Ok, I did a search here and found a dozen or so posts, but none seemed to answer my question.
I need to replace the famous leeking remote oil filter lines.

Can someone explain the procedure for removing the part that is mounted to the engine block.
I can get the 2 bolts out that hold the round cover in place that mounts to the enging but it is too large to slide inbetween the frame and the engine in either direction.
I was thinking the motor needs to be lifted?. I also see that I might be able to do it if I could actually just get to the single bolt that holds the hose assy to the round cover but even with 5 universal jointsI don't think I could get to it.

Could someone please explain the procedure they have used in the past?

Thanks.

Jay
1989 S10 Blazer, 4.3, 4x4
100% off-road

 

If your motor mounts have sagged, you may need to jack up the motor a bit to get to the bolt. I have been able to do it on a lot of different s-series vehicles with a regular 12" extension and a 12" swivel extension. Some needed a bit of jacking of the engine to allow the hose assembly out, but none required the motor mount to be disconnected.

 

I still don't understand how I would get to that bolt, the front driveshaft/u-joint blocks it from the bottom fo a wrench it out of the question and the bolt is to high to reach with a socket.

Are you saying I need to actually get to it using a socket and extension fed from the front of the vehicle? That would be a long extension! Thanks.

 

Yes, you will use extensions feeding from behind/under the radiator, but infront/over the front differential. Follow along the lines. I have a magnetic mount mirror that I use to gain line of sight and then I put the extensions back into place.

 

Thanks for the help, I managed to get it off after an hour (and I did have to jack the engine a bit) and got the replacement part in.

However, I didn't notice it until the end but the original set of hoses, has a recessed area that holds the orings in on each end of the hose. The new part I got from the dealer did not (but still had o rings). It seemed to fit ok although the flat mounting surfaces of the hose and filter housings did not fit completely FLUSH like the old one because of the added thickness of the orings.

I have not started the motor yet to test for leaks because I started wondering if they gave me the wrong part or that was the new design?

Thanks.

 

Anyone have an answer? I am heading back out to the woods this weekend (where the truck is kept) and need to know if I need to return the part.

Thanks,
Jay

 

Sounds like the same design as the Dorman units I put on my old Bravada. There were no recesses for the o-ring to sit into, just an aluminum framed o-ring assembly that went onto the line.

I would recommend that you keep your old lines and see what you can do to remove the outer crimp. Get some new hose to go between the hard lines and put those in if/when the new replacements go bad.

 

I'm replacing my leaking oil lines and was wondering ifanyone know what the torque spec is for the part that mounts to the engine block?

 

Tighten to 26ftlbs.