Your almost there!

 

Thanks Les and Hess, well guys, I have run out of parts to put back on the truck. I have the battery charging up in my garage for the night and also the distributor but everything else is back together! Now, I thought I had a bottle of new engine oil but turns out I don't so I'll go out tomorrow morning for that and some tranny fluid then should be able to fill everything up. I'm planning to use water as coolant for the first 1000km just so it will be easier to clean any possible leaks and I've also heard using water has a less chance of getting past the new head gasket while it's not broken in yet? I'm just a bit confused because if I fill up the rad there will still be no water in the block when I start it right? Is this fine or should I take out the thermostat and let some water into the block before I start it? Next, after I fill it up with oil I will prime the oil pump using a drill, I want to make sure clockwise is the right way to spin it? How do I know how much to prime it? After the engine has been primed and I'm ready to put the distributor in, I'll line up both marks on the crank with the timing cover and then try to slide the distributor in, if it doesn't slide in, I move the oil pump driveshaft until it lines up with the distributor? Once this has been done I will finally connect the battery and first clear any codes, then with the spark plugs and fuel pump relay disconnected I plan to crank the engine and make sure it sounds good with nothing binding. Then I will connect the spark plugs and fuel pump relay, prime the engine and make sure I have good fuel pressure at the port, then try starting the engine. Please let me know if I'm missing anything here Les!

 

Sounds like a plan!!

Have doubts about the water/head gasket thing but it wont hurt if thats what you want to do. No need to remove thermostat. Block will partially fill with water and you can add more after thermostat opens. With mine i had good luck parking it with nose uphill and just kept filling it until full and no more went in. Then add some extra in the coolant tank and it will suck that in when engine cools.

I would just prime the oil for a couple of munutes after you get oil pressure. Be sure to clamp plate on priming tool down so nothing can fall inside engine. Yes, clockwise.

Rest sounds just fine. You put distributor in before, right? Make sure you dont put in on TDC #4.

Any other concerns just ask.

 

Thanks a lot for this Les, today is the day! Wow, I am so nervous now. I've put the distributor in only once and I kept the gears and oil pump driveshaft lined up so I could slide it back in without setting TDC. As long as both marks are lined up on the crank with the timing cover and the rotor is pointed at the #1 position I will be good to put it in right? And with the priming, how will I be able to tell when the engine starts to get oil pressure? I've seen people take off the valve covers to make sure oil has made its way up into the rockers?

 

Actually you need to find TDC#1. Take #1 spark plug out and put your finger over the hole. Have someone tap the starter just a little at a time until you feel compression blow past your finger. The very next time the marks on balancer line up is TDC #1 (second time is TDC #4). Now drop the distributor in with rotor pointing at the #6 cast into the top of the cap mounting surface. It may not be absolutely exactly towards the #6 if you have the locking factory distributor clamp, but should definitely be on the tooth that has the rotor closest to pointing to the #6. Clear as mud, right?

You will feel the oil pressure hit when running the drill. Important thing is to ensure lube to the rod and main bearings. You put a little oil or grease on the valvetrain during assembly any way, right?

Believe it or not, I'm actually excited too!! First firing after major work is ALWAYS exciting!

 

Get 'er done. Good luck

George

 

Thanks Les, I didn't know about taking the spark plug out. So I'm seeing on another video someone did it by just spinning the crank pulley with a ratchet and feeling for air in the spark plug hole, I think I will try this way first. So after I feel the air blow past my finger the very next time the marks line up will be #1 TDC? I did put oil on the valvetrain during assembly, I guess I will prime it for 5 or so minutes after I feel the pressure then? Thanks George, I'm going to go get to it now!

 

Okay so I'm getting there, just a few things left to go. However, when I was checking the level of tranny fluid I noticed it was way overfilled, it goes all the way up until the dipstick starts spiraling? I have never had any need to check my tranny fluid level before so I'm not sure if it has been like this for a while or what. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Edit: I just pulled both tranny lines that go into the rad thinking there might be an internal leak, however with the rad full of water they were both still completely dry. I think I am just going to try and start it after I get the distributor back in now.

 

Level in trans goes up when shut off and fluid drains back into pan. Should be running and hot to check level accurately. Sounds like it is ok.

Yes if you can turn it over with a ratchet that is ok way to do it. Yes, next time marks line up after puff of compression.

 

Thanks Les, I am ready to start it now. I’ve cranked over the engine it sounds very good checked fuel pressure and that looks good. Just so nervous! I’ll let you guys know here.