Replacing Cargo Area Floor
#1
11-15-2011, 08:49 AM
Replacing Cargo Area Floor
Hey guys, so my rear cargo area floor just came in, I've already sprayed it with rubberized paint so it shouldn't rust again.
Just wondering how should I go about replacing it,
I'm assuming I have to take the carpet out(needs a wash anyways) and then unbolt it, which I think is under the truck by the gas tank?
Now there are two pieces for the back, are they welded together.
Just wanna get an idea of what I have to do before I start ripping the truck apart later today.
Thanks for any advice!!
Just wondering how should I go about replacing it,
I'm assuming I have to take the carpet out(needs a wash anyways) and then unbolt it, which I think is under the truck by the gas tank?
Now there are two pieces for the back, are they welded together.
Just wanna get an idea of what I have to do before I start ripping the truck apart later today.
Thanks for any advice!!
#2
11-15-2011, 10:39 AM
I just finished doing this. We started by ripping the carpet out, which was never in my plan to keep anyway. I wanted to put down some kind of rubber that can be sprayed out if need be.
My flooring was rusted about a foot really bad from the tailgate in. It was rusted out on the sides pretty bad too so I don't know how bad yours is but mine came apart pretty easy. The previous owner never got the tailgate window fixed and had just a piece of plexi-glass in it, which caused the flooring to rust unusually bad. The first thing we had to do was use a saw-zaw to cut out all the old flooring. Then I had to use a grinder and an air hose chisel to get the areas around the wheel wells. This was a tedious process to get around the wheel wells and was kind of a pain in the *** but needs to be done. I used the chisel and went right through all the old bolts as well because they were too rusted to get out.
Most likely, the support braces that went across the flooring will come out with it as well. I went to Lowes and bought 2 wire fence rails. They're green in color and they look pretty much exactly like the original braces. I cut 2 pieces to fit in between the wheel wells and one piece to go behind the wheel wells towards the tailgate about middle ways back between the tailgate and wheel well. I rivoted the two that go across the wheel wells to the front half of flooring and sprayed undercoating all over them. The brace that goes toward the back I had to rivot to the truck due to their being 2 separate pieces of flooring for the back half. I welded a piece of metal to the end of each brace so I had something to screw a bolt into once I got the floor in there.
As far as the two back pieces, I did not have to weld them together. I basically used some heavy duty steel rivots and seam sealer to tie the 2 sides together. If you don't have any seam sealer, go ahead and buy a tube or two at Napa or somewhere because you're going to need it. Be careful when putting in the two back pieces because there is a certain way they fit together that fits better. I can't remember if its the left over the right or vice versa, but they go under the front half much "neater" a certain way. You may have to fool around with each way, but you will notice right away which one looks and fits better.
I think we put a couple screws into the floor from under the wheel well on each side and basically put back new bolts wherever they were before. I also did some rivoting on the very back closest to the tailgate. I put about 6 steel rivots along the back edge to tie the back flooring to the back of the truck. Once everything was done, I took the seam sealer and sealed all the edges all the way around the truck.
Sorry this post seems like rambling but I'm trying to get it all out there. I've probably left some stuff out. If I think of anything else, I'll post it.
Nick
I would add that I'm not sure how you're going to get your carpet out and put it back in. With the insualtion they use, I don't feel you'll be able to just put it back in there. But I could be wrong.
Hope this helps some
My flooring was rusted about a foot really bad from the tailgate in. It was rusted out on the sides pretty bad too so I don't know how bad yours is but mine came apart pretty easy. The previous owner never got the tailgate window fixed and had just a piece of plexi-glass in it, which caused the flooring to rust unusually bad. The first thing we had to do was use a saw-zaw to cut out all the old flooring. Then I had to use a grinder and an air hose chisel to get the areas around the wheel wells. This was a tedious process to get around the wheel wells and was kind of a pain in the *** but needs to be done. I used the chisel and went right through all the old bolts as well because they were too rusted to get out.
Most likely, the support braces that went across the flooring will come out with it as well. I went to Lowes and bought 2 wire fence rails. They're green in color and they look pretty much exactly like the original braces. I cut 2 pieces to fit in between the wheel wells and one piece to go behind the wheel wells towards the tailgate about middle ways back between the tailgate and wheel well. I rivoted the two that go across the wheel wells to the front half of flooring and sprayed undercoating all over them. The brace that goes toward the back I had to rivot to the truck due to their being 2 separate pieces of flooring for the back half. I welded a piece of metal to the end of each brace so I had something to screw a bolt into once I got the floor in there.
As far as the two back pieces, I did not have to weld them together. I basically used some heavy duty steel rivots and seam sealer to tie the 2 sides together. If you don't have any seam sealer, go ahead and buy a tube or two at Napa or somewhere because you're going to need it. Be careful when putting in the two back pieces because there is a certain way they fit together that fits better. I can't remember if its the left over the right or vice versa, but they go under the front half much "neater" a certain way. You may have to fool around with each way, but you will notice right away which one looks and fits better.
I think we put a couple screws into the floor from under the wheel well on each side and basically put back new bolts wherever they were before. I also did some rivoting on the very back closest to the tailgate. I put about 6 steel rivots along the back edge to tie the back flooring to the back of the truck. Once everything was done, I took the seam sealer and sealed all the edges all the way around the truck.
Sorry this post seems like rambling but I'm trying to get it all out there. I've probably left some stuff out. If I think of anything else, I'll post it.
Nick
I would add that I'm not sure how you're going to get your carpet out and put it back in. With the insualtion they use, I don't feel you'll be able to just put it back in there. But I could be wrong.
Hope this helps some
Last edited by swartlkk; 11-15-2011 at 10:41 AM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the edit function to add additional information in your post if another member has yet to respond.
#3
11-17-2011, 12:42 PM
this is almost exactly what i need to do in my k5. except im going to be transplanting a 74 bed to a 83. dont ask me how but the 74 is in better condition. lol. now i know at least a guideline to getting it apart.
#4
11-17-2011, 12:51 PM
I am not a fan of the screw-n-glue, but if that's the best you can do with the tools & experience at your disposal, it will work. Butt welding the seams is the best way to make a lasting repair, but not everyone has a welder handy or the know-how to do a good butt weld.
The best approach I have found for a good butt weld seam is to overlap the panels & screw them together close to one edge. The overlap should be >3/8" and use the smallest self tapping screws you can buy (makes for a smaller hole to fill with weld later). Then, with a very thin cutoff wheel (the thinnest you can buy, cut to one side of the screws such that you are cutting through both layers. Tack it in a few spots around the perimeter as you cut, but make sure to align the joint by pressing down on the repair panel that is on top where they overlap at each tack. Once the full perimeter is cut & tacked, just work your way around making small tack welds every 2" or so until the panels are fully welded together. Fill in the screw holes & dress the weld with a grinder to smooth it down & hide it.
The best approach I have found for a good butt weld seam is to overlap the panels & screw them together close to one edge. The overlap should be >3/8" and use the smallest self tapping screws you can buy (makes for a smaller hole to fill with weld later). Then, with a very thin cutoff wheel (the thinnest you can buy, cut to one side of the screws such that you are cutting through both layers. Tack it in a few spots around the perimeter as you cut, but make sure to align the joint by pressing down on the repair panel that is on top where they overlap at each tack. Once the full perimeter is cut & tacked, just work your way around making small tack welds every 2" or so until the panels are fully welded together. Fill in the screw holes & dress the weld with a grinder to smooth it down & hide it.
#5
11-23-2011, 09:15 AM
I am not a fan of the screw-n-glue, but if that's the best you can do with the tools & experience at your disposal, it will work. Butt welding the seams is the best way to make a lasting repair, but not everyone has a welder handy or the know-how to do a good butt weld.
The best approach I have found for a good butt weld seam is to overlap the panels & screw them together close to one edge. The overlap should be >3/8" and use the smallest self tapping screws you can buy (makes for a smaller hole to fill with weld later). Then, with a very thin cutoff wheel (the thinnest you can buy, cut to one side of the screws such that you are cutting through both layers. Tack it in a few spots around the perimeter as you cut, but make sure to align the joint by pressing down on the repair panel that is on top where they overlap at each tack. Once the full perimeter is cut & tacked, just work your way around making small tack welds every 2" or so until the panels are fully welded together. Fill in the screw holes & dress the weld with a grinder to smooth it down & hide it.
The best approach I have found for a good butt weld seam is to overlap the panels & screw them together close to one edge. The overlap should be >3/8" and use the smallest self tapping screws you can buy (makes for a smaller hole to fill with weld later). Then, with a very thin cutoff wheel (the thinnest you can buy, cut to one side of the screws such that you are cutting through both layers. Tack it in a few spots around the perimeter as you cut, but make sure to align the joint by pressing down on the repair panel that is on top where they overlap at each tack. Once the full perimeter is cut & tacked, just work your way around making small tack welds every 2" or so until the panels are fully welded together. Fill in the screw holes & dress the weld with a grinder to smooth it down & hide it.
Yea we have a welder, but we have discovered that we're not very good at using it. The easiest alternative for us was rivots, bolts, and screws. I must say that I feel like we got it in there pretty good. It's very solid with the 3 braces that we used. Granted, it may not be the best over time as you said.
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