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Yep, my picture. Was during assembly after inspection and cleaning things up on my AFR 195 heads for the 383 in my S10 racer. Those heads are a thing of beauty with CNC'd combustion chambers and ports.
I'm not seeing a noticable difference except for that one pushrod. Need to clean them up and roll them on the table unless you are replacing all of them. Also inspect the rockers well for funny wear and cracks - especially on #6.
Check 3rd pushrod and rocker and lifter from the front on the drivers side. Pushrod tip looks bad in photo
Les, those heads are beautiful, that engine is perfect. I saw it while I was looking through the forums here, I also saw you know how to paint an engine! I am looking to do mine too but I'll get to that. First off, I would have provided an update many days ago it's just I've been caught up in my courses lately. Also, I've been so lucky in the fact that spring is starting here and the roads don't have snow on them anymore so I took the cover off my summer car and have just been using that to get around, I'm not happy about it because there's still all the rocks and salt on the roads but it is what it is. That pushrod looks fine in real life it seems it was just the picture making it look a little weird. I ordered all those parts I mentioned before, should be in early next week. I got the hand valve lapping tool, I'm missing the rear main seal tool, valve spring compressor, lapping compound, and machinist blue. It seems the rear main seal tool is discontinued so I'm having a hard time finding it. I painted my headers with vht header paint, primer then bake then paint then bake, I'm really happy with how they turned out. Les, I need info on the best way to paint the engine here, I want to do the valve cover and heads red and the block black, leaving the oil pan silver. I assume it will be fine to paint it with the heads and oil pan off if I tape off the areas sufficiently? The last thing, I'm wondering what these yellow spots could be that are on the heads under the valve cover, pictures attached.
So regarding the painting of the engine, why black besides that being the color GM painted them? I'd think something that would contrast with the color of those things that could leak would be better. Ford blue or Mopar Orange would be better.
And if you really want to mess with people, paint it all Ford Blue and find some Blue-Oval stickers to put on the valve covers and intake plenum! LOL
Les, those heads are beautiful, that engine is perfect. I saw it while I was looking through the forums here, I also saw you know how to paint an engine! I am looking to do mine too but I'll get to that. First off, I would have provided an update many days ago it's just I've been caught up in my courses lately. Also, I've been so lucky in the fact that spring is starting here and the roads don't have snow on them anymore so I took the cover off my summer car and have just been using that to get around, I'm not happy about it because there's still all the rocks and salt on the roads but it is what it is. That pushrod looks fine in real life it seems it was just the picture making it look a little weird. I ordered all those parts I mentioned before, should be in early next week. I got the hand valve lapping tool, I'm missing the rear main seal tool, valve spring compressor, lapping compound, and machinist blue. It seems the rear main seal tool is discontinued so I'm having a hard time finding it. I painted my headers with vht header paint, primer then bake then paint then bake, I'm really happy with how they turned out. Les, I need info on the best way to paint the engine here, I want to do the valve cover and heads red and the block black, leaving the oil pan silver. I assume it will be fine to paint it with the heads and oil pan off if I tape off the areas sufficiently? The last thing, I'm wondering what these yellow spots could be that are on the heads under the valve cover, pictures attached.
I've been thinking about the rear main seal tool. You can easily find them by putting in the Kent Moore part number into Google or Ebay (J-35621). If you buy one, make sure it is complete and not just a piece of the tool. But I think you can do a good installation without the tool, since you have the engine out. Doing this would have you take the seal retainer off the engine to install the seal, and use a flat surface to evenly push the seal into it (using some Teflon head bolt sealer as temporary lubricant). Let me think some more and address this separately.
Exhaust manifolds look great. Biggest problem with painting is getting things clean and oil free. Heads and valve covers should not be a problem since you can clean them up thoroughly inside and out before painting. But the block you don't want to get stuff inside. To clean it I would turn it upside down on the engine stand, install the oil pan just snug, and scrub away after soaking down with mineral oil (not the fake stuff). Any drips should not go inside. Finish up with carb cleaner. Then remove the pan and gasket to paint it. Don't remove the front cover, or you will have to replace it to get it to seal properly again, but you may want to remove the water pump.
Can't tell if the yellow spots are paint or discoloration. If discoloration, then probably from exhaust valve heat. Nothing to worry about I believe.
FYI there are two black and silver engines of mine here on the forum that you have found photos of. One is the 383 stroker for my S10 racer (includes the aluminum cylinder head photo), and the other is the Blazer V-6.
Yes........ keep up with your studies first and make good choices regarding a significant other! Then you will be able to afford nice things 20 years from now! The time will go by in a heartbeat!
“Yes........ keep up with your studies first and make good choices regarding a significant other! Then you will be able to afford nice things 20 years from now! The time will go by in a heartbeat!”
Funny you say that Christine, I was thinking of doing blue but came to the conclusion that the whole truck is already blue so I think that would be too much blue lol. I will look more for that rear main seal tool Les, thanks so much for all of this info I will follow it when I paint the engine. I took the water pump off and painted that, also all the parts came in. I think I will paint the valve covers and heads next then the block hopefully this weekend. When you say I should put the oil pan back on, should I clean both surfaces? Use a gasket? The old gasket ripped coming off and I wouldn't want to use the new gasket when I'm taking it back off again after? Also, will the Permatex valve grinding compound work well for this? Here's something for you all, how safe do you think it is to wash the truck right now? It's covered in salt and dirt right now and it's driving me nuts looking at it every day the salt eating it up. I'm thinking I'll take the whole oil filter adapter assembly off with the oil filter, then plug the tranny cooler lines, put a bag over the bell housing, bag over the whole wiring harness, fuel lines are already plugged off so would I be good to wash it with these things done? Thanks for the words of advice guys!
Funny you say that Christine, I was thinking of doing blue but came to the conclusion that the whole truck is already blue so I think that would be too much blue lol. I will look more for that rear main seal tool Les, thanks so much for all of this info I will follow it when I paint the engine. I took the water pump off and painted that, also all the parts came in. I think I will paint the valve covers and heads next then the block hopefully this weekend. When you say I should put the oil pan back on, should I clean both surfaces? Use a gasket? The old gasket ripped coming off and I wouldn't want to use the new gasket when I'm taking it back off again after? Also, will the Permatex valve grinding compound work well for this? Here's something for you all, how safe do you think it is to wash the truck right now? It's covered in salt and dirt right now and it's driving me nuts looking at it every day the salt eating it up. I'm thinking I'll take the whole oil filter adapter assembly off with the oil filter, then plug the tranny cooler lines, put a bag over the bell housing, bag over the whole wiring harness, fuel lines are already plugged off so would I be good to wash it with these things done? Thanks for the words of advice guys!
I would use a new gasket (should be a 1-piece rubber) but don't tighten down - maybe only 6 bolts and just snug enough to keep stuff out. Then take oil pan and new gasket back off for painting after cleaning and drying. The Permatex stuff should work fine (also know you can dilute it with water to make it a little thinner). Don't worry about getting water on the wiring harness or front of transmission (with TC in place). I assume the radiator is out already? Be sure to block the torque converter from coming out if you try to move the vehicle. You may want to wait to paint heads until after you get them assembled. Will need to take them to the car wash to spray out residual lapping compound before putting valves back in them for the final time. You may want to source a small brush that will fit in valve guides. Good luck!
02-04-2022, 10:30 PM
That pushrod looks fine in real life it seems it was just the picture making it look a little weird. I ordered all those parts I mentioned before, should be in early next week. I got the hand valve lapping tool, I'm missing the rear main seal tool, valve spring compressor, lapping compound, and machinist blue. It seems the rear main seal tool is discontinued so I'm having a hard time finding it. I painted my headers with vht header paint, primer then bake then paint then bake, I'm really happy with how they turned out. Les, I need info on the best way to paint the engine here, I want to do the valve cover and heads red and the block black, leaving the oil pan silver. I assume it will be fine to paint it with the heads and oil pan off if I tape off the areas sufficiently? The last thing, I'm wondering what these yellow spots could be that are on the heads under the valve cover, pictures attached. 
