what have you gotten done on your blazer today?
Starting Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1
From: Fox Valley Wisconsin
Straightened rear bumper, Gas Tank & Lines, Ball Joints & Axle, Headers, Polish Rims
Sorry this gets long winded, but that voice in the back of your head keeps saying "fix it while you have it apart" or you'll just have to do it again.
Had to get the Bow out of Bumper before painting, and found
Rear Wheel cylinder was Leaking, and This lead to replace rear Brake line & Wheel Cylinders, which also lead to Dropping the Gas tank to fix the fuel Lines that now were leaking trying to fix the brake line.
Dropping the gas Tank involved removing the Trailer Hitch, and here we are back to where I started with the bumper.
When I got tired of laying on my Back installing the Lines, I tore the front Disk Brakes off to check them, found a bad hose and a broken ABS sensor wire, oh and the CV Boots on Both Sides were bad, leaking Grease, Unbolted front axles and having a PIA to get them out, well I took a pry bar to check the ball Joints Uppers were not that bad but the Boots were shot and RH Lower was not good, now remove axle spindle, to get axle out and replace the Ball joints with Moog type.
Back to running lines and after cleaning up the Gas Tank & spraying with rustolium Aluminum, found Rear Gas Tank Frame bracket rusted through, chiseled out rivets, removed brace, cut out rust & welded in a fabricated piece. Drilled out rivet holes and installed Frame Bolts, and remounted Gas tank Support Brace.
Completed the Lines from Carb to Tank, and cut the GM Press Fittings of the Tank Hoses and Used a Compression fitting for the line with a ****** fitting for the Hose, had to remove shock to get room between the Tank and the Frame Rail to do the Final Line Compression connection.
That done Now completed the front Axle & Spindle install, Fixed caliper Hose and PNP ABS Sensor, Heated Bleeder screws and worked them loose so I can now bleed the lines.
Made my own brake Bleeder with a Hand held Vacuum tester and a Pickle Jar with spare Brake line and hoses, pickle jar cover would pop when I applied enough vacuum and I would open the Bleeder Screws starting from the farthest point and working back, it was kinda cool the jar cover would pop again when vacuum decreased, and I would shut the bleeder screw off, pump up jar & do it again.
That Done and Brake Unions Tightened up I now have no leaks in the Brake Line.
To Check the Fuel Line I turned the Key On and the electric Pump would run for 5 sec & shut off, did this multiple time and No Leaks - Yea.
I installed the shorty headers & fabbed up the exhaust, welding hanger brackets to exhaust and Clamps. Oh i replaced the TBI from my donor Truck, as the existing one was leaking and corroded, when I ran the lines.
The electrical connectors were mostly broken, I cut extra connectors from the PNP, and using a v.35 Pin Extraction Tool (Radio shack) and dental Picks, I replaced the broken connectors, without having to re-crimp on new pins.
Turned the Key and and engine would spin and not run, double checked for fuel leaks and none were found.
Engine would stumble but not run, pulled spark plug from each side and with the remote starter I had spark and the TBI was shooting a good cone spray on both sides.
The trunk was running good before I started all this so what now, I read on this site about the Oil Pressure and/or the Temp sensor could cause the no start Issue, used my vacuum tester in the ERG Valve and it was bad, replaced it with one from the donor truck and some extras I grabbed from the PNP.
Used Timing Light to Check the Timing and it would flash intermittently, I thought it was the Light itself, but i swapped out the Electronic Spark Control (ESC) Unit in the bottom of the distributor, and ITS Alive.
Finished setting the Timing (Disconnect the Brown/Black tracer Tac wire under the glove-box, and done. No Check engine light either.
Well This took a month and a half working every evening and weekends
I sprayed the Frame and other parts with rustolium semi-gloss black while I had all the lines and tank out.
Now to Figure out the ABS Light - there was no Bulb in the Dash socket when I had it out to seal up bare wire ends some one left hanging, after they removed the factory Alarm & Remote Starter.
The saga continues. Don't ya just love it.
Had to get the Bow out of Bumper before painting, and found
Rear Wheel cylinder was Leaking, and This lead to replace rear Brake line & Wheel Cylinders, which also lead to Dropping the Gas tank to fix the fuel Lines that now were leaking trying to fix the brake line.
Dropping the gas Tank involved removing the Trailer Hitch, and here we are back to where I started with the bumper.
When I got tired of laying on my Back installing the Lines, I tore the front Disk Brakes off to check them, found a bad hose and a broken ABS sensor wire, oh and the CV Boots on Both Sides were bad, leaking Grease, Unbolted front axles and having a PIA to get them out, well I took a pry bar to check the ball Joints Uppers were not that bad but the Boots were shot and RH Lower was not good, now remove axle spindle, to get axle out and replace the Ball joints with Moog type.
Back to running lines and after cleaning up the Gas Tank & spraying with rustolium Aluminum, found Rear Gas Tank Frame bracket rusted through, chiseled out rivets, removed brace, cut out rust & welded in a fabricated piece. Drilled out rivet holes and installed Frame Bolts, and remounted Gas tank Support Brace.
Completed the Lines from Carb to Tank, and cut the GM Press Fittings of the Tank Hoses and Used a Compression fitting for the line with a ****** fitting for the Hose, had to remove shock to get room between the Tank and the Frame Rail to do the Final Line Compression connection.
That done Now completed the front Axle & Spindle install, Fixed caliper Hose and PNP ABS Sensor, Heated Bleeder screws and worked them loose so I can now bleed the lines.
Made my own brake Bleeder with a Hand held Vacuum tester and a Pickle Jar with spare Brake line and hoses, pickle jar cover would pop when I applied enough vacuum and I would open the Bleeder Screws starting from the farthest point and working back, it was kinda cool the jar cover would pop again when vacuum decreased, and I would shut the bleeder screw off, pump up jar & do it again.
That Done and Brake Unions Tightened up I now have no leaks in the Brake Line.
To Check the Fuel Line I turned the Key On and the electric Pump would run for 5 sec & shut off, did this multiple time and No Leaks - Yea.
I installed the shorty headers & fabbed up the exhaust, welding hanger brackets to exhaust and Clamps. Oh i replaced the TBI from my donor Truck, as the existing one was leaking and corroded, when I ran the lines.
The electrical connectors were mostly broken, I cut extra connectors from the PNP, and using a v.35 Pin Extraction Tool (Radio shack) and dental Picks, I replaced the broken connectors, without having to re-crimp on new pins.
Turned the Key and and engine would spin and not run, double checked for fuel leaks and none were found.
Engine would stumble but not run, pulled spark plug from each side and with the remote starter I had spark and the TBI was shooting a good cone spray on both sides.
The trunk was running good before I started all this so what now, I read on this site about the Oil Pressure and/or the Temp sensor could cause the no start Issue, used my vacuum tester in the ERG Valve and it was bad, replaced it with one from the donor truck and some extras I grabbed from the PNP.
Used Timing Light to Check the Timing and it would flash intermittently, I thought it was the Light itself, but i swapped out the Electronic Spark Control (ESC) Unit in the bottom of the distributor, and ITS Alive.
Finished setting the Timing (Disconnect the Brown/Black tracer Tac wire under the glove-box, and done. No Check engine light either.
Well This took a month and a half working every evening and weekends
I sprayed the Frame and other parts with rustolium semi-gloss black while I had all the lines and tank out.
Now to Figure out the ABS Light - there was no Bulb in the Dash socket when I had it out to seal up bare wire ends some one left hanging, after they removed the factory Alarm & Remote Starter.
The saga continues. Don't ya just love it.
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,279
From: Port huron,Mi
Today I got off my lazy butt and finshed dismantling the front part of the engine so that I can take off the valve covers.Good news was I didnt have to remove as much stuff as I 1st thought.Next is to unbolt the valve covers so I can start adjusting the rockers.
Beginning Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 34
From: Norfolk, Va
A full roller rocker will have the roller at the trunion (center where it bolts/attaches) and at the tip for the valve.
Not only does google have the answer (I've read several of them) it can tell what P/Ns you need to upgrade to a full roller rocker, and how to adjust them.
New Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 57
From: Crowley, LA
routine maintenance
changed my oil today. took the valvoline maxlife out and put in some royal purple and a k and n oil filter. running smoother than it was, so i'm sure it was time for an oil change. even though it was neither 3 months, or 3000 miles.... went ahead and changed the fuel filter too. its starting better, and started running even smoother than with just the oil change. 
