96 chevy blazer sputtering please help
#42
I dont think changing the cam shaft sensor will work but who knows, ive done everything i know possible researching and asking questions....
ive gotten to the point of buying a new ECM installing that and still getting 10.1-10 volts
at the prongs of the coolant temp sensor. because the diagnostics chart on this site lead me to that
there is a reason why both these ECM's are sending this voltage and dont know why.
ive tested both sensors, and wires going from the connect to the ECM still got 10 volts. and theres no breaks in the lines... so idk what to do next
but for a laugh the new ECM got rid of my ABS light lol to bad im sending it back
HOW I TEST THE CONNECTION TO THE SENSOR (I FOLLOWED THE DIAGNOSTICS CHART) but dont have a scan tool so used multitool
now the way i test the voltage was as so:
with car on engine off both leads where put into both prongs got a reading of around 10 volts
ok
next step was to ground off one prong (which it did not say specificly which prong) so i put hot lead into hot prong and put a wire into ground prong and grounded off onto a screw and grounded the other lead to another part of the body and still go 10+ reading
ok
then bridge them together with a wire tested near the prongs on the wire got not reading
also put in a new PCM and still get the high voltage with car on engine off so im lost
ive gotten to the point of buying a new ECM installing that and still getting 10.1-10 volts
at the prongs of the coolant temp sensor. because the diagnostics chart on this site lead me to that
there is a reason why both these ECM's are sending this voltage and dont know why.
ive tested both sensors, and wires going from the connect to the ECM still got 10 volts. and theres no breaks in the lines... so idk what to do next
but for a laugh the new ECM got rid of my ABS light lol to bad im sending it back
HOW I TEST THE CONNECTION TO THE SENSOR (I FOLLOWED THE DIAGNOSTICS CHART) but dont have a scan tool so used multitool
now the way i test the voltage was as so:
with car on engine off both leads where put into both prongs got a reading of around 10 volts
ok
next step was to ground off one prong (which it did not say specificly which prong) so i put hot lead into hot prong and put a wire into ground prong and grounded off onto a screw and grounded the other lead to another part of the body and still go 10+ reading
ok
then bridge them together with a wire tested near the prongs on the wire got not reading
also put in a new PCM and still get the high voltage with car on engine off so im lost
Last edited by nathaniel1988; 10-14-2011 at 08:51 PM.
#44
no more p0118 coolant code
well guys finally found my problem and i have to say it was a pain in my a** well with all the problems i now just have a misfire code probably from driving with the p0118 coolant code for several months, carbon build up, plugs, and wires need to be cleaned.... well i used 4 different sensors for the p0118 code and all did the same, light went off for couple of minutes and came back on well checked every wire from sensor to cmp and all good replaced the cmp and still same thing well the brands of sensors i used where from autozone and orielys i decided one day to by a delphi coolant sensor online, just a thought and wow to my surprise got rid of the terrible miss and bad MPG all my headache due to crappy "new" parts so guys anything dealing with sensor or electrical dont go cheap use what these guys say bc you can misjudge everything and end up in a hole.... my next task is to change hubs and ball joints got road noise and popping in front end with over 200 thousand on her and its original im sure it needs it thanks for all the help guys and advice and if anyone has any question feel free to message me peace, love, and chicken grease
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