oil leak
#1
oil leak
I have an oil leak from one of the high pressure hoses on my 95 blazer 4.3L V6 vortec engine. What is the name of the part that the oil filter screws into? Maybe I'm an idiot, but I can not for the life of me think of what this part is called. please help.
#4
If your vehicle is 4WD, this is the line that you need: Dorman Products - 625-103
OEM and aftermarket cooler lines will leak again.... period If you want to do the job one time and be done with it, they need to be modified to eliminate the crimp connections, in a word, they're JUNK.
There are several ways to modify your lines so they will not leak again. There are threads here on the forum showing different ways to do it. An inexpensive and reliable way to modify your existing line assembly is to first remove it from the vehicle. You'll need four 1/2" compression to 1/2" hydraulic hose adapters, and two sections of 1/2" hydraulic hose. It is available at any auto parts store that makes hydraulic lines. Mark all four tubes with a magic marker. They MUST be reassembled the same way, don't transpose the hoses, or you'll be buying a new engine! Behind each crimp connector on your cooler line assembly there is a "ring" formed in the aluminum tube. Measure the distance between the "rings" on both rubber lines and write it down. This is the total overall assembled length of two adapters and one section of hydraulic hose. Next step is use a hack saw to carefully remove all 4 crimp connections, and both rubber hoses. This image shows where and how to cut:
Take a ride to the hydraulic hose shop, give them the total overall length of each hose assembly that you need, and have them make the hoses, (the adapters are crimped on with a machine). They will look like the one in the image above when done. While at the parts store, pick up the gasket set for the connections at the block and oil filter mount. Install both ends of your old cooler line assembly, and torque the bolts to 26 foot pounds. Then install the new sections of hose. Make sure the new hoses go to the correct aluminum tubes, (that you marked earlier) and tighten up the compression fittings.
This modification will hold ~1500psi of oil pressure. Engine oil pressure should never exceed ~90psi, so it should be good
OEM and aftermarket cooler lines will leak again.... period If you want to do the job one time and be done with it, they need to be modified to eliminate the crimp connections, in a word, they're JUNK.
There are several ways to modify your lines so they will not leak again. There are threads here on the forum showing different ways to do it. An inexpensive and reliable way to modify your existing line assembly is to first remove it from the vehicle. You'll need four 1/2" compression to 1/2" hydraulic hose adapters, and two sections of 1/2" hydraulic hose. It is available at any auto parts store that makes hydraulic lines. Mark all four tubes with a magic marker. They MUST be reassembled the same way, don't transpose the hoses, or you'll be buying a new engine! Behind each crimp connector on your cooler line assembly there is a "ring" formed in the aluminum tube. Measure the distance between the "rings" on both rubber lines and write it down. This is the total overall assembled length of two adapters and one section of hydraulic hose. Next step is use a hack saw to carefully remove all 4 crimp connections, and both rubber hoses. This image shows where and how to cut:
Take a ride to the hydraulic hose shop, give them the total overall length of each hose assembly that you need, and have them make the hoses, (the adapters are crimped on with a machine). They will look like the one in the image above when done. While at the parts store, pick up the gasket set for the connections at the block and oil filter mount. Install both ends of your old cooler line assembly, and torque the bolts to 26 foot pounds. Then install the new sections of hose. Make sure the new hoses go to the correct aluminum tubes, (that you marked earlier) and tighten up the compression fittings.
This modification will hold ~1500psi of oil pressure. Engine oil pressure should never exceed ~90psi, so it should be good
Last edited by Captain Hook; 01-21-2014 at 03:36 PM.
#7
Yup. Gotta raise the engine a bit. Usually don't have to undo the motor mount. Just use a floor jack, only has to go up half an inch. Put a piece of 2x4 between the jack and the block, be careful on the aluminum cast oil pan.
#8
For anyone reading this that wants the short cut because they don't tow, work their engine too heavily or live in 100 degree plus daily weather... take the oil cooler lines out entirely and negate any further issue with these! I got the oil filter nipple from the dealership, dropped out the adapter, screwed in the nipple- got a slightly shorter filter and put that sucker right on the block. No more leak!
I dont know if the dorman lines came with your adapter gasket, but if you are replacing the lines you better go ahead and do that too. Slap a new PCV valve on for fun.
I dont know if the dorman lines came with your adapter gasket, but if you are replacing the lines you better go ahead and do that too. Slap a new PCV valve on for fun.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Kaser1026
1st Generation S-series (1983-1994) Tech
9
12-30-2012 05:58 PM
Bluebeastblazer57
General Chat
8
08-11-2012 11:05 PM
BubbaBrooks
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
2
05-18-2011 08:38 PM