just replace intake manifold gasket and now the engine oil pressure is like 0 at idle and raises when driving it will go around 30psi at 1800rpms so what gives here and Ive noticed a slight noise while accelerating so what do u think? has 130k mile on it allso and have owned it for maybe three weeks at the most payed 2600 for a piece of ****

 

Make sure that you did not break the oil pressure switch when reinstalling the intake and associated parts. It is common for someone to snap off the housing and not notice it till later. It is next located under and to the drivers side of the distributor. have you looked at the oil? Check to see if it is milky looking. If so, do not start or run the engine. change the oil and filter. Coolant can get into the oil pan when removing the intake manifold. Check it out and let me know!!

 

Well took the front transfer case loose so I could take my oilpan off and hrs later got off and found metal shreds stuck too the oilpump screen and the rods looks good just little wear and then the second main bearing was ruined it had slipped by the notch where bearing locks and was spinning around and cutting the edge off bearing wow it sucks, the bearings say gm45 and dont look like its been turned so hopefully a new pump all new standard bearings and polish the scratches on the crank and hopefully will run again and stay together. wish had more money for just a new crank too but i am taking the oil filter relocation lines off and washing them out with carb cleaner and then spray everybit of the crank and everything i can reach with cleaner and place new bearing in it. bad idea???

 

The problem with your method of swapping the bearings (I am assuming the engine is still in the vehicle) is that you will not be able to get assembly lube on the top of the replacement main bearings. You can get a complete crank kit at Autozone or Oreilly's for about $200 which includes matching bearings. In addition, if the bearing you speak of spun with the crankshaft then you are running the risk that the main bearing bore got damaged (either out of round or enlarged slightly) You can look at the cross hatching on the cap and tell if the bearing spun with the crankshaft. The lines will not look like crosshatching, they will be lines running the same direction that the bearing lays in the cap. Anything worth doing is worth doing right, the first time. As for your bearing having the GM45 on it I would say that it is standard bearing size. Now, If you decide to go ahead and just put new bearing in the engine after cleanup buy one standard bearing and get some plasti-gage from an autoparts store and verify oil clearances before you buy a whole set of bearings. There are .001 and .002 oversized bearings available to get the clearance within specs. Just because one measures larger and requires oversized bearings does not mean they all do, so check all with the bearing you purchased to check oil clearance. Aim for the middle of the oil clearance spec. When measuring the oil clearance do not have oil on the bearing. This will throw off your measurement. You might have to go on line or to a local machine shop to order the oversized bearings. As for the crankshaft, if you can run your fingernail across the cranks bearing surface and feel the scratches you should just pull the crank and buy a crank kit. Just make sure that the spun bearing did not damage the main journal in the block as described earlier.

 

Camaroman knows his stuff!!!

There are hazards in doing what 97 blazer is attempting but this is the best way to treat it without a full rebuild.
The danger, of course is debris from the bearing spin in the oiling galleys plus journal dressing residue being distributed.

I might suggest what we used to do in the old days to lesson the chances of re-do was rig a hose from the oil pump pickup into a couple gallons of diesel fuel and rig an old distr shaft without gear to a high speed drill to drive the pump. Without the mains installed, this will do the best job possible without dissassembling the engine. For the crank, detach rod caps and blow out, using pressure fed diesel fuel, preferred.
[sermon]
I would like to point out again that the usual cause of bearing spin after coolant in oil damages bearings is the carbon built up around the damaged bearing surface breaking loose and wedging.
This is why a synthetic with higher temp ash properties should be run after that happens.[/sermon]