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from what i can find these rigs had several rear hardware configurations, some stories about torx heads being used, torque-plates vs just straight bolted in, etc. my trucks configuration had 2 torque plates on the bottom with 4 nuts (2 studs per plate) and the top had 4 bolts with nuts welded to the factory brackets on the inside that they thread into.i'll pickup an M12 next time im near a hardware store and see if it fits. Thank you.
As far as the list, alot of it is quick repairs or things to be expected from a truck older then i am, i picked up a second job recently so my only issues with getting it done is time management
ordered wiper motor for the front, ordering P/S pump tomorrow, realized just how much i have left to do so may as well get on it. getting the cowl screen off was an, ordeal as all the screws save for the hex-heads were corroded, and the plastic tabs were just spinning in their bores. going to have to replace all the mounting hardware.
"TUBTARA" helps a lot with free spinning nuts and such things.
To remove the P/S pump's pulley - spray penetration oil on it every two or three days for as long as you like. (Make sure no drops. Very small amount around the shaft let it pull it in by itself, then wipe. Else you will ruin the V-belt.)
Then definitively, positively get the proper puller and pull the pulley before removing the pump unless you have a great workshop where you can fix the pump properly in a vise.
All other methods like cutting will ruin the pulley, the shaft or both and void the core-refund.
Wiper motor was installed a little bit ago, forgot to post anything. had to remove the linkage and take a BFH to the damn bushing to replace it. very very hard and dry rotted, not sure why it was still so strong.
wiper blades responsible for the horrible shrieking. one came off the rear and the other off the front of a GMC Terrain, both are currently on the front windshield and the longer 24 inch Terrain blade is not curved for this windshield. at all.
the fun stuff arrived
Grille Lights, first actual Modification im going to do
Spoiler
that and integrating a 1 amp battery tender so all i have to do is run an extension cord from whereever i am parked to keep it charged if im sitting for a while with the engine off and operating the controls, lights, radio, blower, etc. and so my charger stops getting stolen by crackheads... lovely south florida.
basic layout, top row of the grille for now, left and right ones will act with turn signals and running lights while the center im going to tap off the drivers side running light circuit for the lower housing. for the left and right im not sure how to power them for running lights, would need some sort of flasher on the circuit and a relay to trip it, and since these are LEDs i'd need a ballast also. anyone care to chime in? i might just be over thinking it.
re-thought out what i was going to do with the grille lights, i'll look at options for integrating a flasher later but for now im going to add an accessory fuse and relay panel under the hood, and use the running lights power feed as the control side for a relay to power the lights, and i will use a similar scheme for wiring accessory lights in the future since i plan on adding a good few more. have to order some good Delphi Weatherpack connectors since the Dorman ones i ordered are absolute hot garbage, dont know why i keep tricking myself thinking "this time it wont be garbage!" ..delphi ones are cheaper as well, just some assembly required.
Installed the front calipers finally, and cleaned the throttlebody, needs a new IAC but the difference in idle performance is insane, i'd hazard i can put a glass of beer on the intake hat and it would be completely still.
