HEY I GOT A 1996 CHEVY BLAZER V6 4.3LITER VORTECH MOTOR
98,000 ON IT JUST GOT IT 2WEEKS AGO DID OIL CHANGE, AIR FITLER, NEW BATTERY, FUEL FILTER
RUNS GREAT BUT THEN STARTED RUNNING ROUGH AS I AM DRIVING AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND DIED WHILE DRIVIN AND BRAKE LIGHT CAME UP ANDANTILOCKLIGHT THEN DIES..RAN CODE WAS TPS SENSOR, SO PUT NEW TPS SENSOR ON AND TOOK OFF EGR VALVE AND CLEANED IT OF CARBON AND PUT IT BAK ON RAN GREAT FOR 2DAYS THEN TODAY DIED ON ME SEVERAL TIMES. I JUST BOUT A NEW EGR VALVE AND GOT A TOMPCO GASKET WITH SCREEN PUT ON 2 DAYS AGO, RAN GOOD THEN TODAY, BRAKE LIGHT POPPED ON, ANTI LOCK LIGHT POPPED CHECK ENGIN THEN DIED, TURNS BACK ON THEN DOES THE SAME THING, iT DOES THIS AFTER I DRIVE IT FOR A WHILE AND MOTOR IS HOT, BUT THEN DOESNT DO IT WHEN ITS COOL, I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE PROBLEM COULD BE, PUT NEW EGR, TPS, FUEL FILTER, WHAT CAN IT BE IM STUMPED??? COULD IT BE MAS AIR FLOW SENSOR OR COMPUTER PROBLEM PLEASE HELP ME OUT????????????

 

CAN SUM ONE HELP ME OUT PLEASE

 

I give it a whirl.

Seems to me you have two unrelated problems, although they could be related and I just havne't come across them as a team yet.

brake lights indicate you have a fualt in your brake system- could be low on brake fluid. Reason it could be low on brake fluid is a leak or your brakes a wron out thus using more fluid in teh pistons. Simple solution is to add brake fluid. However the down side is you will need to pop the cap when you put on new brakes, you will have too much fluid in the system and it wil need to bleed off. If you havea leak, you need to find it. Look for fluid, wet spot. Have your brakes inspected, front and back.

ABS light indicates your ABS system has been turned off. Since you say he Brake light come on first, then the ABS light.This is a typical pattern. If the brakes are not functioning properly the puter will disable the Automatic brake system (ABS). Now if the ABS light comes on without the brake light then you either have a leak, failing part, one of your ABS wires or hub is damaged/dirty, or you have different sized tires on the same axle. Different sized tires could be due to a flat, just that it doesn't look flat, check your tire pressure, and while your looking write down the size of tires on all four corners.

Now if oyu have a 4x4 and are running two different sized tires. Smaller up front, bigger in back or vice versa, this will also trip the ABS light. The puter monitors the wheel speed of each front tire and compares it to the VSS (vehicle Speed Sensor) located int eh back end of the t-case (4wdr) or tranny (2wdr).

ther are some other issues if you have autotrac. Its a different t-case and comes in the Astro vans, and Bravadas. Since you mentioned Blazer I assume you dont have autotrac.


as for the engine dieing, are you sure your not in 4hi?
If your in 4hi it will also trip your brake light, ABs light, and will bind up the drivetrain to the point it can kill the engine when going slow. It will also make one hell of a noise, however if your stereo is too loud you may never hear it. however the steering wheel will get harder and harder to turn.



Alright, if hte truck is not in 4x4 mode, then your dieing at higher temps is most likely due to your ICM (ignition control modual). They tend to fail when hot and work again when cool. Next step is total fialure and your next thread will be my truck wont start and I have replaced the fuel filter, what could it be? take your ICM out and have your local Auto parts store test it. Make sure they test it like 20 times in a row, you want it tested while hot, carefull it will be hot to the touch and will burn your fingers. The ICM is attached to a heat disapation bracket and has a special grease between it and the bracket. You MUST put on new grease everytime you take the ICM off. Failure to do so will lead to a fialed ICM.


Lastly, your fuel pump. You changed the fuel pump, however that is no garuntee that you are getting proper fule pressure to the engine. The fuel pump is cooled by the gas it pumps, if you drive around on 1/4 or less all the time you wil kill the fuel pump quickly and could run into other perforamnce issues. More gas is pumped to the engine then the engine can consume, even at Wide Open Trottle (WOT), the excess fuel is returned to the gas tank. If your running low on fuel, the fuel off the engine could be hotter then the fuel in the tank and eventually the fuel in the tank will get hot, thus casueing vapor lock. Vapor lock is when there is too much air in the fuel, not enough fuel is delivered, the engine chokes to death. Fuel cools and everything is hunky dory again. Vapor lock is rare, however it is possible so be aware of it. The main jist is to keep your tank full.

Get your fuel pressure tested, however generally the first sign of a fialing fuel pump is fialure to start right away, it may take a couple of cranks to get the truck to start, or it may start after a few seconds. It is supposed to start within 1-2 seconds. Anything longer and I would have your fuel pump tested.


Post up. Eventualy we will find the problem.

Helps to know as much about the vehicle as possible. Is this truck a auto tranny or manual, 2wdr or 4x4. They make a difference. You got the long version. Sorry!


PS Stop YELLING. Typing in all caps is considered yelling on the web and not a very good way to get help.

 

Another option, corroded battery cables. When they get hot they lose connection, killing hte truck. Look for green on the wireing under the sheathing. If oyu have green on the wire, replace them.

By the way, when ever the engine isn't running your idiot lights will light up. Those systems fail when teh engine dies. I bet your oil light came on too. What is critical is the sequence in which they came on.


One last thing, check your radiator coolant. What color is it, and is it full?

 

Blazed out I was thinking since you got the code for the TPS initially it could still be ralted somehow. Just because you replaced the part doesn't mean you got a good part (which is rare but does happen). This sensor monitors the position of the throttle in the engine but is also connected to ignition timing and your fuel injectors - It's gotta be one of the three.
You might want to check the WOT sensor as well. Hope this helps.

 

Do not rule out wiring damage either. You can test the TPS by back probing the sensor signal wire to the PCM. You should see values of around 0.5V at closed throttle and it should smoothly increase to around 4.5V at WOT (wide open throttle). There is no WOT sensor, only the TPS sensor.