|
Oil cooler line delete on 4x4?
I am sick and tired of my oil cooler lines leaking. I have gone through 2 dorman sets and a gm triple crimp set. they still drip from the crimps. before I throw on set #4 I am wondering if I remove the cooler adapter from the block and install the threaded adapter will there be enough room for a short style filter on the block? im thinking there will not be enough room because it is a 4x4. cant find anyone whos done this . im assuming for a reason. but is it possible? I don't tow a heavy trailer and im well aware that the lines serve a purpose. just tired of leaks .
|
1 Attachment(s)
Why not fix it right with 1/2" hydraulic line? Got sick of mine leaking years ago, dry as a bone ever since. Need four 1/2" compression to 1/2" hydraulic adapters and two pieces of 1/2" hydraulic line. Any shop that makes hydraulic hoses can make them for you. Attach the compression fittings to the original aluminum tubes...done. Don't even have to remove the rear set of lines to do it.
Attachment 31416 |
that is an excellent idea. being hydraulic hose and crimps im sure they hold up? my whole goal for this is one less part to fail. im going to be needing to do an overhaul soon as last oil change I had quite a bit of metal in the oil. of course this was only after I bent a valve last fall. replaced the head and all seemed fine but I developed a ticking noise cant find it for the life of me. but I assume its where the metal is coming from. either way its not good so I just wanted to eliminate the lines for peace of mind . do you know for sure if a short spin on filter will fit at the block and clear the front driveshaft?
|
also may or may not be planning a v8 swap if this motor goes . haven't decided.
|
The hydraulic hose must be compatable with engine oil. Some hydraulic hoses are more flexible than others: the more flexible it is, the easier it is to work with when installing the lines. The new hoses must go back on the same tubes, don't transpose them. Measure the overall length of the section that you need, including the adapters, before cutting the old crimps off;) Hydraulic hose, and those adapters, are good for 2000+psi, so they should be good for 60-80psi of oil pressure;) Some of the members here have used hose clamps with success, but personally, I wouldn't trust my engine to that method. A half inch hose can move a lot of oil very quickly at 50psi! If a hose blows off at 70mph, the oil pump will empty the oil pan before you know it! Using the short filter should work, but it's a tight fit with the front propeller shaft, plus you lose the benefit of the oil cooler.
|
i remember someone posting on here a while back by just putting the threated nipple in there and the oil filter wouldnt fit, ended up hitting something in the front suspension.
|
Capt fix works great! I did mine years ago much the same as that and never had an issue afterward. You don't cut the crimps off though, cut the tube right beside the crimps. We do replacement lines for the local GM dealer for a lot of the older Diesel truck oil coolers with the same issue. Just did a line for a Jaguar that had the same issue. Any good hydraulic repair shop should be able to make up replacement rubber lines if you bring in your originals. Here are the hose specs(G1) for the lowest pressure/temperature braided hyd hose we carry.
I should add that we use Gates C5D hose for cooler lines for the trans shops and dealerships. |
I'm one of those who used hose clamps when I made my new lines. I know it's not the best solution, and I should have gone with ones like the Captain said. However, I put two clamps at every end of the hoses, and it's been over a year, and not a single drip!
Who was it that likes to take the lines off altogether? Chris015? I can't remember. He claims it works well, but I like the idea of the oil cooler, and it's a lot easier to access the filter behind the skid plate, rather than up above the driveshaft. |
Yup, I think you're right, but isn't his a 1st gen?
|
I know it's expensive but you can always go with -AN fittings and lines. I think I priced it out when I first got my Blazer and it was something like $75 to replace just between the block and the filter mount though. I ended up using hydraulic hose and the double crimp style hose clamps.
|
Originally Posted by cleburne red
(Post 618739)
I'm one of those who used hose clamps when I made my new lines. I know it's not the best solution, and I should have gone with ones like the Captain said. However, I put two clamps at every end of the hoses, and it's been over a year, and not a single drip!
Who was it that likes to take the lines off altogether? Chris015? I can't remember. He claims it works well, but I like the idea of the oil cooler, and it's a lot easier to access the filter behind the skid plate, rather than up above the driveshaft. K, im gonna be the delete guy... 1st gens come with the nipple you need...gm part # 14081300. You can buy it new for 12 or so bucks at the dealership,or if your nice i can get it for ya at the yard,it comes removable on 1st gens. remove the lines,the adapter,chunk off the old gasket on the inside of the block,install nipple with torx wrench. screw on filter (pf47 filter,if you cant find it,cross ref that part #) its shorter and will work for 4wd) Ive done it 3 times. im hard on these trucks,never a problem. if you tow,KEEP the lines. if its just a whatever driver....do it..... |
Of course you're remembered, how could we forget? ;)
|
LOL <3 i try.
but OP,if you must delete...then follow what i said. Ive done it 2-3 times,never a issue. but if you do indeed tow etc,keep the lines. |
Deleted mine, will never look back.
|
Originally Posted by chris015
(Post 618759)
Woohoo...im remembered. LOL
Ive done it 3 times. im hard on these trucks,never a problem. if you tow,KEEP the lines. if its just a whatever driver....do it..... Yeah, for daily driving, the cooler isn't really necessary. Most vehicles probably don't even come with one. I like to imagine hard-core off roading, and zombie apocalypse rock climbing, so I wanted to keep mine! LOL |
chris015, do you know for sure if the filter will clear on a second gen? if I do decide to do a total delete I want to be sure it will work before I go ripping parts again. the filter that is used is the same that gm used on all their v6 cars I pretty sure. 3.1, 3.4, 3.8. I think im going to end up keeping the lines and just do the good fix to them because I do tow my four wheeler on occasion and my boat / camping gear once or twice a year. how much cooling dose the cooler actually do? I know it adds extra capacity and surface area for heat to dissipate . but the rad cooler really wont cool to much until the engine oil is above coolant temp right? im wondering if I would be ok with doing the delete and running a quality oil? I don't think this engine has much life left anyway ... will the stock cooler lines fit with a v8 swap? Vortec 350 not LS unfortunately .
|
Besides being 2 cylinders short of a 350 the 4.3 is the same as a v8 dimensionally. I almost put the waterpump off an 88 305 on mine the other day. I also have a few 3.8 sensors on mine as well. It's a frenkenstein.
|
I've deleted the lines on my 2nd gen Sonoma I'm building. I used the filter off of a 2.2 cavalier/sunfire and there's enough room.
|
Originally Posted by 2000jimmbo4x4
(Post 618861)
...how much cooling dose the cooler actually do? ....but the rad cooler really wont cool to much until the engine oil is above coolant temp right?...
This link covers the subject very well: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V6-instru...er-removal.pdf |
I removed my ext filter and cooler and have had no issues.
|
so if im understanding correctly the short filter will clear the prop shaft with plenty of room. any pictures of the clearance from those that have done it by chance? and the adapter number given early in this thread is the correct GM part #? I appreciate al the input here. still kind of torn on what im going to do . id really like to just ditch the lines. even though the cooling the actually do seems minimal. the must help a little. but how much?
|
I can get you a pic tomorrow
|
It'll clear.
Yo richard,get em a pic of yours...you do that camera stuff for a living. step up son! lol. But yea man,the shorter filter i think is like 1" shorter. just enough to get it on and off. |
1 Attachment(s)
Sorry I forgot to get a pic yesterday.
Here's the best I could get https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1392770505 |
I was all in until I red "unless you tow "
|
Originally Posted by rexazz2
(Post 622885)
I was all in until I red "unless you tow "
I might be wrong but,i seriously.....beat the living....out of mine lol runs good. |
Originally Posted by chris015
(Post 622894)
i honestly dont think it makes a difference. I beat the hell out of mine everyday and i bypassed mine. runs fine.
I might be wrong but,i seriously.....beat the living....out of mine lol runs good. guessing it will be a PIA changing them but I guess I will do them anyhow |
Meh. drive it in 3rd and not od,you'll be fine.
|
Originally Posted by chris015
(Post 623019)
Meh. drive it in 3rd and not od,you'll be fine.
|
you be gooooooood
|
I dont see why it would make a difference even if you tow.
People tow all the time that do not have oil cooler lines |
temperatures are likely to increase when towing, including coolant, transmission and oil
would be interested in some numbers from somebody that runs an oil temp gauge |
Trying to do this exact thing but the fitting I have has two different threads. The long side threads into both the oil filter and the engine block while the shorter side doesn't thread into anything?! Any advice??
Thnks in advance |
The link in post #19 has the GM part number.
|
Hey thanks capt for the response. Forgot to say that I have the fitting from the dealership... Part #14081300. The long side of the fitting I assume goes to the filter while the short side goes into the engine, yet mine does not.
|
well damn if it isn't one thing it is another!! so called dealership and they confirmed i was wrong, the longer side goes into the engine block and the shorter to the oil filter. that means everyone suggesting the pf47 is wrong because that thread is also M18.1.5 where as the short side of the adapter is 3/4-16. so theres no way that threads onto the pf47 or any compatible filter. that being said i went and found one that was roughly the same size as the pf47 but the correct thread. that part number is K&N (1002).
yet even with this smaller filter i had to unbolt the drivers side engine mount and lift up the engine to get the filter on. i also had to screw on the adapter to the oil filter first then screw both on to the engine block. so overall not as straight forward on a 2nd gen as i read or assumed. saying all this i will keep the lines deleted because i have a winch where the old relocated filter was and i know what to expect when i need to change the oil/filter next time. hope this helps someone and if anyone has any tips or tricks or figured out a better filter to use let us know!! |
[QUOTE=
yet even with this smaller filter i had to unbolt the drivers side engine mount and lift up the engine to get the filter on. i also had to screw on the adapter to the oil filter first then screw both on to the engine block. so overall not as straight forward on a 2nd gen as i read or assumed. [/QUOTE] Do you have to lift engine everytime you change the oil? |
Originally Posted by Princejimmy
(Post 643821)
well damn if it isn't one thing it is another!! so called dealership and they confirmed i was wrong, the longer side goes into the engine block and the shorter to the oil filter. that means everyone suggesting the pf47 is wrong because that thread is also M18.1.5 where as the short side of the adapter is 3/4-16. so theres no way that threads onto the pf47 or any compatible filter. that being said i went and found one that was roughly the same size as the pf47 but the correct thread. that part number is K&N (1002).
yet even with this smaller filter i had to unbolt the drivers side engine mount and lift up the engine to get the filter on. i also had to screw on the adapter to the oil filter first then screw both on to the engine block. so overall not as straight forward on a 2nd gen as i read or assumed. saying all this i will keep the lines deleted because i have a winch where the old relocated filter was and i know what to expect when i need to change the oil/filter next time. hope this helps someone and if anyone has any tips or tricks or figured out a better filter to use let us know!! It was very straight forward on my second gen. The hardest part was getting the old stuff out of the way and actually getting the fitting from the dealership was a close second lol. |
So a pf47 will work when doing oil changes without lifting engine every time?
|
I'm using a filter from a 2.2L Cavalier. I don't know what number that is for, but you shouldn't have to lift the motor.
I haven't done an oil change with my setup yet. It's going to be tight but should be fine with IFS still. I installed it when everything was apart so I had lots of room. |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:49 AM. |
© 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands