Okay, i'm tired of splitting everything up into separate posts and annoying the crap out of everyone. . . Someone just tell me the cheapest/easiest way for me to squeeze some 31's under my blazer without them rubbing.... I need to do this quick, fast, and in a hurry.... so all help is greatly appreciated. . I can't spend enough money to buy a $600 lift kit and I can't pay someone to body lift it, nor do I have the tools or time to do so myself. . . So I really really really need to know how I can do this for cheap. . . I don't care if a quick fix will eventually wear things out, because in 3 years, i'm retiring the blazer and buying a pickup.... after that the blazer will be my project truck. .. thanks in advance for all of your help, and if I get some good responses, i'll stop posting questions about lifting it. .

 

Maybe I could just crank the t-bars an inch or so to level the truck out, and run 30x9.50 mt's on it... would that make it reasonably aggressive looking and improve its off-road abilities?

 

Ok, chill man...

Yes you can crank the t-bars a maximum of 2" and then purchase a set of 2" shakles to compensate for the rear. That would be your "Cheapest" method. But as you have acknowledged there will be wear on the front suspension parts and a hard ride. So that is that your question is answered. And no I am not a fan of lifting vehicles just to put on bigger tires.

 

I think im gonna crank them just enough to level the truck out and give me a bit more front end clearance. . . thanks for your help.... im good to go now..lol kinda spazzed out for a sec.... my bad. . . also im considering wheel spacers for the rear to give the truck a more even wheel track..... the rear trac is 2.2 inches more narrow than the front stock, and its startin to get to me.. haha would 2 inch spacers be a good idea?

 

In My Honest Opinion. Put on the 30" tires.

You will gain 1/2" ground clearance to run 31" tires. Plus the cost of a body lift, or suspension lift, or the cost of replaceing worn out suspension, steering, and driveline parts. Besides no body lift, or suspension lift will increase the flex of the stock IFS suspension, your not gaining anything with a 2" lift. Except to fit 31" tires which only offer a 1/2" more ground clearance, and do nothing to improve traction or flex compared to the 30" tires.

The cheapest route, install the 30" tires and be done with it. 31" aren't going to make that much of a difference, especially off-roading. You would be far better off installing a rear locker with the money you were going to use for a 2" lift. The locker will get you more places then 1/2" of ground clearance ever would.

Spend the money in the right places.
Aggressive tires, even in stock size.
Rear locker.
Your truck will be more capable then most stock rigs out there. Almost as capable as a Jeep Rubicon. And with the right drivers and terrain, you could put a Rubicon to shame.


Let's put that 1/2" in perspective. Lay your fingers flat on teh desk. There you go, 1/2". That is the extend of ground clearnace you gain between 30" and 31" tires. You honestly think that is going to make that much difference?

 

My blazer already has an automatic locking rear differential. . is it possible to make my independent front suspension a locker? if so how expensive is it?

 

OK I have a question about the rear locker?? I just bought my 92 Blazer 4.3 vortec 4x4. The previous owner installed a real locker. But what does it do? When and How should i use it?

 

I will try to field both of your questions at once.

Lets start with the rear end first. Is this the facory installed locker? If so, its a limited slip. That means you have to have the wheels spinning in order for the locker to engage and make the other tire turn. The faster the wheel spins the more it engages and the more equally both rear tires will spin. This is ok (small letters, as in marginally a locker). If you had even a lunch box locker (fits insdie the rear carrier) like an Ausie locker. Then you wont need to lose traction for the locker to engage, its always engaged. In other words the difference between the factory limited slip and the Aussie locker is that the factory locker wil only engage once you lose traction. While the Aussie locker wil always be engaged.

I know what your thinking, if its always engaged how does it allow the tires to spin at different rates in a turn. They must spin at different rates or the tires will scuff, and drag around corners. Simple with the Aussi and other lucnh box lockers the outside tire turns faster then the inside tire. The Aussie locker will allow both tires to turn independnetly, however they will alsway turn, even if one is in the air. They wil never turn slower the the engine, but one will turn faster in a turn. Make sense?


As for the front locker. Mixed reviews, juries still out, however you want to phrase it. Heres the deal, IF and that is a capitalized IF you can find a locker for your front axle you have several things to be carefull with. Our front differential is an aluminum housing, weak by design, it can withstand the forces of an open differential. But once you lock it up, its a time bomb waiting to go off. It will elxplode when your spinning the tires to gian traction and all of a sudden both tires grab instant traction. Like if you were in the grass and lite up your tires, managed to keep them spinning and drove onto the pavement with both tires at the same time. kapow.

With the open front diff, it can handle those forces. However you will more then likley ruin a cv axle. A cv axle is much easier and cheaper to fix then a broken front diff. As long as you keep that in mind when wheeling with a locked front diff, you can make it survive. But first you have to find a locker for the front diff.

 

Spacers on the back is okay for looks, but not the best for 'wheeling. The front and rear axles are different widths so that they don't follow the same track and cover more area for traction.