Ok
thank you!

 

Hope it works!

 

Lightly coat the O rings with clean motor oil. The regulator will go on much easier without damaging them.

 

I changed the FPR tonight and here's the results of the new one.






So I suspected an issue because it didn't stay above 50 psi for 10 minutes.
So, I tired it again. this time it did take longer to drop, but still went under 50 in less than 10 minutes.
I was thinking...how can I possibly get ANOTHER bad part?????
So I decided to keep it in and bolt everything up and then decide what to do next based off ideas here.
So here is what happens upon start up after assembly.
The idle was wacky, almost to the point of stalling. It was running rough and would not smooth out. So now I know its a bad FPR AGAIN!
So of course I couldn't drive it that way, so I put back the other FPR, which I know is leaking down instantly, but the truck runs and idles smooth.


So here's the question....I researched two different FPR on Advance site and it lists the BWD which I got and then the Dorman.
The Dorman comes with a hex tool to "adjust fuel Pressure" this BWD I have didn't come with one, but why would I have to adjust the fuel pressure anyhow? Does the BWD I have need adjustment or is it just bad?
Here is the Dorman link, with tool and you can see its for adjustment in the description part http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...985%7CL3*15355
here is the BWD I have http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/b...985%7CL3*15355


are these reman parts? it doesn't say.


Thanks

 

There is a problem in the plenum. Leakdown is excessive. Need to know what the pressure is with the pump running, and the engine off. But the fact remains, there is a leak somewhere in the plenum, could be the regulator even though it's new, could be the fuel lines, or it could be a leaky injector, or poppet nozzle.

 

After I installed the new FPR I checked each poppet, I pulled each out and checked to see if one was leaking, no leak. I checked each tube coming from the spider, no leak. I checked the fuel lines coming into the plenum, no leaks and also where they mount to the spider and no leaks.
Did you read about the start up? I went back and edited, so maybe you didn't catch that part

 

The BWD is adjustable as well, it just doesn't come with the tool. Pump running, engine off, pressure needs to be 55psi to 61psi, BUT, that's when there are no leaks, and yours has a leak. Gotta find and fix the leak before worrying about tweeking the pressure.

To check the regulator for internal leaks, you'll need to do some more creative plumbing. This time it needs to be in the return line. It needs to be connected inline, with a shut off valve. When the valve is open, fuel must be able to return to the tank.

 

Ok I will see what I can do with the return line tomorrow or Saturday. I am sure I can make something work by the fuel filter, although I don't recall if there is somewhere to do something like that.
But isn't it possible, based after the way it was idling that this new FPR is faulty? The old one leaks down instantly, but the truck does idle fine and smooth, this one I installed today...the engine runs rough!
So should I try a new FPR? Should I return this one for another new one to try to see if it leaks down again?
or can I adjust it? how do you know what to adjust it to so it idles normal?


Just trying to see whats best as of now....I understand I need to find the leak, but if its the FPR (new one that's bad) I don't have to figure a way to shut the return line down.


Believe me, I want to figure it out, but just want to do it the easy way and seems if I get another FPR and there is no leak then I know this one is bad.


Beyond frustrated with this already!
Thanks for the help.

 

Key on, engine off, fuel pump running, (regulated fuel pressure) needs to be 55psi to 61psi, when there are no leaks.

You can replace regulators until you're blue in the face, and if that's not the problem, you can try something else until you're blue in the face. OR, you can diagnose it and figure out exactly what's leaking, and fix the problem... your choice The inline tool must be installed in the fuel return line, not the pressure line. When it comes time to check it, open the valve and activate the pump to pressurize the system. The instant the pump shuts off, quickly close the valve. If leakdown remains above 50psi after 10 minutes, the regulator is leaking internally. If it drops below 50psi after 10 minutes, the spider assembly or the "nut kit", (fuel lines in the plenum) is leaking.

 

Update.
Friday after work I again took out the spider assembly.
This time I got a new spider from Advance.
Today I installed the spider, gave the pump power, gauge hits 60, down to 50 and slowly keeps going down....
check for leaks, and hear a sound I cant explain, well four of the six poppets are leaking! Enough that you see bubbles off the ends.
How awesome is that!?
Call A&A, and in 3 hours I got a Standard brand spider.
Install it, pump is powered up, gauge shows 60, pump off, and it stays for 20+ minutes, no leaks, no issues.


Had time to change the oil and rotate the tires and it held good pressure that long as well.

Put it all back together, start it up, and its running rough, SES light comes on....
Scan the code and it was a TPS issue, I don't recall the code entirely, so I took all connections off again, and reconnected, cleared the code and it fired right up as it should, no codes, smooth idle.
But I did notice the pump running AFTER I turned the truck off for a few seconds.
Took it around the block, filled it up with gas, runs great. Get home and opened the door, turned it off and the pump was not running, so maybe it was just due to taking it apart and having the battery disconnected I guess.


Anyhow, its fixed correctly, time to watch the mileage and see how it goes with a full tank.
I appreciate all the help guys!!!