97 Chevy Blazer LS 4WD 4DR = Time to rebuild the engine.
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 4

need to remove the engine. any tips?
Last edited by DA B BLAZER; 04-16-2010 at 01:11 AM.
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 752

If you have small hands you can get to the upper bellhousing bolts from the top(they arn't extremly tight, wife or GF could be able to get them if required).
Unbolt the transmission mount and lift it as high as you can without damaging anything. There are vacuum lines and harnesses up there I know. At that point, it may give a bit more room up around the distributor. Pull the cap and rotor. Not sure if there is a module, but that plug on the rear of it really hurts. If that can be removed you'd be homefree. That was the hardest part of the transmission removal for me. Other than that, be sure to label wires and hoses. I know the harnesses usually only fit in one place, but it's easier when it says IAC or MAP or Dist. than just trial and error. If there is anything that looks the same, be sure to label it. Take your time and remember where everything goes.
Unbolt the transmission mount and lift it as high as you can without damaging anything. There are vacuum lines and harnesses up there I know. At that point, it may give a bit more room up around the distributor. Pull the cap and rotor. Not sure if there is a module, but that plug on the rear of it really hurts. If that can be removed you'd be homefree. That was the hardest part of the transmission removal for me. Other than that, be sure to label wires and hoses. I know the harnesses usually only fit in one place, but it's easier when it says IAC or MAP or Dist. than just trial and error. If there is anything that looks the same, be sure to label it. Take your time and remember where everything goes.
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 4

ok so igot to the part when i can finaly see the engine. lots of wires on the back of the engine that i can not unplug. what do i do? (i will post the picture tmrw)
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Nebraska
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Yeah, I'm not to impressed with the way GM chose to route everything on these. Either that or a previous owner was an idiot. I'm thinking the latter.
#5
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HOW do i paste the picture in my reply FROM MY COMPUTER? not from the internet.
Last edited by DA B BLAZER; 04-16-2010 at 10:40 PM.
#6
#7
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Location: Minnesota
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see that screw? it fell out of the oil pan when i was draining oil out of the engine. any ideas where is it from?
Last edited by swartlkk; 04-18-2010 at 06:05 PM. Reason: **Combining Consective Posts** - Please use the EDIT feature to add information to your post if another member has yet to reply.
#8
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Nebraska
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The only bolt I can think of that would be that small is a timing sprocket bolt. Other than that they will either be nuts(rod caps/rockers) or bolts(mains/heads) Those are going to be way to long and not possibly fall out let alone out the pan drain hole.
Now you're really going to need to check things out. I suppose those can come loose since they make little retainers for the bolts.
Now you're really going to need to check things out. I suppose those can come loose since they make little retainers for the bolts.
#9
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 8

Hi!
I finished rebuild my engine( 4.3 w Blazer2000) two monthes ago.
Few tips:
First of all:disconnect electrical Harness from every connection and move it to passenger side(unbolt fuse box and disconnect harness from it ).It's make a lot space and less access problems.
1. Remove air filter with completely.
2.Move a/c compressor to passenger side.
3.Remove ventilator and it's covers from radiator.
4.Move steering pamp forward.
5.remove water pump completely.
6.Remove intake manifold(lower and upper together) including distributor removal.
7.Disconnect ground wires from the back of engine ( each of it connected
to cilinder head).
8.Disconnect fuel lines strap from the back of the engine( you have access from
driver's side of the car-you need remove wheel).
9.Disconnect and remove exhaust manifolds from both sides of the engine .
10.Remove starter with mount to get access to fly wheel .
11.Mark connection fly wheel to torque converter with Paint thrue this access
window.
12.Disconnect fly wheel from torque converter.
13.support bell housing .
14.disconnect engine mounts from the frame.
15.Start to lift engine a little bit,then move it a little forward to disconnect from
the torque converter.
16.watch to do not remove converter from the bell housing.
17. Now you can lift the engine .
If you have any questions about-I'm ready to help if i can.
I finished rebuild my engine( 4.3 w Blazer2000) two monthes ago.
Few tips:
First of all:disconnect electrical Harness from every connection and move it to passenger side(unbolt fuse box and disconnect harness from it ).It's make a lot space and less access problems.
1. Remove air filter with completely.
2.Move a/c compressor to passenger side.
3.Remove ventilator and it's covers from radiator.
4.Move steering pamp forward.
5.remove water pump completely.
6.Remove intake manifold(lower and upper together) including distributor removal.
7.Disconnect ground wires from the back of engine ( each of it connected
to cilinder head).
8.Disconnect fuel lines strap from the back of the engine( you have access from
driver's side of the car-you need remove wheel).
9.Disconnect and remove exhaust manifolds from both sides of the engine .
10.Remove starter with mount to get access to fly wheel .
11.Mark connection fly wheel to torque converter with Paint thrue this access
window.
12.Disconnect fly wheel from torque converter.
13.support bell housing .
14.disconnect engine mounts from the frame.
15.Start to lift engine a little bit,then move it a little forward to disconnect from
the torque converter.
16.watch to do not remove converter from the bell housing.
17. Now you can lift the engine .
If you have any questions about-I'm ready to help if i can.
#10
Does that screw have a Torx head ? Kinda hard to see but, looks a little like one of the Distributor cap screws?
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