Dead center sounds like a water pump seal leak to me. The bleeder hole could be on top or on bottom of the water pump. Pump is attached to the fan blades. Where the pump attaches to the engine block in the center is the bleeder hole. You may not be able to see it, however you should be able to get a finger on it. If its wet, replace the water pump.

http://www.autozone.com/images/produ...vc-9020003.jpg

Should be able to see the hole in this pic.
Orientate it to your engine. That pump is for a '00 S10-Blazer 4x4, although it should be generic to all 4.3l engines.


No white smoke is a good sign, sounds like you leak is not internal. Although, how does your oil look? If that checks out, check your tranny fluid too. If both of those look good, then your radiator isn't leaking internally, and I doubt you have a head gasket leak.

We still havent ruled out intake manifold gasket or a leaking rad hose. Water will follow the path of least resistence, and it always runs down hill.Leaking around the front of the engine dead cneter pretty much means your leak is up front, front intake manifold gasket, water pump, or one of the water hoses. Now you need to eliminate or better yetfind the leak.If thisleak has been happening for a while you should see some white residue where it leaks when everything is dry and cool.

Happy hunting.

 

Thanks for the great information! I will check the hoses today for any leaks and try to get a better view of everything...

If the pump needed to be replaced, should I flush the system of all the crap FIRST, THEN install the good pump? I'd hate to install a new pump and contaminate it with bad coolant when I flush it... Or would I have to fix the leak first to get a proper flush?

Thanks,
Nick

 

Won't matter to the water pump one way or the other. Not much will get stuck tot eh inside of a water pump.

Another test, take of the serp belt and see if the water pump is loose, as in moves up and down.

Leave the serp belt on to loosen the fan bolts.

I find hte best way to drain the cooling system is to remove the lower rad hose from teh water pump, it'll dump everything so keep your shoes out of the way. I prefer not to use the peacock valve on the radiator for a couple of reasons. Pain in the butt to get to, and if it doesnt seal agian you have to fix that too. You have to remove the lower rad hose to replace the water pump, might as well do it to drain the system. To flush the system I prefer to take out the thermostat and stuff my garden hose in the thermostat opening and then in teh rad cap opening. Then reverse the flow and stuff it where the water has been running out.


you must be someplace warm. Today its -3 degrees and with the wind chill its -25 degrees out. The ice storm frooze all the trees, and todays 25-30 mph winds are going to clean out any loose, or half dead trees, branches. It'll look like a war zone by the end of th day.

 

Wow... I thought I had it bad here... haha

Good idea with the lower rad hose... And I'll have to try and take the belt off and look for any movement...

I appreciate all the help.

Nick

 

Yes! I finally have great heat!

I flushed the system today via the heater core T that was installed when I bought the truck. I hooked it up to the HOT tap water line in the workshop and flushed three times. Then I opened the radiator drain and flushed that some... I didn't use any flushing chemical, but I will be flushing with the Prestone powder after I get the leak fixed... I put in the coolant/water and have still been getting leaks, but the good news is that I'm getting heat now... And after waiting about 2 hours, the coolant level is still up to the radiator neck when cold.

Now I'm pretty sure the problem is with the water pump, but at least I can drive it to a shop and have them tell me without having to find a clear patch in the windshield that's not frozen to look through while driving...

Thanks for all the help! Now I can actually enjoy driving this new truck now.

Nick