Did not do anything to it today, and wont until Saturday.
Saturday, I am going to pull off the door panels (both from and rear doors and put some sound deadening, and a couple strips of half inch thick sticky back foam from menards, to stop rattle, and also going to do this on the panel for the tail gate. that will stop the door panels from rattling and vibrating, then it will be onto the other interior panels


with that being said, how the heck am I supposed to un-bolt the seat belts? is there a special torx bit for this?

 

Yeah it's a big a** torx, mine was a T50 but I'm not sure if it would be different for yours though. I found mine at autozone.

 

Today I treated my '98 Jimmy to a remanufactured alternator from NAPA. Really, in some ways, it was a treat for me.

 

rich,just a huge *** torx. When i had mine out it was torqued in!

 

God where do I start?
I got this boat anchor several weeks ago when I traded a 9Hp snow thrower for it. I needed a "dependable" 4 x 4 as my old truck was on it's last leg and thought I was getting a pretty good deal for a snow blower I got for free and didn't need. The guy I got it from bought it and couldn't get it inspected and didn't have the money to fix it ( so he said ) The body is in good shape, no rust, rot or dents .. a couple of minor scratches though the rear bumper has rot holes.
Anyways it's mine now and I inherited all of the typical Blazer headaches that go with it.
The guy who swapped with me told he he had done a bunch of work ( who hasn't heard that before? ) and had taken it down to be inspected and it did not pass emissions because the air pump was locked up. He included the new one he bought and when I asked why he hadn't installed it and tried again he told me he found a couple other issues and didn't have the money.
I replaced the pump, cleared the code took it down to get the reject sticker and see what else it needed so at least I could hopefully drive it around enough to check to see if that code came back and if there were any other codes or issues.
Well I found it needed .. inner tie rod ends, idler arm, has the fuel gauge issue, heater flapper is non functional, bad cell in the battery, intermittent service 4 wheel drive light issue, bad rear universal joint and a broken tranny mount.
I fixed the u-joint, tie rod ends, idler arm, battery and 4-wheel drive service light issues myself ( $136.75). Had the code checked out and replaced the solenoid and shut off valve ( $99.98 ) and replaced all the vac lines ( $16.35 ). I had a shop replace the tranny mount ( $ $52.39 ) as the bolts were so rusted I couldn't get them out lying on my back under the car. I still have illumination issues with the radio/cd player ( another thread ) and 4 x 4 switch; but I'm slowly getting this thing straightened out.
While cleaning out this beast I found a receipt for the rebuilt motor the owner before him put in it three years ago and found it only has 37,478 miles on it; not the 193k on the odometer, so looks like I lucked out.
I've got a little over $300 invested in this vehicle, it's running and inspected but after reading many post on this forum I'm hesitating on keeping it and waiting on the next headache or passing it along to someone else and letting them deal with it.

 

So,my battery is most likely bad. Accidentally left my headlights on while installing my column and now she wont hold a charge. Dropped it off at advance so they can charge it. it tested bad,but you never know. The battery (everstart maxx) had a paper slip on the side that had "purchased 10-2-2002"....10 year old battery. cool

 

put the reindeer antlers and red nose on.

 

Put 3' inch blocks on the rear of my 81 K5, let me tell you, getting those 32yr old bolts off took a 3 foot pipe on a craftsman socket wrench and wore me out. Ive never seen anything that tough to take off, end results were worth it, looks good and rides good. Tomorrow front shackles

 

if you don't want headache, you choose wrong truck. But if you are the typical DIY guy, this trucks are really funny. Mine also have a lot of issues, and a friend of mine told me his father also owns one, he drove it one week, next one the repair, and so on.

but, like my father syas, car ar like children, they suck all you money in fel and repairs... the main difference is you can sold you car totally legal (applicable to USA and mine country)

good luck!

 

Hi Roberto,
Yes I am a DIY guy, have been all my life ( early 60's now ) I do mostly all my own repair work and I'm not afraid to tackle mostly anything. I rebuild and repair vintage motorcycles as a hobby so repairing my vehicles isn't a daunting task to me. However after reading about how poorly these Blazers have been designed, all of the know issues and seeing how many people have basically the same problems over and over again, keeping this vehicle may not be a very prudent decision on my part money wise. Here in cold country where i live you need to have a vehicle that will get you from point A to point B without breaking down or requiring visits to a shop on a regular basis. Country roads are not the place to break down at night or any time for that matter, especially in winter months. From what I have read, these vehicles have a poor history, but we'll give it a chance to prove itself worthy.