I received my replacement bulbs for the radio yesterday and was able to find the below linked write up online which matched my radio internals so I decided to rip the radio out again tonight and go to it.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-ele...t-adapter.html

All the old bulbs desoldered and waiting replacement:



Audio Jack soldered:



Wiring spliced into CD cable:



Audio Jack mounted to back of bezel:



Audio Jack test fit:



Reinstalled and working with audio jack:



All lights functional on radio, I should have thought about it but it didn't occur to me till I saw that the lamps I ordered online were brighter then the ones I got in radio shack, at least it works:

 

Plasti dipped the wheels this weekend, I need to take care of that gold/cream pin striping, it just doesn't seem to flow at all anymore now that the gold wheels and gold badges have been blacked out.

 

Took care of the rust in the rear on both sides this weekend. The drivers side ended up being a little more then surface rust so I had to reinforce that and bondo it, then prepped it and painted it with POR-15.

Both sides sanded down:





Drivers side bondoed and sanded:







Prepped and Painted with POR-15:

 

Nice work!

 

Thanks!



Got my upgraded hitch today and P2 trailer brake controller.

I'm in the process of buying a pop up camper and it's rated at 2500lbs dry and 3500lbs GVWR with a tongue weight of 350lbs. My current hitch is a class III but only rated at 3500lbs max towing weight and I preferred to not be towing so close to the limit when we load the camper up so I got one rated at 5000lbs towing and 500lbs tongue weight. Also the trailer had electric brakes, so I need a brake controller for it.

 

I installed by brake controller this weekend but discovered that the factory hitch replaced the rear bumper supports completely when I went to remove it, so now I have to send the hitch back and get a weight distribution system for the trailer. Well I don't have to, but I feel more comfortable not being so close to the limit of the hitch.

Hitch rating with and without weight distribution:


Aux power and brake controller line that Chevy pulls from the wiring harness in the rear into the front engine bay(found under the airbox):



Wires after removed the airbox:


Wires hooked up, airbox back, and wires run through firewall:


Power and brake coming through firewall into cabin on passenger side:


Brake controller installed and mounted:

 

Towed my sons Cub Pack in the Halloween Parade tonight.

Getting ready before the parade:

 

That's awesome!

 

Just redid the rear brakes, replaced clips, pads, and rotors for inspection. Next up lower ball joins, pitman arm and idler arm. From what I've been watching on youtube it's not going to be a fun job. Got the moog replacement parts.

 

You either need a Suburban or Dually, and you might as well go ahead and buy a transmission off craigslist and have it rebuilt and waiting.... because towing and loading the ol Blazer up like that, it won't last long.

It's a cool rig and I'm very impressed with what you've done, but these trucks aren't tough enough to work very hard. When I was looking for my Blazer, I made damn sure to find one that had never pulled a trailer of any kind so I didn't have to worry about tranny problems.