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1996 Blazer - what year engines will work?

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Old 05-14-2013, 09:31 AM
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Default 1996 Blazer - what year engines will work?

I bought a 96 Blazer with a 100% seized solid engine. I'm working on getting it out and I'm looking for an engine to stick in it.

I was hoping to find out what year engines will work in a 96 Blazer. I read somewhere that some of the newer years have different sensors and stuff?

Once its running, I can't wait to fix it up!

Thanks!
Mark
 
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:01 AM
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96-97 for exact fit. If you have a 2wd you need a 2wd oil pan. The 4x4 is a different pan and has a remote oil filter relocation thing going on. 98+ can work but some sensors may not screw in, there are ways around this, just takes some "custom" work
 
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:10 AM
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I think any short block works which is all you need. For 98+ i think the only difference in the block is where the temp sensor goes. That's what i remember anyways but like Andrew said, there's always a way around anything else. 98+ Does use a a different pcm and wiring harness tho.
 
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:37 PM
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Thanks guys! Much appreciated! Sounds like to keep things simple stick with a 96-97 engine and out of a 4x4 to keep the right pan in place.

I have to hack apart my old pan while the seized engine is the car to work on disconnecting the torque converter, so I won't have a 4x4 pan to use with the replacement.
 
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by wrxin
I have to hack apart my old pan while the seized engine is the car to work on disconnecting the torque converter, so I won't have a 4x4 pan to use with the replacement.
At that point you might as well take the front end off (core support,radiator ect..) then take the engine and tranny out as one. That might save you the headache of getting to the TQ bolts in the truck and bell housing bolts.
 
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 97cherryblazer
At that point you might as well take the front end off (core support,radiator ect..) then take the engine and tranny out as one. That might save you the headache of getting to the TQ bolts in the truck and bell housing bolts.
Thank you for the suggestion. That's what I've been debating... I had three different methods presented when I asked:

1. hack the oil pan and take apart the bottom end
2. separate the engine and trans and leave the torque converter on the engine
3. take off the front end and take out the trans and engine

With #3 I'd still have to figure out how to get the engine separated but I supposed the oil pan would be much easier to remove once out of the car. I'd have to disconnect the A/C lines too and deal with freon but that's not too big a deal really. Take out the transfer case, disconnect lots of lines and all that.

I guess the other big advantage to #3 is not having to deal with the bell housing bolts.

Still not sure which approach to take...
 
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:17 AM
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Ha that's right that was you asking that.. but either way its no easy job, i just got done doing my neighbors 98 Jimmy. If i did it again im taking the tranny out too. Now if you had a 2 inch body lift on your truck like mine, getting the bell housing bolts would be cake so if you have intentions of doing a body lift i suggest you do it first lol.

Or you can find instructions for the body lift and jack up your body 2 inches after doing the required steps, which most of them you have to do when removing the engine anyway. That wouldn't take long and make your life way easier for the bell housing bolts anyways. If you decide to leave the tranny in i would at least raise the body. Yes the bell housing bolts on these are that big of a PITA if you don't have the right specialty sockets.

Just my opinion speaking from struggling with it once.
 
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:34 AM
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Sounds like you're in favor of pulling the engine and trans together. I already have the radiator out and plastic bits, so pulling the A/C "radiator" and the grill and core support will be easy.

Yeah that was me. I started a new thread to ask about the engine compatibility.

Thanks for your help!
 
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