Are different rims for the front and back a thing? Is is only for 2wd versions? I've never heard of this. I've not seen such labels on my rims for my 4wd Blazer but I also haven't looked.

 

So I finally wired up my circuit for overriding the DRL and Auto-Headlights on my 1999 Blazer. Although some Blazers can have this feature overridden by pressing the Dome Override switch multiple times it does not work on mine which I suspect is because it was delivered to Canada where DRL has been mandatory since the mid 90s.

The single white wire taps into the retained accessory power (RAP) tap I created for another use and I'm using a fog-light switch from a Pontiac to trip the flip-flop relay that controls the other three relays that interrupt the signals from the body control module (BCM) that control the DRL and Headlamp relays.

I'll be splicing into the wires that go to the BCM with the grey covered wires. When done, I'll be able to remove the system and restore the stock operation.

When I get around to installing and testing it, I'll do a proper writeup with wiring schematics from the GM manual and what I created.

In the process I've learned ALL about the types of connectors used on our Blazers. My goal was a clean install.

According to what I've puzzled out, when the system is engaged, the exterior lights will be all manual with the following settings:

• Park Lamps only
• Park Lamps and Fog Lamps
• Park Lamps and Headlamps on Low
• Park Lamps and Headlamps on Low with Fog Lamps.
• Park Lamps and Headlamps on High

I don't think I'll be able to have the Park Lamps, Headlamps, and Fog lamps though.

 

Where did the relay holder come from? I'm trying to educate myself on relays and finding out that I'm an idiot in the process. I'm wanting to make up a fan controller for my project using relays triggered by an 0411 ECM to replace the black box in my 98 S10. I could just hook up some heavy duty toggle switches straight to the battery but where's the fun in that? I've noticed on the relays that there are some with wide blades and some have thinner blades, what's up with that?

 

I purchased my relays and the supplies for the relays, the relay box, and the GM style connectors (Metri-Pack 150) from Del-City and Terminal Supply. The flip-flop relay came from eBay as did the fog-light button and pigtail for it. My relays are going under the instrument panel but if you want to install any in the engine compartment, you'll want to have connectors and relays that are at least weather/moisture resistant.

As for places to install the relays, I've seen relays nicely mounted to the top lip of the engine compartment firewall. You can either get a nice box for them all or you can, for the Bosch style, get the relays with their own mounting flange.

Regarding the relays with different terminal sizes, I've been able to infer that they will have different sizes depending on their maximum current rating.

The most common automotive relays are the "Bosch" style that have control-coil voltages of 12V-14V and ratings up to 40 amps for the switched part. These have 0.250" wide terminals. By mistake I purchased a relay rated at 60 or 80 amps and it had wider terminal blades

This was a useful website for me: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html

 

Well, long story short, replaced the tailgate lock... and then the strikers because my son wasn't thinking clearly. Now he can't find the outer handle for the rear glass. (has the inner parts)
Anyone happen to know the best place to pick up a replacement handle/latch for the rear glass on an '85 Chevy S10 4x4 Blazer?

 

Got it towed to the mechanic... unfortunately I dont have the time to do it, and I can pay him in payments, so it makes it more affordable. Once back on the road, i get to budget for front suspension parts.

 

Well, never mind where to get a replacement handle/latch for the rear glass on an '85 Chevy S10 4x4 Blazer. My son tried to 'cheat' with a steel plate and nuts for the latch and shattered the glass. So, we ended up heading to the salvage yard. Luckily we were able to pick up a new glass (handle included) for $50. We installed it right in the parking lot to be on the safe side.

 

Sorry but also kinda funny, Could not find the latch then breaking glass you find glass with latch too. Don't feel too bad tho, years back I busted the rear window in wife's Caravan. Was attempting to remove the rear wiper motor assembly due to motor being bad. Was at her mothers and inside the house they heard the shatter noise. So bad and what's worse when the glass shop came to fix it they put the bad motor back in place. Never did fix it and just pulled the fuse and told her she's S.O.L.

 

I felt horrible for my son. Our budget is really tight right now and when he came in to tell me what had happened he looked like he wanted to throw up and cry at the same time. All I could do was tell him we'd just have to deal with it. We've all made those little mistakes that we regret but can't do anything about. I think I'd have left the bad wiper motor as well.

 

Original trim panel was a mess .... something corrosive got spilled on it and I couldn’t figure out how to strip it down.
Its aluminum, but coated.
And there aren’t any replacements ... ooops.
A 3M sanding pad followed with 1000 and 1500 plenty wet and I got about 45 of 46 years of wear and tear out of it.
Shot some color tinted clear coat on it.
Oh and I did start laying out the carpet.