Long Range Mod
#1
Long Range Mod
Hey guys. I was wondering if anyone has ever:
1. Put a spare tire carrier from a ZR2 on a 4-door and relocate the spare tire from the undercarriage to the spare tire carrier (OR maybe even a hitch or bumper mounted carrier?)
2. Put a ZR2 gas tank in the place where the spare tire is and either:
A.Put in an inline pump from the gas tank to a custom fitting on the filler neck of the factory tank so the fuel in the second tank will flow to the main tank at the flick of a switch connected to a relay connected to the pump, effectively extending the non-stop unrefueled range of the truck by 100%.
B. Get a ZR2 tank, fuel pump and straps from a junkyard and split the wiring and fuel lines from the main tank in such a way so that either tank can supply fuel to the engine with a double pole/double throw switch and relays.
I think idea A would be more practical because it wouldn't require messing with the wiring and fuel lines on the OEM tank. All I would need to do is figure out a way to connect a line from the second tank to the filler neck on the OEM tank. Then I would run a heavy gauge power wire from the battery to a relay and run wires to a switch on the inside of the truck to move fuel when I need to. I got to drop the OEM tank anyway in about a month or two to replace the fuel pump since the sender is not working and the pump is a little noisy (you can hear it when the engine runs). Fuel filter has been replaced twice in the past 30k. Does noise mean that the pump is going to fail soon? It starts up every time on the first try without fail all the time. It has been doing that for a long time.
Thanks.
1. Put a spare tire carrier from a ZR2 on a 4-door and relocate the spare tire from the undercarriage to the spare tire carrier (OR maybe even a hitch or bumper mounted carrier?)
2. Put a ZR2 gas tank in the place where the spare tire is and either:
A.Put in an inline pump from the gas tank to a custom fitting on the filler neck of the factory tank so the fuel in the second tank will flow to the main tank at the flick of a switch connected to a relay connected to the pump, effectively extending the non-stop unrefueled range of the truck by 100%.
B. Get a ZR2 tank, fuel pump and straps from a junkyard and split the wiring and fuel lines from the main tank in such a way so that either tank can supply fuel to the engine with a double pole/double throw switch and relays.
I think idea A would be more practical because it wouldn't require messing with the wiring and fuel lines on the OEM tank. All I would need to do is figure out a way to connect a line from the second tank to the filler neck on the OEM tank. Then I would run a heavy gauge power wire from the battery to a relay and run wires to a switch on the inside of the truck to move fuel when I need to. I got to drop the OEM tank anyway in about a month or two to replace the fuel pump since the sender is not working and the pump is a little noisy (you can hear it when the engine runs). Fuel filter has been replaced twice in the past 30k. Does noise mean that the pump is going to fail soon? It starts up every time on the first try without fail all the time. It has been doing that for a long time.
Thanks.
#2
I would have fuel pumped from the spare tank into the stock one... less hassle because 2 pumps may play around with fuel pressure and have a negative effect.
#3
Very good point. Thanks
#4
you are missing one factor, where are you going to mount the fuel filler for the second tank?
you could put a large fitting on to the second tank and seal it, then run a large line to the main tank, near the bottom of both tanks obviously.
and also a vent line on top of both tanks. then when you fill the main tank it will flow into the second tank and as you drive both tanks will empty together
you could put a large fitting on to the second tank and seal it, then run a large line to the main tank, near the bottom of both tanks obviously.
and also a vent line on top of both tanks. then when you fill the main tank it will flow into the second tank and as you drive both tanks will empty together
#5
you are missing one factor, where are you going to mount the fuel filler for the second tank?
you could put a large fitting on to the second tank and seal it, then run a large line to the main tank, near the bottom of both tanks obviously.
and also a vent line on top of both tanks. then when you fill the main tank it will flow into the second tank and as you drive both tanks will empty together
you could put a large fitting on to the second tank and seal it, then run a large line to the main tank, near the bottom of both tanks obviously.
and also a vent line on top of both tanks. then when you fill the main tank it will flow into the second tank and as you drive both tanks will empty together
#6
Did you ever get this project worked out? I have been tossing this idea around as well. The 1st gens don't have too much space under them for much but I was thinking about trying to fit a 2nd gen tank along the non exhaust side.
It would rule.
It would rule.
#7
Well since this was brought back, it should also be noted that installing a rear mounted spare carrier on a vehicle that was not originall built for one requires fabrication of an inner support INSIDE the rear fender area of that body pannel. if you just blast screws through the sheet metal you are going to end up with some really bad damage the first time you swing it open under the weight of a spare...
#8
I tossed the idea actually. Too unsafe, impractical, expensive and I am not experienced enough to do that. I can do parts of a tuneup (except the wires and #3 plug) and oil changes, but custom fabrication and installing the parts needed to do this? No.
Besides, even on longer trips, I never run the existing tank below 1/2 anyway because the last fuel pump failed when I let it go down to around 1/4 to allow the shop to drop the tank to replace the brake lines and pump (having it replaced anyway while the tank was down. It failed in the shop's parking lot when I pulled in for the appointment!). Besides, the additional weight of the tank and gas eats into the payload capacity. More gas might be useful for longer trips, but if there was a safe way to run the tank to empty without messing up the pump, I don't need another tank because I will have effectively doubled the range anyway by letting it go until E instead of 1/2. I didn't go OEM with the pump when I had it replaced. It is a Walbro TU429, so I don't want to give it a reason to fail.
Besides, even on longer trips, I never run the existing tank below 1/2 anyway because the last fuel pump failed when I let it go down to around 1/4 to allow the shop to drop the tank to replace the brake lines and pump (having it replaced anyway while the tank was down. It failed in the shop's parking lot when I pulled in for the appointment!). Besides, the additional weight of the tank and gas eats into the payload capacity. More gas might be useful for longer trips, but if there was a safe way to run the tank to empty without messing up the pump, I don't need another tank because I will have effectively doubled the range anyway by letting it go until E instead of 1/2. I didn't go OEM with the pump when I had it replaced. It is a Walbro TU429, so I don't want to give it a reason to fail.
#9
I have one of those lines with the handpump, I just put the filled jerry up on the roof, give a couple squeezes and hold it till the jerrys empty. I have 2 jerrys, thats another 50 litres almost doubling my highway range. No custom mounting, no extra weight when you dont need it.
#10
I have one of those lines with the handpump, I just put the filled jerry up on the roof, give a couple squeezes and hold it till the jerrys empty. I have 2 jerrys, thats another 50 litres almost doubling my highway range. No custom mounting, no extra weight when you dont need it.
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