Wait, R12? Unless the Blazers sold in Canada are different, it should have R134 in it. The connected for R12 will not even hook up to the system. The port is different. There might be a sticker under the hood that says what freon is in it? But I could be wrong. I know there's one with the emissions info (catalyst) and belt routing, but I thought I remembered seeing a sticker with freon info on it. Could have just been on the compressor that I installed.

I've heard that the laws around buying refrigerant is different in Canada. Here in the states you can buy R134 over the counter anywhere and you cannot buy R12 anywhere, but apparently it's the opposite there, where you can get R12 anywhere but not R134?


I've always done my own AC work and have always had great success (accept the time I forgot to install an O-ring on a new line... lol). I use a vacuum system at work to recover all the old freon and then do whatever work I need to do. In that picture I actually am using a vacuum pump that I borrowed from a friend, but I now have my own pump (Harbor Freight, cost around $100 I think), and a set of gauges for the high and low ports (can also be had at Harbor Freight for about $40 I think, I got mine from Napa though and think I paid around $60). Aside from that, just cans of refrigerant, which R134 seems to fluctuate around here, but I've seen it as low as $5 a can and go for as much as $20 a can... I always use PURE refrigerant, stay away from the cans that have "sealants" or "stopleak" in them, and I even try to avoid any with UV dye in them, as me personally, I have never had a problem chasing down freon leaks because the oil comes out with the freon and usually leaves a tell-tale mark that's pretty easy to track down... Aside from that, just make sure you're using the right type of oil for the system, which might actually differ if you put an aftermarket compressor on it. I would always recommend flushing the system out if you're replacing a compressor because it's failed, because that sends metal shavings through the entire system. I've used the flush in a can several times, then blew the residual out with compressed air until the air coming out the other side of the line, condenser, or evaporator, was clear of any liquids or oils.


Always throw in a new orifice tube if you're installing a new compressor too, for the same reason you flush the rest of the system. It collects all the metal shavings from the compressor when it denigrates inside...

 

The options for us are r12 and r22. Everywhere under hoods I've always seen the one your talking about, but I haven't found it anywhere. I bought this stuff because I've used it in a neon back in the day and my old civic, and it worked both times flawlessly. I'm going to search up a little more on this before I use it. I still have the receipt so I can return it no problem.

edit:

so a little further research, and I am able to use r22 but not r12. There is a difference between the heat exchange rate of the r134 and the r22. Looking further into finding r134 around here.

 

I am unsure about R22, have never messed with it sir.

I know that comparing R12 to R134, R134 SUCKS lol. I would much rather have R12 in the system. I had an old Toyota Pickup years ago with an R12 system that would literally frost up the vents. After 300k miles the original compressor finally gave out. I replaced it and had to convert the system over to R134, and it was just never as cold again...

 

That's good to know lol. I'm gonna look into the ac compressor kit to suck it out and change the fluid altogether. Might have to be the way I go.

 

On a side note, I picked up a couple of xtreme doors for 100 because they are white, and tinted windows lol. my drivers door motor isnt working and I dont have tinted windows. So I'll turn around and sell these for 80 and that will be my 20 $ tiny job and window motor repair bill lol.

they are in descent shape, a little dirty, but with a light top coat on them, they will shine like the rest of the truck with little work.

 

Found out why the 3rd door didnt latch at the bottom

Removed more AIR DUCT TAPE from the truck...

Donor zr2 door

Removed everything to prep for bondo

Can you see the latch problem?

How about now?

I stopped by the mechanics and helped out with the blazer some more... made room in the shop, brought her in, and started tearing her down.

so far shes got most of the upper engine torn off along with hood and brush guard for easier access. Going to stop by and move the zr2 to put on stands to swap the axles. I'm leaving the front diff out as it only needs to roll onto a trailer.

Before the tear down.

 

The wife cant decide a name for her truck. So now shes asking for help. Shes tossing Little One(blazer is known as the beast to her), and Pearl(wants me to paint it Cadillac white pearl).

she wants metallic purple rims, she bought detailing strips for small gap lines around the dash(purple), has some little pedal area lights(purple).... get the hint? Lol

 

Regarding an ac rebuild, i did a writeup on it. (It is in my build thread.) It was a bit involved but not hard. As mentioned above, getting the condeser out was the worst part; really more annoying than anything else.

 

More work done to the sonoma, just prep and test fit and functions. Had to make sure the window and such worked, window originally was down all the way lol. I use a lot of primer sometimes as I use it to keep the metal covered over night to minimize rust during bondo stages. But I've noticed a difference between keeping the metal covered between stages and not, it lasts a little longer lol... hopeful for a couple of years until I can save money to get replacement running boards.

Before(day she arrived)

Under the "quick fix to sell"

Looked a lot better covered up...

Test fit and primed for over night

Left a little metal to connect the bondo to

Marked problem areas on door to fill dents

I removed the door handle to install the original for a functioning key, and removed mirror to blend the paint with a fresh coat over the entire door, same will be for driver.

third door is black so that will be more prep work.

 

Hey don. On the a/c stuff. Your truck.would be factory r134. Can only get it if you work at a shop with your ozone depletion ticket. I personally never use red tek. It is a flammable based gas and can cause issues but i have heard of lots of people using it. I personally would recommend getting the a/c system on a vaccum pump and see if it holds. If it does try to find a shop to charge it and add dye and try to track the leak.