html seems like the best choice.
I have a couple questions for you. Did you hook vac lines back up to the t-case or just plug them? When you cut your hole in the floor, how did you measure or did you guess? What size tap did you use for the shift bracket bolts? Did you remove the old push button shifter from the dash and replace it with something? I may run leads from the lights on the console to the lights on the dash. Or if I install fog lights that may be a good spot for a switch with a few mods to the existing switch assembly. A nice diamond plate cover would look good. Thanks in advance.
I have a couple questions for you. Did you hook vac lines back up to the t-case or just plug them? When you cut your hole in the floor, how did you measure or did you guess? What size tap did you use for the shift bracket bolts? Did you remove the old push button shifter from the dash and replace it with something? I may run leads from the lights on the console to the lights on the dash. Or if I install fog lights that may be a good spot for a switch with a few mods to the existing switch assembly. A nice diamond plate cover would look good. Thanks in advance.
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