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Considering a Blazer and need some words of wisdom.

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Old 03-04-2011, 11:59 AM
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Question Considering a Blazer and need some words of wisdom.

I'm in the market for new used car and came across a 1999 2 door Blazer that I cant stop thinking about.

It has 151,000 miles, manual transmission, manual windows, paint and body have signs of wear normal for its mileage, interior is pretty clean with only a few cracks on the dash. I spotted some rust on top of the car next to the roof rack beneath the blue paint, an oval spot about 3-4 inches wide. Transmission clicks when its going into gear and you can hear it outisde of the car. The shifter vibrates but Im not sure if the vibration is normal.
They're asking 3700 out the door but I'm pretty sure I can get them to 2700. Its on a car lot and its been there for a while, the car lot got the vehicle from an auto auction. Car comes with no warranty or cooling off period, so I'm having my mechanic look at it today.

Knowing Blazers does this sound like a car you would take on? What things should I know about Blazers before getting into one? Ill be using it for commuting and light off-roading. Any help would be appreciated, Im going back to the lot in a couple hours.
 
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Old 03-04-2011, 12:02 PM
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My 5spd also clicked going from Neutral to 1st and did it from when I got it until I got rid of it... I put 30,000 km's on it with no issues
 
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Old 03-05-2011, 06:53 AM
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first of all, it's a truck, not a car.

second, the click is normal, for a few reasons. it's a manual trany, so it's always spinning the input shaft. when you go to put it in 1st gear, try waiting a second or two after you press in the clutch. doesn't do it any more, does it? that's because the trany has had time to stop spinning. the "clink" is the 1st gear & the main cluster gear hitting each other as they engage.

or do what i have always done. pull it into 4th (or even 2nd), then into 1st. 4th stops the rotation easier, and allows the engagement of 1st with out the click.

third, that vibration is the clutch. it's on it's way out the door. change it as soon as you get it. install a complete new clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch plate, release bearing), even inspect the pilot bushing. heck, just replace it, it's only a couple of bucks.

and don't forget to get the flywheel machined! sorry, but everyone (well, 99% of the people) cheaps out on this part. it's critical for a new clutch plate to work in properly.

if you can swing it for around th 2500 mark, with only the clutch being an issue, i'd say it sounds like an ok deal, but stil kinda high (for m area anyways) with no power options. but each market is different.


GL, & welcome to the show, btw.

 
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