Next projects for it will be to clean off all the green slime, down here on the west coast everything that faces north gets coated in this algae like stuff, bleach kills it and removes it easy enough. Then polish that green paint with the power polisher and cut polish.

As for the dash not working, I have a GPS mounted on the dash that reads the speed out for me. One day Ill grab another cluster or the rebuild kit from Ebay for it, just not soon as I have something banging in the RF to fix up first.

I figured it was a good buy for 300 just for the nice tires alone. They are almost new.

Also found the tailgates sheet metal is cracked where the spare tire locks onto it. I will weld that crack up and smooth it out, and the tire is going on the roof and that carrier is going in the trash. I may try and make one of those roof racks like some guys on here have, they look nice.

 

like ohso said, why not look into that eBay repair kit? i'm picking one up for my youngest brother's '94 Jimmy. i sure as hell wish that guy was around way back when i went through 3 clusters, before i said "chuck it!", and went and did what you're contemplating doing (not a fun job).


i did the same thing with my '92 Jimmy. i took the tire carrier from the TG, cut the center mount off, and welded it to a couple of cross bars. which i then bolted to the rear roof rack mounting points & the side rail of said roof rack. too bad i did this long before i thought about taking pic's of everything i built.

 

Mine was cracked in the same spot...

 

Well havent had any updates for a while. I no longer live in Abbotsford BC, I split with the magical woman (she could make money dissapear) and packed my toys and **** and pointed myself towards Edmonton once again at the end of May. I lived in BC for a whole 9 months, just long enough to get to really like it there, but the best opportunities I could jump at was back in Edmonton. Work is hard to find in BC, so I called my old boss in Edmonton and told him my situation, he told me that if I came back to edmonton I got my old job back. 4 days later my dad was there in his big RV to pull a Uhaul with my furniture in it, I pulled my utility trailer with my tools and stuff. Quickly I got a place in Edmonton to live with a garage, and Im single again. Time to start doing the things that I want to do and not having to answer to anyone again. Now that Im an established Edmontonian again, I can get my modding on...

OK, in keeping with my theme of being cheap, I have dug up some of my old stereo equipment and started on some interior stuff I want to get done.

Heres the stereo stuff I have so far to install this weekend I hope. I have owned this stuff for a while and had it in various boxes and milk crates.

2 decks to choose from. I will be using the DVD player probably.
Top - Panasonic CQ-C5305U - CD Player - 3 RCA outputs. Plays MP3 and has a front input for iPod
Bottom - Freeway DVD2685 - DVD Player - 2RCA outputs. Plays MP3, DivX, and also has a front input.


JL Audio - Evolution TR400 - dash speakers
JL Audio - Evolution TR525 - rear door speakers
Sosche - 500K - capacitor
EDIT: Well this blows, the dash speakers are 4x6 plates and the rear doors are a 6 1/2... Crap i dont own any speakers that size. Guess I have to go look at the stereo shop this week and see what kind of cheap deal I can get.


The amp for the subs. Its an Alpine MRV-100M. I think its 300x1 bridged at 4Ohm. I will be running it bridged at 2Ohm. It will be getting installed under the passenger seat - EDIT wont fit there, on to plan B


The sub is a 10 inch Alpine Type-R Dual Voice Coil. Dont know what the power ratings are for it. It pounds in a ported box. I will bridge the coils, and bridge the amp channels, and by my math that creates a 2Ohm load on an amp that makes [email protected] max. Half the Ohms double the output it what Ive heard.


I also have some minor interior mods under go this weekend.

Getting rid of some of the grey color from the dash and painting parts with Krylon plastic primer, then boxliner paint cause I love the texture. I prepped the parts with sandpaper and acetone. Paint grabbed beautifully.


I am installing my GPS unit permanently in the roof console, I will be able to close it up and hide away the GPS. The power will come from the switched power going to my deck so it shuts off when the car does. The unit is by Magellan and called a RoadMate. Its a great little unit. I had my first one freeze up so i called Magellan and they puolatored me a NEW unit in box within 3 days - FOR FREE. Excellent company to buy a GPS unit from.

 

Anyhow, I found a good spot for the amp to go:



The center console with the broken armrest is already in the trash pile. Ill save some of the plastic for fabbing small stuff if I have to, but its never going back into the truck. I will be relocating this box that I assume is for the power seats to underneath one of the seats. I will use the metal brackets on the front and rear parts to mount custom made cupholders for the front and rear that tim hortons cups wont be able to tip over out of! Ill get dad to help me cut all the peices out of good wood and put em all together and screw it down. Rear cupholders, how cool would that be?


And here is the plates that I own. OHSOFLY will be going onto the truck once I do the front end and have it inspected for Alberta. If I can find the means to do another V8 S10 then it will get SOSOFLY.

 

You can put the rear wind deflector on. Most people say it looks weird with the rear wiper, but I did it and I think it looks great. Simple job, but have someone to help hold the glass straight when you bolt it back up.

For rear 6.5's try these... Polk Audio db651 6.5" Coaxial Marine Grade Speakers - eBay (item 330435093491 end time Jul-17-10 17:15:40 PDT)

I put 4 in my boat this year running of an Eclipse PA5422 (120 rms/4) They sound amazing, very clear and the mid bass is very snappy. I was impressed, I have never heard a set of coax at this price range sound so clear. The best part is they are water proof in case you get into some deep stuff!

Keep up the cool thread, nobody talks about the first gens!

 

OK, got a junkyard window. Its got no wiper, but thats fine with my cause I stole the wing hinges too. $20 for the glass and $15 for the wing hinge.

Painted the wing with a few coats of boxliner to match up with the rest of the truck.

Removal of the old tint:
Spray ammonia allover the old tint, and lay a plastic bag on it to keep it from evaporating. Let sit overnight, and the old tint will just peel right off.


The old filthy window, with no tint, on my kitchen counter. I used a yellow towel for the contrast so you can all see what im talking about.


The tools of the trade. Spray bottle, OLFA knife and blades (use only OLFA, they dont scratch the glass as easy) A large squeegie, a small rubber one, a hardcard (bondo card works great) flat cleaning blades, abrasive sanding pads, and shampoo - Mine is mystery stuff, I slept with a beautiful girl whose hair smelled amazing... I said I wanted some for my tint spray and she gave me a bottle filled with some of hers. Once it runs out its all gone... We had wild sex so its fun to go back in my mind to those days. That little bottle will do a thousand tints still.


The tint Im using is SolarGard NR23Charcoal. Its pro grade stuff. This will go on the whole rear section overtop of the factory tint.


The front doors will get NR35Charcoal.


Seriously scrub the window with the scouring pad (or steel wool if you have) about 5 times and rinse to make sure every spec of filth you can get if off it, then rinse and squuegie again 5 times just to be sure. Dust is your enemy.


Roll on your film - Shiney side out - onto the OUTSIDE of the window, you need to trim it to fit the inside. Its easy to tell which is the tint side and which is the clear cover side with NR film (non-reflective).


Trim the edges with your knife really close, you will see how much clearance you need between the clear glass and the defroster edges for when it makes its way to the inside of the window. 2MM is about it. Snap off your blade every 2 feet and keep cutting, never go more than that far or you will feel the tip scratching the glass.


This window required some heat shrinking. The fingers go THAT way really hard and fast once the heat is applied.


When you heat them, they crinkle up like THIS, and that is when you swipe it with the papertowel wrapped hardcard to make the finger dissapear. You have to do this a helluva lot more on a cars back window. Blazers are pretty flat.


You can keep the film anwhere clean and flat - like your refridgerator front - while you do your final cleaning on the inside of the window.


Scrub that window hard and lots, see the clean defroster bars on the left? and bronze on the right. You arent done until the defroster bars and shiny and silver. Then rinse about 5 times.


Peel away the clear protector on the tint peice and wet the black part soaked and fast. Then turn around and wet the glass, then ease your hands up under the tint and stick it on the window as quick and dustless as you can.


Start squeeging out the water from the top to the bottom. Then hardcard it with the papertowel wrapped card. A bondo card works well as well. Careful not to rip the tint. You dont need to get all the water out, just most of it and all the bubbles.


Now take it outside to bake in the sun. The tine needs about 8 hours of hot sun to cure. On roll up windows its about 2 days worth before you should try rolling them down.


Thats what I accomplished this morning, hope it helps you do better tint jobs for yourself. I also installed it with ORings added to all the connections and screw holes and its tight and doesnt squeak anymore.

 

that is a superb write up brother.

you should get one of the Mods/admin's to post a copy in the DIY/Tech Articles section.

 

You should just wait and let me modify it as I do the roll down windows too and add a little more detail and photos. Its quite easy to tint a car yourself.

As for the thread, I got a ROXBOX H.O box, and 2 - JLAudio 12W3 subs today ($100), as well as 2 Alpine VPower MRP-M350 amps to power them ($50ea). Man I love the local buy and sell, I pretty much stole this stuff from the guys. Thats my 18 year old Ringneck - Cleoparrotra - walking around on top checking it out - she approves!


Got the back window trim painted, and the window installed and working again.

Tinted the rear windows with 23% and ran out of tint. Tomorrow maybe i will tackle all 4 rolls ups with the 35% and finish off my tinting tutorial, or make a new one... whichever.

 

Ok so I have tackled a little more of the stereo stuff. My dad and me modified the old speakers to fit my smaller ones in the factory spots. He used the cut off disk to remove the speaker from the frame and drilled holes to rivet the new speaker on the old frame. we needed a little clearance so we put 1/4 inch thick chunks of clear tubing on the rins before fastening on the speaker, that made the clearance good and everything went into the fash just like new.


The back doors originally had 6 1/2 speakers, i owned 5 1/4 so we used some plumbers strapping and cut it up into 2 hole chunks, double layered it so its solid, and riveted them to the speaker and the door. Its solid as rock now.


I also installed a vacuum gauge and a bass cutoff switch. The switch is just a killswitch on the remote turn on lead. The gauge is wired to turn on with the ignition and plumbed as near to the manifold that I could get it.