Going on today.

 

I noticed that the hat doesnt have the o-ring on the inside. How has it been working?

 

Well if you get the doors not as hard you may think to swap. Grab a buddy if you can ( I know virus thing make that rather difficult) and a floor jack and new hinge pins with bushing but the key is get a cheap spring tool for the door spring. Worth every cent and if I recall I got one was under 10$ at O'rilleys.

To prior comment about my new toy golf cart Blazen-, those rims might fit but you would not want them on any fast vehicle because no way rated for high speeds, I'd say 35mph tops. I can confirm that several stock GM rims do fit if you get proper offset. The ones in that photo are 215/35r14 called backlash, directional rotation tire. They are sold as a mounted pairing so clueless if you could even get the rim without the tire. They are made for golfcarts and similar things.

 

It's actually been working really well.

Side note: I've actually been through it and back again with this "hat" on this truck. Didn't even really want the truck for awhile. And now, magically, with that new piece you see pictured... it is like a new truck. All it took was one full minute of positioning the metal bracket into place (I see how it sits when I really looked at it and gave it 100% of my attention,) then taking the top of the screw that came with it and putting it on the screw that was already in the one I had (it was taller...) now it is *secured* and man it runs like a dream. Put at least 200 miles on it in the last two days...

I suppose I may hear the slightest of whistles/whirrs that COULD be a vacuum leak when it is cold, but it sounds more like a supercharger whine if I use my imagination than even that, it also goes away. I am happy where I dont have to fool with it anymore
And it has not stalled at a light since
Because it is on there right now
And I made a cheap SRI
And cleaned it
And it is really running.. very very well.

Normally, I post video. It running so well that I haven't. Just been enjoying driving it. Next up: Cruise control (watch it be something really dumb like that overhead interior light. Makes no sense. I also can post about ABS module.. I don't go to the first mechanic anymore so. That is my next project) and then the door (months from now probably on professional body shop just doing whatever they do to make it look like it never happened) and it's fine... And I STILL have a place I can check. They are in NYC and closed due to the virus.

Is it possible the O-ring is there, it is just dirty?
EDIT: I could maybe try to put the K&N O-ring in there, but.. It runs fine?

I also did clean the filter since this pic was taken. Took it that day, cleaned it this morning.. Been enjoying the sporty feel, I may notice freer revs, unless that too is all in my head. (Went for the SRI. Seemed simple enough to do.)

 

Nope, O ring is missing in the photo. Only real issue would be air seeping past is not even getting filtered alone may effect the maf sensor but as you noted so little its negligible. Check forum on your cruise, mine was a defective module on the firewall, rather a pain to get to the screws out but darn cheap easy to find a boneyard replacement for. Forum has a good posting on step by step voltage checks to help diagnose if issue is the module, in turn signal stalk or in brake pedal switch underneath. You just do all the probing at the module connector at firewall under hood and look at results. As for boneyard- you pick and pull, should be under 40$. Bargain with them if they ask for more, most those parts now are like 20 years old. Just look in glove box for the code for cruise, saves a lot of searching at boneyard. No clue on the ABS, never had issue with mine yet to dig into it.

 

Yeah I am inclined to leave the Hat alone now, I wonder if that O-ring is even replaceable or if it means getting a new hat, or if it seems to be the part on the "lip" maybe the one from the K&N will fit.. if I even fool with it. I got it working great,... as to the ABS, that has been on since I bought the truck and I may have to track that down too.

 

Looks great! What kind of IAT’s are you getting?

 

Is that something I can measure with Torque Lite?

Should I put the factory airbox back on?

 

Maybe modify it to fit the cap back on, and make the intake hole in the rad a little bigger, could get some results....

 

For now, I put the factory setup back on.

It does NOT move by hand now.


^edit: After a nice long drive, it now idles and runs better than even this. I think I will leave it like this.