Yep, agree - he does have those valve covers off and could simply watch the rockers as an alternative!!

 

Ok the size socket for the screw in rocker studs is 15mm, I just pulled out the stud today and replaced the studs, but I need to torque them. What's the torque specifications for these rocker studs ? I also Teflon taped the threads (pic)

 

ok so I need to torque the rocker nuts to 20lbs on each when the piston is TDC/All the way up on compression stroke. Correct me if I'm wrong, but 1 complete revolution of the harmonic balancer is considered a "stroke" and during that revolution/stroke and can be either intake or exhaust.. Right ? And if so, how can I tell its on the right/compression stroke on each piston ? By simply watching the rods on each cylinder go all the way up ? Rods all the way up, is closed right ?

 

Torque Specs look correct ?

 

Seem correct to me.

 

No it doesn't matter at all where the piston is when putting the rockers on - just torque the rocker nuts to 20 ft lbs wherever the engine is at - there is no valve adjustment.

the rest of this is only for dropping the distributor in correctly.

One complete rev of the balancer is 2 strokes, as the piston goes up and down during this time. In a 4-stroke engine each cylinder fires every 2 revolutions of the crankshaft. On this V-6, a different cylinder fires every 1/3 turn. 6 x 1/3 = 6/3 = 2 revolutions and you are back to TDC#1. When the timing marks on the balancer are lined up, you have a 50:50 chance of being on TDC#1. The other possibility is TDC#4.

When a cylinder fires, both of the valves are closed so it build compression right before. So if you have the valve covers off, the valves for #1 should not be moving as the marks come into alignment. Otherwise you can also use the finger over the spark plug hole to tell when you are getting compression.

Good luck! Ask about anything that you don't understand.

 

ok I have the replacement studs in and torqued at 35 lbs, the rocker arms in and torqued at 20lbs (this didnt seem as hard to tighten this time as much as when we first started), replaced that upper plastic intake gasket, put back the throttle cables, then putting the cap on the distributor, adding "newer" plug wires, and new spark plugs (NGK V-Power), plug in and plug up everything...then should I try to fire it up ?

The pic of the upper intake is with the damaged gasket, most bolts on that side were loose. What would cause that damage ? And with that much air getting in from the upper intake, could that cause a no start too ?

 

OK, I got everything put back together and started it up. It ran about a minute, then made a popping noise and died. Checked around the engine and I had a little smoke coming from the throttle body. Waited some time, then I got my video camera ready, started recording, and I got this ....(YouTube video link). Starts up slow, then idle RPM shoot up to near 1500, then as idle RPM decreases, the engine stalls. Notice the light knocking sound too ?? What does that sound like ??

https://youtu.be/h6f-ZFydPes

 

That engine sounds like it has quite a few issues. First The way it cranks sounds like it may have jumped a tooth on the timing gear set or the distributor is a tooth off. Second that loud knocking sounds very much like a knock from the bottom end and Third it sounds like the valve train is rattling. Did you have any oil pressure when that video was made? I know earlier in the thread you talked about taking the pan off and checking the bearings. What bearing did you check and are you sure you put the bottom end back together correctly.
I would honestly look for another engine with how that one sounds.

 

When you spun the engine and broke the screwdriver tip in cyl 1, did the screwdriver tip force the engine to stop turning? Were you using the starter to turn the engine over or turning by hand?
I am wondering this because if the engine was spinning with enough force and that piston was stopped it could have bent a rod and the knocking sound is that rod contacting something.