97 Rocker Valve Adjustment
#121
This should give you an overview.
Concentrate on one cylinder - nice animation to show how it works.
The larger valve is the intake, the smaller one the exhaust.
The V6 is pretty much the same except for 2 cylinders less and a different spacing of the rods.
You have to concentrate on a single cylinder anyways.
This one has a nice animation - no spark thou but you can figure when it is on TDC compression stroke.
@ 0:30
Concentrate on one cylinder - nice animation to show how it works.
The larger valve is the intake, the smaller one the exhaust.
The V6 is pretty much the same except for 2 cylinders less and a different spacing of the rods.
You have to concentrate on a single cylinder anyways.
This one has a nice animation - no spark thou but you can figure when it is on TDC compression stroke.
@ 0:30
#122
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 220

OK I checked the position of the distributor before I even tried to pull it. Timing lines lined up and rocker arms flat, pointer on the "6". Seems correct, but if its 180 degrees off then will the pointer still point at the "6" and rocker arms be flat ? Or is this correct timing ?
#123
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 338

Im sorry if you did this i just want to make sure.
You did spin the engine with the valve cover off just to make sure you on the compression stroke right?
The is a small amount of time on the exhaust/intake stroke when both valves are closed. This is when it is transitioning between exhaust and intake.
If you spin it you will see the exhaust valve open and close then the intake valve open and close. then they will stay shut for awhile.
When they stay shut awhile that is the compression stroke.
If it was 180 degrees off the pointer would be pointing in the exact opposite direction.
You did spin the engine with the valve cover off just to make sure you on the compression stroke right?
The is a small amount of time on the exhaust/intake stroke when both valves are closed. This is when it is transitioning between exhaust and intake.
If you spin it you will see the exhaust valve open and close then the intake valve open and close. then they will stay shut for awhile.
When they stay shut awhile that is the compression stroke.
If it was 180 degrees off the pointer would be pointing in the exact opposite direction.
Last edited by ChuckNTruck; 06-26-2017 at 05:33 PM.
#124
Hehe - working on the same problem.
Just slightly different now. Have to adjust the valvetrain on a 1963 Studebaker AVANTI. The bugger has a huge hex on the crank pulley. Have to find a nut for that one now to turn it over by hand.
If somebody is there when I do the job I'll have him video a couple revolutions.
Just slightly different now. Have to adjust the valvetrain on a 1963 Studebaker AVANTI. The bugger has a huge hex on the crank pulley. Have to find a nut for that one now to turn it over by hand.
If somebody is there when I do the job I'll have him video a couple revolutions.
#125
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 220

I'm going to try to start it and drive it today if I get it started. If things don't go well, I'm removing the engine and replacing it. My friend says it'll be a bad *** Blazer if I put a 327 in it. Is that possible and if so, what adjustments would I have to make ?
#128
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 220

Can't afford a hoist, can't afford a tow, don't have anywhere to store the engine while I take mine out. Engine swap wasn't possible. I'm selling it $700 to buy this : 95 GMC Jimmy 4x4. Reverse is out but i can easily pull a tranny rather than an engine
Last edited by Tynan Tha Real Dill; 07-05-2017 at 10:18 AM.
#130
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 220

OK I bought the 1995 GMC Jimmy 4.3 262CBI Vortec. The bad :
1. Reverse is out, it jumps into gear but doesn't move backwards.
2. Bad acceleration, I can hold gas pedal to the floor and go no where, until I pump it then it will slowly gain acceleration. Jumps thru gears with no problem. Took it on the highway home last night, got several miles @ 55mph and the passengers side under the truck started smoking. Jumped off the highway to main streets @ 25-35mph, and it stopped smoking and still continued to shift fine, when it could due to slow acceralation. Idles @ 500-700 rpms. Sometimes "pops" when I try to accelerate it. As I'm accelerated, and I'm coming to a stop, I can hear a rattling noise as I stop.
Those are my 2 only problems. I'm guessing fuel filter replacement, transmission filter replacement, new tranny fluid , new spark plugs, and an oil change? Truck has 190k on it. Engine fires up and idles fine, until I try to accelerate and drive. Drivable, just takes some pumps to get it going.
1. Reverse is out, it jumps into gear but doesn't move backwards.
2. Bad acceleration, I can hold gas pedal to the floor and go no where, until I pump it then it will slowly gain acceleration. Jumps thru gears with no problem. Took it on the highway home last night, got several miles @ 55mph and the passengers side under the truck started smoking. Jumped off the highway to main streets @ 25-35mph, and it stopped smoking and still continued to shift fine, when it could due to slow acceralation. Idles @ 500-700 rpms. Sometimes "pops" when I try to accelerate it. As I'm accelerated, and I'm coming to a stop, I can hear a rattling noise as I stop.
Those are my 2 only problems. I'm guessing fuel filter replacement, transmission filter replacement, new tranny fluid , new spark plugs, and an oil change? Truck has 190k on it. Engine fires up and idles fine, until I try to accelerate and drive. Drivable, just takes some pumps to get it going.
Last edited by Tynan Tha Real Dill; 07-07-2017 at 08:12 AM.





