I had the rc 2.5 lift, front had control arms, a drop braket for the diff on the driverside, a wedge for the passenger side, and torsion keys. Rear was just shackles for the leafs.

When I first installed the lift, i had to cut the stock diff to install the drop bracket, the only problem i had then was the shocks not lasting, and upper ball joints.

Since I installed the zr2 parts the front diff is cast iron, and I would rather go buy a stock diff and cut it... the cast iron diff is too much of a one off part for me to cut it lol... so the geometry wasn't right, so I removed everything from the front minus the shocks...

 

So going to the ZR2 suspension with its stock-ZR2 specs? Or are you going back to original non-ZR2 stock parts?

I totally agree to not cut up the cast-iron ZR2 front diff.

 

I'm keeping the zr2 front diff and rear axle on it. The front diff wasn't causing any issues, was just the lack of having the full lift on the caused the issue. Rear axle is fine as well, I just need to watch ride height because the 2wd rims it out.

I'm sure if I put 4wd rims on that they would all sit flush with the body, but I like the buldge out... lol that sounds bad....

 

Not much of anything going on...

I fixed my leaking filler neck. It's 100 to start with online, so I picked up a couple of exhaust pipes and welded them together, fixed that problem, no more spilling 10$ of gas when filling up!

Going through a separation so not sure how much I'll be getting this summer, but she's putting up with me more then the wife did!!!

 

Sorry to hear about the separation Don. Wish you well. It’s always tuff but maybe it’s for the best. Hang in there and get!! Maybe just do what you want to.

 

Sorry to hear. Been there before. Hang in there brother!

 

Thanks guys, appreciate it...

So for 220, got moving calipers, rotors and pads all the way around for the blazer. Not ideal or what I want, but I gotta keep costs at a bare minimum, literally invhing pennies lol .. these will get me by for the summer, and come October my bills will basicly disappear until January. So I'll be able to properly take care of the brakes and start looking at the trans swap and other work.

Rears are almost new, fronts are about half. All evenly worn, so thoose are good signs...

Rears look newer then the front, but all the pins move nicely...

Fronts arent old, rears are what looks to be the second round... but all are even with only the surface rust...

if it wasn't for the warped gouged crap rotors and the stuck calipers I have, I wouldn't of gone this route, but I have a 3 hr trip one way to drop off the trailer to the other half, so i need to make sure i can stop properly if I have to... got cut off the other day, and 1 tire locked up on the brakes, then I had to fight the engine for the remaining 2km ride... wasn't happy...

 

We all do what we gotta do! Heck I've resurfaced rotors with a 4 inch grinder and a flap disk! I wouldn't recommend that but.... lol

 

Well the transmission went... not when I thought it would... but it did lol...

I had to drive the tent trailer up north, 3.5 hrs on the highways, or 4 3/4 hrs back roads, i took the back roads due to speed the truck could do with the bad trans lol. Averaged a 75-80 kmh on the way there, pulled the 3500 lbs tent trailer without arguing. Got to my drop off location, and decided to start making my way home... well I got about 20 min out when I lost 3rd and 4th with overdrive... so I went back and camped for 2 nights... I made the dreadful drive today, took me 8 hrs at a whopping 45 kmh..... was the slowest road trip of my life! But would do it again lmao...

So driving moms jimmy for now, got a guy thats supposed to be able to swap the trans for me tomorrow... will get a hold of him and see...

 

Oh man! Sound like a burned-up 3/4 clutch pack.

This is why I installed my extra trans cooler for when I tow my 2,200 lbs of boat up some steep grades.

Is a rebuild possible in the near future?