Here are fittings and part numbers I used to attach the pressure tester to the filter to test the fuel pump . I connected the 3/8 end to the fuel filter.
I bought these fittings at home Depot, cost was $7 and change. All together looks like attach the 1/4 fitting from the gauge and you are set.

 

Nice job with the "creative plumbing"! As long as it does not leak, it's fine.

From your readings, the pump is fine. The leakdown problem is inside the plenum. If there are no external leaks, the regulator could be leaking past the valve plate. To diagnose this, the return fuel line, (going back to the tank) must be sealed off from the regulator immediately after pressurizing the system. CAUTION: If the regulator is exposed to ~75psi or more, the diaphragm in the regulator is likely to rupture, requiring replacement of the regulator.



Or, one or more poppet valves/nozzles could be leaking into a combustion chamber. Each nozzle will need to be carefully removed from the lower intake manifold, then activate the fuel pump and watch for leaks from the nozzles.

 

Thanks, hoping if others have fuel issues, or poor mileage they can try this out as well, relatively cheap, especially if they can borrow a gauge.
I will most likely have a gauge for sale too after I figure this out!
On a side note, I tested the poppets Saturday, took each one out and energized the pump, no issues with leaks there, except for the one that is under both fuel lines, that one I didn't pull out (tough to do with the fuel lines and didn't want to remove the spider)
So, now that it MUST be the regulator I thought today to
A. when I reopen the plenum to first test that poppet
B. to take off the fuel return line and plug the nut kit return to seal off the regulator (give the pump power and see if there is a drop in psi)because if the gauge then holds we know its the regulator leaking into the return line.
C. just replace the regulator after checking the one poppet and then retest while the plenum is opened.


Thanks for all the help guys, it sucks working on things you already fixed/replaced but its nice to get some satisfaction by figuring it out. Will be pretty bummed that I paid all that cash for the Spider assembly to only get one with a bad regulator....NEW PARTS DONT MEAN THEY ARE GOOD PARTS!


Ill repost what I do and what worked for me, and also what I did about replacing the full spider assembly or just the regulator...at this point I think I may go the junk yard, pull a spider assembly, return the junk yard one as defective to the parts store, for full price refund and just change the regulator on my spider for $30.

 

From post #22: "To diagnose this, the return fuel line, (going back to the tank) must be sealed off from the regulator immediately after pressurizing the system." If you activate the pump with the return line capped off, you will most likely destroy the regulator.

 

Ok, I was assuming if I crimped the line off it would mostly likely be the same, but I guess a crimp would have some give to it to slowly leak by.
But I think I have it worked out with the parts store , so im going to get a new regulator and put it in and test it right after with the plenum open. And if it still leaks down, I will be setting the Jimmy on fire haha

 

You can do it by crimping the return line, but as you say, it may leak past the crimp. If the pressure leaks down, you'll never know if it's the crimp, or something else. There's a special tool with a valve, and it connects inline, in the return line. The pump is activated to pressurize the system with the valve open. The instant the pump shuts off, the valve is closed. You can make the tool with some more of that creative plumbing that you did so well at Just need to make sure the return line is unrestricted whenever the pump is activated, or it will trash the regulator.

 

ok, Got it. ill see what I can plumb up as soon as I get some time! Thanks for all the help....
Once I get it figured out, ill do a DIY post on how I did my trouble shooting and what I used.

 

There's already a post somewhere here, but if you post the parts in this thread, like the other ones you used, that would be cool. The results will tell if the regulator is leaking internally. Doesn't happen very often, but good to know how to check it.

 

Update.
Since 1-21-13 I have NOT seen the P1133 code with the "old" O2 back in, I believe the heater in the "new" Denso was faulty perhaps?
So I kept the old O2 in there for now, and returned the Denso for a new one, which I will install at a later date.
I also ordered the replacement Fuel Pressure Regulator today, will pick up tomorrow and hopefully install Friday or Saturday since its supposed to be 50 degrees!
After I install the new FPR I will again test the pressure at the test port (I know the pump is fine) and hope for no drops in pressure, I am confident this "new FPR will be fine. Fingers crossed. If so ....
Then I think ill change the oil and replace the O2 to the new Denso.... The oil does smell a bit gassy, But I believe there is also some Seafoam in there too so that can be what I am smelling.
I will fill the tank and check my mileage.
I may pull the EGR to deep clean it as well, I had it out when I did the spider and cleaned it, but I didn't push in on it and spray any cleaners in there so it may be a bit dirty.
May check the plugs as well, just to see how they are since I changed them.


I will post up results again this weekend.

 

If the EGR valve is electronic, (no vacuum line) don't push on the pintle valve, it will damage the valve. If it's vacuum operated, apply vacuum to the port to open it.