Spider injector, fuel pump, cap, rotor, wires and plugs. I'm busy with work and court so not much time to work on her. Plus with rain and melting snow for the next three weeks, I rather be inside with the kids, and have the mechanic do the work, hes never charged me more then half of what a shop would, and covers the price of parts while letting me do payments every other week.

after that, I'll be doing the work on suspension.

 

Ok, yea that job takes time. Being up north I definitely understand. Guessing told him use the good parts like metal backed gasket for lower intake and high quality pump and injectors. Should run like new after that.

 

Hes good like that, doesnt get anything that is not needed. Uses what he has and also makes sure before ordering parts, sometime I order as I can get cheaper then what he will. I always find deals somehow .

if I wasnt in as much if a rush to get her on the road, I have no problem dealing with mild weather and doing it. But with camping season coming, and the fact that me and the wife are sharing a vehicle at the moment, was easier to go this route.

 

Mechanic got the blazer started. And found that my heater motor seized over the winter, so off to the yard I go. Wont need to change the pump, and he wants to get the cap and rotor changed before taking a look at the spider injector, so saving a little money as well as finding new problems.

gotta start saving for front end parts too, wish it was a little busier at work, would be easier to save up for a sas lol.

priced out some used 31's at a local shop for 300, but they are for my 15" winter rims, so had to look up a similar size for my 16" summers I picked up, going to stop in next week to see about prices.

and now thinking of trying to find some side steps for the wife, kids and dog. The never ending work list for the blazer lol

 

my mechanic changed the cap and rotor and freed up my dash fan that was seized. He has not been able to get it to act up after the cap and rotor, so hopefully that "fixed" my issue and I can worry about the injector later. For now my worries are getting the front end good again, feels like shocks, ball joints, idler arm, tie rods, alignment, trim front diff so my tie rod doesnt hit it anymore lol. And find out which of my rims is bent, or if it's a front wheel off alignment.

giving everything a once over before I order any parts. Gotta look up what ball joint are in my rc arms again, glad I have this thread for that info lol

 

when u get the upper ball joints I got the mevotech tax terrain tough ones have lasted me over a year so far and they take a beating and still good

 

Not sure what motor/injector issue you think you might have. I ended up finding my problem using WiFi ODB scanner tool with IPad and app. Showed issue with trims at low speed and idle which meant the old tippet original style injectors leaking which made sense with the loading up/rough idle that came and went depending how I drove it. Replaced with the new updated injectors and voila, issue gone, performance better than ever and ODB scan results normal. I ended up graphing the results and posted pics on forum which got to the bottom of problem. Hardest part seeing I use apple devices was finding a solid app. Tool is same one recommended in bluetooth format but apple devices do not support the bluetooth communication thus had to use the WiFi version. Unfortunately the best app is made for Android bluetooth version and not made for Apple devices. Oh well, found a decent one apple app and went better than expected and worth the small investment. Info was on my post for all this if curious.

As for front end, seems like you mentioned almost every part in it. Start simple, check tire/rims. Last set of tires I bought new had a defective one causing a vibration above 45mph and it got worse faster I went. Seeing never had issue before new tires went back to shop, told them test drive. They came back pulled both rears and spun em up on balancer. Found one had deformed shape (out of round) even tho balanced. Replaced and problem solved. Not sure what your feeling when driving it seeing not mentioned but if loose handling more likely Play/slack in idler arm. MOst places wont even do alignment till little/no play in steering first.

 

So far I got a wable that comes and goes, a loud clunk, only 1, from passenger side when shes full turn either way( maybe cv isnt locked in?). With the RC lift kit and with torsion cranked, I would not doubt my stock idle arm is gone already. Most of it is new, idler is less then a couple of months before storing, upper ball joints the same, checking lower ones. I know the drivers side rc lift shock is gone already, I'm thinking the passenger side gave out.

for the spider, #3 is leaking a little, but since the cap and rotor, it doesnt misfire when I floor it.

last think is that when I have to apply brakes hard from 60km or above, I get a jerk back and forth in the front, would that be the lack of sway bar or something else?

 

are you meaning for stock upper control arms? Or the upgraded tubular rough country arms? I have a lift and use the press in joint and not bolt on, I got 2010 Silverado 2500 ball joints lol, dont ask me why as everyone else I've talked to about theirs have a different one... annoying but works so I deal with it...

 

I was under the truck today, trying to figure out my random single clunk on hard turns from stop. Everything looks nice and snug, not much play in anything.

I have come to the conclusion that my wable is from my toe in and out, my passenger tire is out, and can feel it while making left turns.

I notice this gap on my cv axle and made me think it was not sitting in place, wanted to see about an input before I take it apart.

Driver gap



Passenger

edit: had pictures labelled backwards