Manual is just saying that the torque converter must be fully seated in the transmission front pump so it doesn't push on the flex plate when you bolt the transmission to the engine. Then afterwards you pull the torque converter forwards to meet the flex plate and bolt them together. You can measure distances to the torque converter with a straight edge across the trans bellhousing using a tape measure - then compare to distance from back of block to the flex plate mounting surface if you want to make sure torque converter is fully seated. Your assumption is correct.

If the connections aren't corroded, probably no real need to sand down. Just make sure to connect them all securely. Of course sanding down isn't going to hurt either.

If you take the passenger side exhaust manifold off, you could use one of the bolt holes on that side for the hoist (with rag to protect the valve cover paint, or removal of the valve cover). The other side could go to the front of the driver's side head. Probably many ways to do it, but I think the leveler thing dramatically complicates the mounting. But of course you can use it if you like.

Best wishes

 

Thanks a bunch for clarifying this Les, I'll take some measurements for the tc and make sure the engine is ready to go back in. I'll figure out something for the leveler tonight or tomorrow, I think I will use it just because that's what I've been using this whole time. One more thing has come to mind, I just want to make sure it would be fine to clean out the rad like I did the tranny lines? Maybe not using a pressure washer but with a garden hose at first? It too has been sitting on my garage floor with no plugs in it ever since taking it out.

 

I personally wouldn't try to clean out the oil cooler or transmission cooler in the radiator with anything, Too difficult to get any liquids back out and you don't want to circulate water in your oil or trans fluid. I think it is best to leave alone unless you know for fact that it is contaminated. If you're really worried, those radiators are under $100 from Summit (used to be $80) - new is clean. I had to replace the radiator (oil cooler) in mine per GM to make the warranty valid on my Goodwrench engine. They are worried about metal from failed engine parts in last engine circulating in oil and collecting in the oil cooler - then subsequently going through the new engine and doing damage. Fortunately, we know that that was not a problem with yours and chances are it is just fine as-is (kind of like the piston that got kissed by the valve).

Did you get your oil pump priming tool?

 

Thanks Les as always, I was a little worried about water staying in the tranny and oil coolers as well that's why I asked! I ended up just putting plugs in the tranny and oil cooler holes and then rinsing the rad out with a garden hose, should be good to go now. I also pushed the tc all the way into the front pump and took some measurements, I should definitely have enough space then I can just slide the tc back out once the engine is in. Finally, I hooked up the leveler and looked over everything one more time. To answer you Les, I do have the oil pump primer I'm just waiting for everything to be connected. If everything goes as planned tomorrow the engine should be back in!!

 

Great! FYI you may need to raise the front of the trans with a piece of wood and a floor jack while putting the engine in place, until the flex plate is entirely inside the bellhousing and the engine is rearward enough to drop onto the mounts. Just keep that info in your hip pocket in case you need it.

 

Thanks for this Les I'll keep it in mind, things did not go as planned today unfortunately... The engine hoist was returned by the last person with a leaking cylinder so it's getting sent out for repair and they won't have another one until Thursday, that's as long as the person using this one returns it on time. However, I've thought of another plan to put the engine in without the need for an engine hoist as I don't really want to sit around waiting for another few days just to find out this guy didn't return it on time. I'm thinking of just getting a manual chain hoist and setting that up in my garage, then roll the blazer in place under it and drop the engine in. I've taken the measurements and it would be tight but should work with a few inches to spare, I would just need to figure out how to take the tranny out of park and take off the roof rack so it will fit in the garage lol. I assume it would be fine to move around with the tranny just held in from the tranny mount? What do you guys think of this?

 

Sure, lots of engines done this way. A bit more difficult to position by moving the vehicle under the engine, but you can do it. Transmissions not connected to engine wiggle when moving vehicle. Make sure TC doesnt fall out on the ground. Been there, done that!

 

Thanks Les, I think I'm going to go out and grab a manual chain hoist today and see if I can make it work. I was a bit worried about the positioning as well, I was originally thinking to make something so the hoist can at least slide forward and back a bit but didn't really come up with anything. So I'm thinking I will just mark on the floor exactly where the hoist comes down before I roll the blazer in, then connect the engine and roll the blazer in trying to line up the mark on the floor with about where the middle of the engine would sit. If I have to do any minor adjustments from there I can just move the blazer forward or back. So I'm having some trouble finding out how to manually shift the tranny out of park with the battery disconnected? I found something that said it's under the shift boot so I took that off and still can't figure out how to release it. Les, do you know how to do this? Also, I'll hold the tc in when I move it with some chicken wire lol.

 

I didn't do this on my own Blazer, but I imagine you can easily take the linkage off the trans and manually shift the lever out of park. Anyone else have a better way?

 

Thanks Les, I got the hoist now and am all set up pretty much I just need to figure out the shifter situation. Would it be fine to put the battery back in for a second with all the ground wires not connected to the engine just so I can shift it into neutral?