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General ChatChat about all things Blazer (and related vehicles). Off-topic stuff should be in the lounge, and all mechanical problems should be posted in the proper forum.
This drain happens to a new battery. I do believe there is some kind of drain on the battery but I really don't have the meters or the experience to chase it down.
I do have a multimeter but I'll have to look at it tomorrow to see what it's rated for. I'll check and try to get back with you tomorrow.
Thank you
Afternoon George,
Sorry it took me awhile to get back with ya. I got tires today at Sams club and they checked the battery while they were installing the tires.
Here is the reading...
I'm willing to learn how to check this stuff but tonight I'm not going to be able to do anything. Spending a little time with the Wife.
I'll get my multimeter out and send a photo of that next. It's just a standard meter, I don't know i it will do what you're wanting...
Thank you very much for the help.
Have a nice evening!
Graveyard
Afternoon George,
I have a friend that has an Amp Clamp. I will probably get it Monday, I work with him.
He explained to me how it works. That sounds like exactly what I need.
Have a great weekend
Later,
Graveyard
Btw, my name is Greg. I appreciate the help
Test 1 will be starting the vehicle and running every system then closing everything up and off, waiting the required amount of time to be certain that all the modules (BCM, ECM, IP cluster, ...) have gone to sleep (15 min) and then measuring the current draw in the battery positive or negative wire. If it is excessive (> 25 - 85 ma depending on the info source) , you pull fuses until the draw goes away. There is an alternate method of checking the voltage across every fuse but either way the first step is the same. The clamp meter has to have good resolution down in the sub 100ma range to do it this way otherwise if you have an ammeter with a 10a limit then we can do it more accurately with that meter. Its worth 2 minutes with the clamp meter because if the draw is sky high then you will see it right away.
George
Last edited by GeorgeLG; Jan 21, 2022 at 05:40 PM.
Sweet, I'm looking forward to getting this issue resolved. Hopeully Monday will be a little warmer around here...it's freaking bone chilling here in Ky.
Later
I forgot to mention that you cant open the drivers door to check the ip fuse block or the truck will wake up so you have to clamp the switch plunger shut so you can leave the door open when you get the truck to go tom sleep. Also, make sure that there is no functioning under hood bulb.
Morning George,
I've been looking at Amp clamp meters...most of what I'm seeing is 400 amp ac or DC voltage, not amps. Or is that the same thing?
I haven't asked my friend about his yet but he got it at Lowes so it may not do DC amps after all...
Later
Expensive Clamp meters can do AC volts, AC amps, DC volts, DC amps and/or DC milliamps. Some less expensive meters cannot do DC. What you need is the ability to measure DC milliamps which the cheapest Lowes clamp meter cannot do. A meter that can looks like this (the setting right next to off):
If you do not have this then we need a digital multimeter with 10A DC current (amperage) measuring capability like this (scale at 6 o'clock and 10A protected input on left):
And if you go the second route then we need a way to get the meter probes inline with the battery post and disconnected cable because it needs to stay hooked up during the tests.