Sounds like its going to be fun for a first timer! Lol

 

Yep. First was to replace gasket/o ring with help brand part. Replaced "line" gasket with little o rings from the same kit. Lasted for about ten miles before blowing out on of those little o rings.

Replaced little o rings with the right gasket, also help brand. This time those gaskets held, but the adapter block itself continued to leak a quart every 4-500 miles.

Got the dealer part and replaced the gasket/o ring. So far, so good!


The help (Dorman ?) part is also for some jeep application and comes with two different size o rings. They are almost identical. I might have put the wrong one in. I tried to make sure it was the same size as the one I took off, but maybe the original had dried out and shrunk, causing the original leak? When compared to the dealer o ring, it was noticeably thinner. I had already thrown away the other o ring that came in the kit, so I couldn't compare them.

 

one thing you may have done was overtighten the rubber seals and cut em up. alot of people think they have to tighten em down real tight,but they twist and cut the seals when they do it.

 

Might have been it. I tightened them pretty hard, then later read it's something like 20 lbs-ft.

 

yea,it aint much. sorta like a oil filter. you turn it till it starts to snug,then another half turn or so and your good.

 

I've got a 93 with a big time leak around the adapter bolted to the block. I cleaned everything and will try to purchase gasket tomorrow. If the job is as bad as the valve stem seal job a while back, well, here's my best Lurch impression....

 

Yes it's a tight spot with a 4x4. I measured and cut a "prop stick" before I started. After I had it jacked, supported, and safe. I made it so it would hold up the adaptor while I got a bolt in it. Really helped. I also ground the end of the bolts to a slight "bullet point". Hey, i'll try anything to help after the valve stem seal job...