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Rear Window help for noob!

  #1  
Old 03-12-2011, 05:32 PM
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I know... ANOTHER rear window thing... (3 Questions)

Im waiting on my factory service manual, and LMC's site is well the drawings arent helping... so

My rear window is not going down... not sure about up but not down... took apart the panel in the back and saw this:

http://www.djducky.com/k5/images/WP_000097.jpg

That large blue cable, what is is? and im no expert but it looks broken... and not where it should go... what do i need to do to fix this?

2nd question:

http://www.djducky.com/k5/images/WP_000098.jpg

What is that lever with the black rubber tip, its silly its behind the panel, whats it do, id rather not loose my fingers so ill ask instead of just try it.

3rd Question

If I find a manual tailgate, for the same year model as mine, can I use the manual instead of the electric? I see alot of threads about going from manual to electrical, but none for the reverse...

Ducky

Also, that broken blue cable I'm assuming goes into that threaded part of the black box above it?
 

Last edited by rriddle3; 03-13-2011 at 06:02 PM. Reason: COMBINING CONSECUTIVE POSTS
  #2  
Old 03-12-2011, 06:01 PM
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yes that black box is the window motor and that cable is supposed to go where the treads are on the bottom, that cable is the regulator cable, it sends the power from the motor to the regulator which brings the window up and down.

i dont see why you cant go to manual just change the tail gate much simpler than going to electric
 
  #3  
Old 03-12-2011, 10:41 PM
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Is there a way to check everything before i replace just the cable, should the motor move w/o the cable in? Havent tried yet... anyway to try the regulator, i want to make sure that whatever happened to the end of the old cable does not happen again to the new one... looks shredded...



And bump for anything on that 2nd pic.
 
  #4  
Old 03-13-2011, 05:21 PM
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you can try hooking drill to end of cable -- make sure it is pushed into window trans. then run drill in rev. (i believe). it should run window down. as for motor use switch in trk or key in tailgate to see if runs. as for second pic. that is a safty so you can not open gate unless window is down. hope this helps
 
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Old 03-13-2011, 06:20 PM
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Thanks on both replies...
Im impatient so I decided to try a few things before i read your reply...
1) I twisted the cable by hand (Fingertips actually) and the window went up and down (I stopped 1/4 way cuz its alot of turning) and it seems to freely move.
2) I hooked up a Multimeter to the wires Ground to ground cable and tried the switch, and both read 11 some volts when I click the window switch depending on which way I clicked the 11 some volts was either on one or the other hot cable. Though I noticed on the other one unless Im misreading, while one side reads 11 some volts, the other side reads some V's too.. not sure if that means something wrong or it just does that.
3) I tried hooking the motor very crudely up the the car battery directly to see if it made any noise, and it didn't so I'm either doing it wrong, or that problem in #2 is actually a problem and it blew my motor, or the motor is just bad.
So I know i need the cable, and a motor at least so far... any thoughts on the getting voltage on the 2nd hot cable? its not 11some volts like the other side, but its still something.
 
  #6  
Old 03-13-2011, 09:03 PM
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I made a new image to try to un-confuse people...

http://www.djducky.com/k5/images/condition.jpg

note- it seems that the 8.5v condition seems to be getting lower slowly the voltage drops .1v every second or so...

The question is, am I going to fry a motor if i put one in? should the 8.5v be 0v actually?

Or is the 8.5v and falling actually something thats there to slow the motor down or something?

Anyone?
 
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:13 PM
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Bump-ity Bump.
 
  #8  
Old 03-14-2011, 08:18 PM
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New Findings...

Well I pulled the dash switch off, and shorted each side on the harness, same thing, 12v one side 8.something on the other.

Put the switch back on and hooked up the new motor I got at O'Reilly Auto Parts Replacement Motor...

Cardone - Window Lift Motor
Part # 42-20
Line: A1

Put it in, put dialectric grease all over the outside of the connector for good measure and hooked it up.

From the dash the motor moves... waiting for the LMC Window Regulator Cable to come in and I should be able to test the window.

The back lock switch however... not work either direction... Im assuming like the dash switch I dont need to have the key in the ignition, because that would be silly... so im assuming that switch is bad, and it looks like a PITA to get to to replace too... not to mention a new key prolley? Dunno if i will fix that, might just fix the interior switch, and get a soft top... ill keep you all informed...
 
  #9  
Old 03-18-2011, 05:47 PM
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the electrical to the motor is right. the motor grounds itself to where it bolts to the tailgate. when you push the button one way (say up for example) it sends power to spin the motor one way, then when you push the button to go down itll spin it the other way lowering the window.

also that lever i dont know if it was answered but it looks like the safety handle, prevents you from opening the tailgate with the window up
 
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Old 03-18-2011, 09:05 PM
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The lever is part of the tailgate latch release mechanism. When the window goes down, it hits on the bar that the spring is attached to which then hits on the lever which engages the latch on the inside of the tailgate. Without the window all the way down, the interior latch should not be able to open the tailgate.
 
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