Shackle angles look good now. I like the new center caps too. Are you going to repaint the rims silver again to match?

 

Not sure what I will do with the rims yet. I would really like to get them powder coated when I decide what to do with them but I am undecisive lol! I think I will likely just spray some black on them again for now so they don't look like crap for the time being.

 

Gonna be doing sas swap as well I could use a link or two for more info! Also are rodeo rear end and waggy same bolt pattern for wheels? Why not both jeep wagoneer axels? Also if you know anything about the 4x4 system plz pm me having issues with mine. Thanks and awesome build!!!!

 

Been slowly chipping away at the to do list for the blazer and making good progress. Since I swapped the axle and had to redo a couple brake lines I figured now was the time to do an abs delete and larger master so I did! I went with the Wilwood prop valve since it has two outputs for the front to match my truck so two cuts and two flares the front was done. I had to get an adapter for the rear line to reduce the 1/4 line down but no big deal. I also like the fact that I can easily wire in the pressure switch. To mount it I just cut the mount off the factory prop valve and then cut and drilled a piece of scrap I had laying around and welded it on. For the master I went with the 1.5" bore suburban unit.






Then today I pulled it in the shop to swap the tcase, drill out the spring perch holes to fit my bolts and flip the rear springs around.

My buddy ended up selling the tcase for me so that was nice. I still have to build a mount for the shifter linkage but that's minor. I also have to mod my cross member for the drive shaft but the hard part is over.

So here's where I need some opinions...
I had originally installed the leaves with the long side in front when I swapped this axle just because I didn't pay attention to how the were mounted when I took the other ones out and it of course pushed my axle back considerably so that's why I flipped them today when I drilled the perches. Well after swapping the tcase I realized the tail shaft on the 231 is a couple inches shorter than the 233 so I am going to need a longer shaft regardless.

So my thought is either way I need a longer shaft so why not just re flip the springs and push the axle back further. I do have a d60 in the works to swap into the front and plan to be in 40s by next fall so the extra clearance would be helpful/necessary. Obviously this is going to require me to cut my bumper a bit but I'm ok with that. Here is a pic with it pushed back before I swapped them around also a shot of my buddies xj that he just finished a 60/14b swap on 40s.

So really I just need some reassurance that stretching it now is the right way to go!

 

yeah, leave it stretched.

 

Longer wheelbase adds stability at the expense of turning radius. But that's what they made REVERSE for.

 

5 minute shop

 

The blazer is finally running smoother than I think it ever has! I got the new distributor installed properly and after ovaling out the hold down bolt hole and hooking it up to a scanner got my cam retard set properly and its running awesome.

I decided I am going to pull the 231 case back out and reinstall the 233 for the time being so I can drive it while I wait for parts for the 231. I spoke with these guys today and I am going to order this kit to install into my 231. I will have a spare xj shaft extended to the length I need once its all back together and run that for the rear. I was skeptical about it for strength but people are running them all over the place on jeeps with big tires without issue so I'm not to concerned. If anything it should be stronger than my factory shaft.

 

Well I got the tcase swapped back and that's when the fun ended when I went to put the driveshaft back in I found my new axle had a 1410 yoke on it! Normally this would be exciting for strength purposes but the problem lies in that they don't make a 1310-1410 conversion joint so now I'm left with a couple options all which will cost even more money.

#1 have a custom shaft built with 1310 on the trans side and 1410 on the axle side. A quick call to Tom Woods and I found that this shaft is $429 through them! In actuality that's not a bad price but sticker shock is killing me there!

#2 swap out the pinion yoke to a 1350 and extend my xj shaft with the conversion joint as planned. That route should be around $200

#3 find a shaft with a 1410 joint on it already then have it shortened to the length I need and run a conversion joint on the trans side with the factory yoke (if there is a conversion joint to fit the shaft) cost is up in the air depending on what I find a shaft for plus the cost of shortening and a joint but I'd estimate it at around $250.

Option 1 and 2 also include another $180 towards the cost of an SYE but for strength purposes I like that but cost I hate lol.

Option 3 uses the factory slip yoke which is likely fine but should I just spring for the extra strength now knowing my future plans so I don't have to worry as much about it later on?

Option #4 is I'm going to talk to my local shop and see what they mIght be able to build a shaft for. I'll report back with those findings once I have them.

 

Good luck man. Sucks to have your ride parked like that.