I ran across a guy saying 'Linseed Oil' to inhibit rust on another thread.

Got me thinking.. it's that time of years again and I got 2 babes on wheels I'd like to see maintain some dignity.

I know for a fact Linseed oil works to some extent so I did a search.

Here's a pretty good article on a cyclist forum
Rust prevention: A test of popular treatments

Too bad the guy never finished posting the results but I believe him

 

So you'd just spray corrosion block on the bottoms of the doors?

 

The only thing I know about linseed oil is that it was the ONLY thing we were allowed to apply to the metal on the boiler gage glass years ago while I was in the Navy. Keep in mind, the temp on the metal was about 500 degrees F. No high temp aluminum paint was allowed for some reason. The sole reason for oiling the gage glass was to prevent rust in an enviroment that was always above 100 degrees F with humidity above 70%. Never had a single one of them rust.

 

Hmm I wonder about mixing linseed oil with body armor, bed liner, rocker guard etc.
Many have that on their rockers etc but the oil concept would make it tend to not adhere - too bad.
Some company should make it work so you can inhibit rust with the oil & protect rockers etc with the liner material.
Think of what that could do just for the frames of our vehicles. Knowing the rust is kept at bay/inhibited with the linseed & protected with the liner material.

 

Reason for linseed oil is it soaks in and is temporary, after a few months it 'disappears' thus no mess. Reapply is the answer
And I want something of that consistency to be able to spray into doors and tail gate without huge mess.
- If Corrosion Block works that well and applies like Linseed, that's how I'm going
Corrosion Block - Corrosion Protection and Rust Prevention

Late breaking! I did a search to find Corrosion Block in liquid form as the aerosol can is gonna be more expensive. Lo and behold, a product from my past showed up in a review for salt water marine protection
CRC !!
http://www.thehulltruth.com/sportfis...or-sprays.html


- They tested CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor as seen here:
http://www.myboatstore.com/corrosion_inhibitor.asp

Two things:
I'm interested in protecting already rusted places from rusting further.. most of these tests dont address that. So I think I'm going with CRC 6-56 instead.

I was already considering using wd 40 for it's penetrating and water displacement properties
-Note WD 40 is NOT a penetrating oil to free rusty bolts, it sucks at that. On that basis I wondered if PB Blaster might work to prevent rust growth.
- I know about CRC because I used to use it in my electronics career.. for a lot of things, just like we use wd 40 in cars. I know it penetrates. I know it displaces water. And I know it prevents corrosion on copper.So based on the that last test, and against what Corrosion Block claimed {it would meet my reqs if it worked that well} and finding that CRC protects even better against salt water on fresh metal. AND it's cheap, so CRC looks like the best way to go.

Amazon.com: CRC 6008 6-56 Multi-Purpose Lubricant, 1 Gal: Automotive


What I've seen over the years since the sixties was that you are FAR better off, long term, not 'coating' anything.

Anything that hardens makes it worse. Salt gets underneath the coating {it cracks} and stays.

Ziebart makes great sense.. until you run across the first guy on a wrenching forum who encounters it. Makes a real mess on everything. I hate it. And it doesnt always work.

 

So are you saying that CRC would be the way to go for already rusted spots? My poor blazer is being eaten away faster than I can save up the money to fix it.

 

I feel ya. Yep, that's what I'm going for and why I'm making the choices I do.

I dont know if it's going to be effective, but the first rule.. cause no harm.. means I SURE aint putting any kind of coating on it.

My Brava has low to moderate rust, my 93 Bird has almost none. At least that I can see.

I've found the best way to bring out that rust you cant see is to put a coating on it.

 

i just cleaned the doors with a wire wheel and put bed liner on them.

 

I just spray 'em with used motor oil. I don't care what it looks like.

But I'll tell you the very best corrosion resistant product in a can is called LPS-3. There's nothing better. Spray it on liquid, & it semi-hardens to a wax-like substance. Claims to prevent rust for 2 years ... and in my experience, I buy that. I use it on my coal stove which sits in my wet basement all summer. For those that don't know, when you mix moisture with coal ash you get sulfuric acid - a bit more corrosive than salt. If it works on that, it'll work on anything.

The only catch is, it's mega expensive. Would be cheaper to buy it in non-aerosol form & fill up a pump bottle with it. The cans are convenient, but pricey. But like the saying goes - you get what you pay for.

$1.57 per ounce by can, or .66 cents per ounce by 1 gallon container:

International Distributor: LPS Labs, MRO Solutions, Lubricants, Penetrants

http://www.amazon.com/Laboratories-0...9412857&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/03128-Heavy-du...9412857&sr=8-3