I have searched this forum and have read several articles which appear to have SOME help towards this area, but have yet to find the "definitive" step-by-step tutorial, complete with photos, part numbers, links, etc.

Surely someone has done this here? Again, several one or two post threads, then dead end. Some say this, some say that. Jack up the engine, don't have to jack it, ETC ETC.

Anyhow, it seems I am at the point now of trying to cleverly remove the adapter to filter lines. Everything is disconnected, but it seems that neither the adapter itself nor the lines can be removed without jacking up the engine a little. I am not able to slide the line out through the front, have not tried towards the rear just yet.

It appears that my adapter has TWO gaskets/o-rings. The large round one of course, and then an internal one made of paper. My question is: The replacement gasket set appears to show THREE gaskets, (plus all the small ones) is this the correct set to order? Where does the third gasket go? Is it for a different model or generation?

https://www.autozone.com/external-en...580455_0_12148

A link to the "one above all" oil cooler replacement tech thread would be appreciated. Again, I have searched it seems it does not exist?

Thanks.

 

Yes, the third gasket is for a different model. Get them from GM. They are cheap. I bought the Felpro set a few years ago and it was not useable due to very poor cutting of the gasket. Tooling for the paper gasket was very worn or not installed properly. Bought a second set from a completely different source - same thing. Only problem I ever had with Felpro.

 

Thanks Les! Based on the various opinions here, I'm going to go ahead and order the bypass part, but based on what I am looking at, SOMETHING will have to be moved to allow the existing adapter to be removed. I've squirrelled it every which way, no dice. I can clean it, install new gaskets on it, and even reinstall it . . . just can't get her out. No problem for me as I have already bought the new lines and see no harm in following through on the install. I did catch a nice post that seemed pretty complete, although it was for a Gen 1 model, I believe:

Well I'm glad I got that over with. If you have the cpi motor (vortech emblem on plenum), here's a brief walk through on how to change adapter block gasket and o-ring. I recommend changing the gasket and o-ring especially if you install new oil lines. I learned this hindsight when my truck started to leak after I installed the new oil lines. The increase in pressure being exerted on the adapter block gasket and (brittle) o-ring finally blew one or the other out and eventually caused a rather drastic leak. But all is well so far.... So heres the run down:
Parts & Tools needed:
-Oil line adapter block o-ring/gasket kit found at your local parts store (My local napa had a felpro kit in stock for $4.00). Kit includes 2 small o-rings, 4 medium o-rings, 1 large o-ring, and two different shaped gaskets. For the cpi motor you will need the large o-ring and one of the two gaskets included (you'll know which one you need when you pull the adapter off the motor).
-5 quarts of fresh oil and filter
-Brake parts cleaner
-15mm, 14mm, and 13mm sockets and wrenches w/ 3/8" drive socket
-3 foot extension or equivalent w/shorter wobble head extension. (May be able to use u-joint instead of wobbly)
-petroleum jelly or wheel bearing grease
-gaskest scrapper or razor
-Shop light or equivalent
-Flat head screw driver (long)
-Floor jack and stands
-Lug wrench
1. Loosen front driver side lug nuts, properly suspend vehicle using suitable jack and jack stands. Remove drivers side wheel.
2. Remove oil drain plug using 14mm wrench. Catch oil in drain pan.
3. Undo hose clamp and remove air cleaner box
4. Remove oil line clamp located just underneath power steering pump using a 13mm socket w/ ratchet.
5. Feed extension through the engine bay from beneath the radiator shroud until you lock on with the oil line bolt that secures the oil lines to the adapter block. In this step you'll need the long extension (3') coupled with the wobbly extension and a 13mm socket and of coarse your ratchet driver.
6.Place drain pan beneath oil line to adapter junction to catch oil still remaining in lines. Gently tug on oil lines to break seal on adapter block and pull lines back away from the adapter block *Now is a good time to remove the oil filter so the oil in the lines can completely be evacuated. This will depressurize the hyrdrolock and allow all the oil to escape.
7.Crawl under truck and locate the oil line adapter block, it is just above and behind the front diff carrier(if you have 4wd), it will have to 13 mm bolt heads that srew into a bowl shaped peice. Once located you'll notice a steel shield right below the adapter block with two 15 mm bolts fastening it to the diff carrier. You'll need to undo these two bolts so you'll have enough room to work on the adapter block. You cannot remove these bolts completely because there is not enough clearance between the oil pan and the carrier where they attach.
8. With the steal shield pushed aside, undo the the two 13mm bolts holding the oil adapter block to the engine block. Carefully lower it as far down as you can and flip it on its side so you can remove and replace the outer o-ring and the inner gasket. *As far as I can tell you can't remove this adapter without undoing the drivers side motor mount and jacking up on the oil pan to nudge the motor out of the way. I replaced the o-ring and gasket without doing this however.
9. Scrap old gasket material of mating surfaces with gaskets scraper or razor and remove larger outer o-ring (see how brittle it was).
10. With all the twisting and turning you'll be doing with the adapter, it gonna collect grime and dirt. I suggest spraying it down with some brake parts cleaners and allowing it to dry before attaching gasket/o-ring and re-installing assembly.
11. Apply a thin film of oil to the o-ring and dab with grease to keep it from falling out of its groove upon installation. Now dab a very small amount of grease or petrol jelly to the gasket so it will adhere to the mating surface and will not fall off upon assembling.
12. Attach gasket either to engine block mating surface or adapter block mating surface, what ever works for you. This may take sometime to get right so be patient. An extra set of hands or a long screw driver to hold adapter up while you shimmy it into place may be helpful. Again this is the most frustrating step, so what ever you can use to your adavantage I would suggest using. Have that shop light handy.
13. Once adapeter block is in place be sure the o-ring and gasket are properly seated and torque the two 13mm bolts anywhere from 15-25 foot lbs.
14. Re-fasten steal sheild and oil drain bolt if you haven't already.
15.Through the fender well, pull up the dust curtain and locate the oil lines. Press fittings back into adapter block. Thread bolt into adapter and torque to15-25 foot lbs.
16. Re-attach hose clamp under power steering pump and secure. Carefull not to over tighten or you can crimp or even puncture the oil lines.
17. Install oil filter if you haven't already and add 4.5 qts of oil
18. Install air cleaner box and all the necessary vaccuum lines.
19. Install wheel and lugs
20. Remove jack stands and lower vehicle. Tighten lugs nuts.
21. Start truck, check for leaks... Repeat steps 1-20 if leaks are found.
Additional steps are necessary if replacing oil lines.
THIS IS INTENDED ONLY FOR THE VIN W CPI MOTOR WITH VORTECH EMBLEM (4wd)1993-1995. I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DISCREPANCIES OR MIS-UNDERSTANDINGS THAT MAY OCCUR.
GOOD LUCK

 

OK. Progress made as of today:

"Turns" out you CAN rotate the drive shaft easily by hand, right at the oil/block connection. Doing so WILL allow you to Tetris the adaptor out and drop it down by the LEFT side of the driveshaft. You will want to drop this part because it will most likely be filthy and grimy, and since you must place two O-ring/gaskets on it, best that it be VERY clean when you reinstall it.

The area around the mounting point will most likely be extremely grimy as well, so having the adaptor dropped will help in making it easy to clean the area and remount, although it is POSSIBLE to replace the gaskets without dropping the adaptor.

As others have said, it seems very important to ensure that all the old gasket material is removed from BOTH sides of the adaptor and where it meets on the block. In my case, half the paper gasket came off with the adaptor, the other half is stuck up inside the block mount.

I was not able to remove the rear oil cooler lines without unbolting the motor mount through bolt and jacking up the engine just a tiny bit. That bolt is a bit of a beast to get at, I used a breaker bar and 18" deep socket on the nut side, then a 16mm socket with a 12" extension (1/2" drive is best). Even though I'm pretty sure I only moved the engine a TINY bit, that was enough to Tetris the old oil cooler lines out through the front end of the truck. Just pull and wiggle them towards you as you shine a light on the end that seems "stuck." Be patient and you will see that at a certain point, a light pull will have you screaming "FREEDOM!" like William Wallace as you are FINALLY holding the !@#$ damn lines in your hand.

Now is a good time to feed the new lines back into place, mostly. I left them back just beyond the "sticking" point on the motor, but far enough back to allow me to work in the area and pull them the rest of the way from the end that connects to the block.

Since I'm still waiting for my gasket set, I had plenty of time to clean the adaptor and polish the mating surfaces with 2500 grit.

To be continued:

Block to cooler lines adaptor.