So, I searched posts and found that people are using an optional B & M 14,400 BTU trans cooler. My question is, would a B & M 9,800 BTU unit be ok for a DD that won't be used for towing? Since this is a cold climate area, I am opting to keep the radiator cooler as well. The 9,800 BTU unit has a cold fluid bypass as well. I appreciate your opinions in advance folks.

 

Absolutely, I have a B&M as well & I tow... remember it's used in conjunction with the stock radiator trans cooler so you should be fine & have more assurance the trans in protected. 90% of trans issues are from it over heating, the B&M will offer more assurance that doesn't happen.

Glad to see you've done some research beforehand:

 

I usually search beforehand so I dont look like too much of an idiot.. lol What size is your B & M Rotti?

I had a 91 F150 I was hauling a 14k 5th wheel with, and I overheated the trans coming up the pass into Montana. Needless to say, the trans didn't shift the same again. That truck would not pull that trailer past Butte, but the truck did drive in to South Dakota on its own power. So, I do understand the need for keeping trans fluid cool!

 

I have the 3/4" thick one, that's the 9,800 BTU one B&M 70255 B&M SuperCooler Transmission Coolers - 16,000 GVW. If I would have measured in-front of the rad beforehand I could have gotten the 14,400 BTU one for $15 more B&M 70264 B&M SuperCooler Transmission Coolers - 24,000 GVW. 24,000LB GVW that's a lot!
I also had the trans rebuilt & upgraded just over a year ago so I wanted to protect that $1800 investment.
But like I said working in conjunction with the stock rad one it should offer a lot of assurance in the heat dissipation department.

CAUTION which ever one you get make sure you DO NOT use the crappy standard hose clamps they provide. That's my only gripe with it because a clamp let go once & proceded to dump 5 quarts of trans fluid out! I went to a auto parts place I knew of 3 blocks away, got fluid & fuel injection line clamps. They have a bolt & a nut that make the clamping power, not a screw that can let go & haven't failed me yet. (knock on wood)


That fluid is after I limped it a block & off road so I could repair it.

More at http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/...coolerpuke.jpg

 

Looks like your truck had a monthly visitor.. lmao! All joking aside, if your using the same model B & M I am looking at, then I am more than good to go!

 

LMAO @ Aunt Flow & yeah, you shouldn't have any issues. They're great coolers, Kyle (swartlkk) our admin. likes them too & not being bias but that says something IMO. Just don't use the supplied hose clamps, get the fuel injection line clamps, way superior!

wait a sec... CB is my buddy, he doesn't have those issues... although the blazer was named "jointly" (she said this & I changed it to something I could handle) by my gf. I showed her a pic & she said OH LOOK a Cranberry blazer! Omfg could you have picked a gayer name? She did - A Cute Cranberry Blazer... ugh ok CB it is!

 

Hahahahahahahahaha @ Cute Cranberry Blazer! I named my g/f's Escort War Pony.. lol My old Protege I had was named lightning.. I haven't come up with one yet for the Jimmy.

I ordered a new B&M 70255 damaged box for $40 bucks tonight. I am going to go with flared fittings instead of barbs I think. I assume flow starts at the top line and come out the bottom, so I am going to run 2 threaded 90 degree elbows off of the rad to make a 180 to the front, then I might go metal line with the rubber around it to and from the cooler back to a flared thread to the return line. I was also thinking about adding a trans temp gauge to somewhere inside, but I haven't decided yet. I don't really like Automatics, and I am debating on locating a 5spd setup possibly this summer if I can ever locate a just over broke (aka JOB).

 

I think you'd want the flow to go in the bottom & out the top so you don't trap air inside the cooler. The route would be rad trans out line to the B&M & from there the existing return line from the rad to the trans will hook up to the B&M & return to the trans.

 

I got the 14400BTU Cooler. I can touch it and not get burned after driving it. I had it installed at 88k miles and I got 116k on it now. Check my album. I think I got a photo of it installed. I had it professionally done. Only problem was that they had to mount it the way they did because of the thickness interfering with the center hood latch support. The other issue is that when it is cold it shifts funny. During normal driving it only gets to 100-130F. I held an IR thermometer to the cooler after flooring it to 60 and it was in the low 100s.

https://blazerforum.com/forum/member...oler-21607.jpg

 

After looking at pics I have mine mounted that way also but I have it at the bottom left of the rad, no clearance issues.