I'm doing a rear main seal on my 89 blazer and got most of the bolts to break loose except one on the bell housing Driver's side second bolt up. I've tried breaker bar and extensions with a socket on the end and a wobblie with a socket. I've brought the transmission down as far as I can on my floor jack still can't get a good bite. And I can't get the ole double wrench on it either. Afraid I'm gonna round it out. Anyone got a tip to get this sucker to come loose?

 

Consider putting at least one bolt back in on the opposite side and tighten it reasonably well. Sometimes when the case splits slightly it will exert so much pressure on the bolt that you cannot brake it loose. As soon as the whole is back in place it unloads this bolt. Loosen it and then remove all the bolts. I go about this by loosening all the bolts 1/4 turn then another 1/4 turn all around, then take them out.

Consider the removal of the distributor as it allows the engine/tranny to tilt even more. Worst case cut the bolt. A pneumatic saw with a short blade could probably be fumbled in.

Another possibility is to properly locate the bolt and as others on the forum have done, cut the floor pan. I would NOT consider this to be an option. The opening will become quite large and rust prevention afterwards is a nightmare.

Not much help, I know, but pulling the engine with the transmission is usually the easiest way. Don't forget to put at least 4 bolts back into the tranny when doing so or it can brake off when lifting it out. Also remove the distributor or it will break when hitting the firewall. I would definitively remove the radiator to make room.

 

I have only removed one bolt and that was for the dipstick. And all the others are just broke loose maybe a whole turn or two on them. I have done a few rear mains to know not to take all the way out until they are all broke loose. Unfortunately I don't have a cherry picker to remove engine I seen a couple people say to lift the body and was wondering how time consuming and difficult it was? Does anybody know which bolts I need to loosen or remove to raise the body just enough to get to said bolt? I have a few yrs as a "backyard mechanic and got some experience doing different repairs but never tried lifting the body. And I will look into removing the distributor.

 

I did mine last year, iirc I used a shallow snap-on 6 point socket for the bolt, then a wobble extension pulled partially out to get more angle, then a bunch of 3/8’s extensions and a breaker bar.
Its a good idea to pull the distributor, then pull down on the tail shaft of the trans while you’re doing this to get that extra bit of clearance.

I totally agree with a previous post not to cut a hole in the floorpan. I may have split the motor mounts by pulling down, but it didn’t matter to me since I upgraded to JTR mounts.

Good luck

 

I usually use one of these:


With a 36" long impact extension that's 1/2" drive with a 3/8" male end. A 1/2" impact wrench will zip them right out.

 

Ok so I ended up down at Napa and bought the swivel socket and taught that bolt a lesson. Now I'm at the flywheel and come to find out half of them are stripped and can't find a wrench or a socket to fit. And when I do, stangly enough it's a 14mm, I find a grab point and can't break it loose. I was wondering how much, if any damage would happen if I used a lil torch and wax to remove the bolts? Btw ty for offering ur time and advise it is appreciated

 

A reasonable amount of heat won't hurt anything, but don't go crazy. Try to limit the heat to the bolt itself as much as possible. Then replace the bolts, of course.