Full Size K5 (1969-1991) GMT415 (1992-1994) Tech Discuss any and all full size K5 general tech topics here.

packing wheel bearings

Old 05-14-2010, 11:11 PM
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 167
ericthughes is on a distinguished road
Default packing wheel bearings

hey i got a 78 k5 and ive been told i should pack my wheel bearings..i just got it a few months ago and wanna take it out muddin and dont know when the last time it was done can anyone explain it to me or set me up with a link somewhere that te;;s me how too i wanna do it tomarrow so any advice would be great
Old 05-15-2010, 06:38 AM
swartlkk's Avatar
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Waterloo, NY
Posts: 40,803
swartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond repute

You should only have to pack the front wheel bearings when you first put them in. After that, no real maintenance is required. If you are replacing them, then yes, you need to pack them.

If you want to do it again, you will have to remove the front wheels, the brake caliper, the lockout hub, and then the spindle nut (requires special 4 pronged socket). Once that is off, you should be able to pull the wheel hub / brake rotor assembly off of the spindle. The inner & outer wheel bearings will be inside the hub. You will have to pop off the dust seal on the back of the hub to remove the inner bearing.
Old 06-11-2010, 07:22 AM
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 7
grime is on a distinguished road

I don't know if you're still tryin' to get this done, but I just got done taking my hub and crap off myself. When you get your locking hub parts out, theres that 4-pronged bolt that Swartlkk was talkin' about, then theres an annoying lock ring with a bunch of holes in it, that has to come out. If your fingers are too big, you can stick a magnet in there and pull it out, then theres another nut with 4 prongs on it, but this one has a small stud at the top of it for one of the holes on that lock ring to grab on to. After you get this off, you should be able to see your outter bearing and get it out, or if you want you can go ahead and pull the whole brake rotor and hub off and it'll slide with it. On the other side of your hub, on the inside of your brake rotor, there's a dust seal thats put in there pretty hard, you're gonna have to get something to yank it out, and you'll have to get a new one, cause you will tear the old one up. Now you should be able to get your inner bearing out. I took this time to use some diesel and a tooth brush and brush all the nasty crappy gunked up old grease that was on my bearing races (the things that the bearings sit in) and make them nice and smooth again.

I'd opt to clean the entire thing out and add new grease to the whole thing at this point. Once you have your bearings out, grease them up nice and good, make sure you get grease all over the insides of the bearings, all over the sides, but it doesn't have to be a very thick film, just enough that it's all covered. Then you'll wanna add grease (5 pumps or so if you're usin' a gun) to the inside of the hub between where your bearings sit.

Now slide your inner bearing in, and you should be able to tell which way it goes because the sides are at a 30 degree angle, take your new dust seal, place it as best you can on your hub, and take a small hammer and lightly tap around it in a circle 'til it's in. Slide your hub with the brake roter on, the inner bearing in, and the dust seal back over your axle cover, then slide your outter bearing in afterword and get it up in where it belongs. Take that 4 pronged bolt with the stud at the top (make sure that's facing out towards you) and tighten that down. I've never known a real torque value for it, but what everyone tells me is about a quarter turn under hand tight. After that's tight, put your lock ring back on, get the stud in one of the holes, and put your other 4 pronged nut back in and torque it down as hard as you can by hand. Now put your locking hub stuff back in, and you're good to go.

If I messed up on any of this, please feel free to let me know.

Last edited by grime; 06-11-2010 at 07:24 AM.
Old 07-12-2010, 10:05 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wading River, NY (Long Island)
Posts: 376
Tony H is an unknown quantity at this point

I repack my Wheel Bearings every 100K miles. on my '85 full sized Pickup
Change the Rear Diff fluid at the same time. It makes me feel better not to mention a visual inspection helps anticipate a problem.. No rear or Bearing issues in 300K miles.
Related Topics
Thread Starter
Last Post
Headers, Intake, & Exhaust
01-19-2014 04:15 PM
Steering, Suspension & Drivetrain
08-30-2011 10:59 PM
Tires and Wheels
03-05-2011 05:50 PM
2nd Gen S-series (1995-2005) Tech
09-17-2005 11:45 PM
Steering, Suspension & Drivetrain
07-25-2005 11:53 AM

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: packing wheel bearings

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.