My 4x4, vacuum/idle dilemma
#1
I've done some searching and have looked at the sticky for inop 4x4 diagnosis..
But my problem is different. When I got the vehicle the 4x4 did work
, but now it doesn't. I tested my actuator with a vacuum pump and it still moves free. I hear the transfer case motor shifting. after I had my battery disconnected it shifted into 4hi while driving and 4lo at a stop, but would go out while moving and blink. I believe I have a vacuum leak some where and or a plugged Line reason being while im driving the car idles high If I throw it in nuetral it will go up to 1500 or so. But as I start to slow down the idle also goes down.
But my problem is different. When I got the vehicle the 4x4 did work
, but now it doesn't. I tested my actuator with a vacuum pump and it still moves free. I hear the transfer case motor shifting. after I had my battery disconnected it shifted into 4hi while driving and 4lo at a stop, but would go out while moving and blink. I believe I have a vacuum leak some where and or a plugged Line reason being while im driving the car idles high If I throw it in nuetral it will go up to 1500 or so. But as I start to slow down the idle also goes down.
#2
BF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: SW Central OH
Posts: 2,253


What about idling at a stop when just started and at warmed up?
You seem to have multiple problems.. pointing to POSSIBLY:
IAC
TPS
And
Vacuum leaks
Not to mention flaky 4WD sel sw.
How about testing all vacuum takeoffs for acc's first. Disc lines and pull vacuum see if they will hold it for reasonable time. meaning a few seconds at the least.
Dont forget the brake booster.
You seem to have multiple problems.. pointing to POSSIBLY:
IAC
TPS
And
Vacuum leaks
Not to mention flaky 4WD sel sw.
How about testing all vacuum takeoffs for acc's first. Disc lines and pull vacuum see if they will hold it for reasonable time. meaning a few seconds at the least.
Dont forget the brake booster.
#3
I got a tps code a while back nothing since. At idle at a light it idles around 650-700rpm. I have been trying to find a vacuum diagram with no luck I'll take a look at the iac. But unsure how it may effect engine rpms while driving the 4x4 I'm at a loss too where any vacuum lines to the tcase are at
#4
BF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: SW Central OH
Posts: 2,253


Sometimes it's really hard to make myself understood.
What counts is the no-load idle. That means in park or neutral, cold start and warmed up states.
And how solid it is. I cant go into all the logic in this thread but belive me you dont NEED a vac diagram at this point.
You are testing the tubes as attached to the plenum. I'm sure you can find them without a map. If they all hold vac you probably wont need the diagram anyway but you HAVE to eliminate them.
If the no-load idle is high in either state, disconnect the IAC before starting. Then start engine.
- This can be used as a alt. vac test. Remove vac lines one at a time and put finger over plenum port. If rpm changes, BINGO!
What is it now? If it doesnt vary from before, you either have a sticky/stuck IAC or a vacuum leak. Why you need to isolate the accessory vacuum as a cause.
Last edited by pettyfog; 09-29-2011 at 12:05 PM.
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